Lalit Gupta
In present times when heritage is seen as cultural, political and economic resource for the present, the lackluster status of Ambaran, near Akhnoor, speaks of neglect and utter failure of the State and Central Government to realize the full potential of one of the most significant Buddhist archaeological sites in entire North India.
When His Holiness the Dalai Lama, after visiting Akhnoor on Nov 9, 2011, had confirmed the findings of the experts that this Kushana period establishment was one of the earliest monasteries in J&K, Ambaran had shot into limelight, especially amongst the Buddhist World where people closely follow the statements of the most respected Tibetan spiritual leader.
It was expected that after such an international acceptance of the historicity of the place, the State and Central Governments would draw an immediate plan of action to develop Ambaran as an important destination in the Buddhist circuit of pilgrimage tourism that attracted both domestic as well as international tourists.
But unfortunately, the archeological site of Ambaran, which due to its unique historical importance especially in terms of development of Buddhism in Jammu that led to spread of Buddhism in Kashmir and from thereon to Central Asia, continues to receive the same run of the mill treatment that is meted by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) to its numerous protected monuments all over the country. In fact after more than 13 years since the site was first excavated, the unearthed remains of the foundations of stupas, monastic cells, still await a protective shed. With the result every year during the rainy season, heavy rains take toll of the fragile remnants of more than 2000 years old monastic complex as it is often flooded with water discharge from adjoining uphill slopes.
To add insult to the injury, the State ministry of Culture, which till recently was headed by a Buddhist minister who himself made many a visit to the site, also has shown utter lack of concern to formulate a comprehensive proposal and plan for international showcasing of Ambaran which has all the potentials of being listed as a world Heritage monument.
According to UNESCO guidelines, an archeological or cultural site can be listed as world heritage only when it fulfills criteria like representing a masterpiece of human creative genius; exhibit an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology, monumental arts, town-planning or landscape design; to bear a unique or at least exceptional testimony to a cultural tradition or to a civilization which is living or which has disappeared; to be an outstanding example of a type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates (a) significant stage(s) in human history; to be an outstanding example of a traditional human settlement, land- use, etc.
Ambaran more than qualifies the above criteria as it constitutes one of significant aspects of Buddhist religious history and culture of the Indian sub-continent and Central Asia. Monastic complex of Ambaran has established Jammu as one of the places of the introduction of Buddhism and its wholehearted adoption by the hill and highland communities during the early phases of Buddhism. The other significant aspect is the possibility that Buddhism was introduced in Jammu region much before it was carried on to the Kashmir valley by Majjhantika during king Ashoka’s reign. The great historic importance of outer Himalayan ranges and especially of Jammu find support in many references in ancient Buddhist Pali literature that some of the prominent disciples of the Buddha like—Mahakappina, Khema and Bhadda Kapilani hailed from Madradesha, the capital of which was modern day Sialkot, and an area contiguous to Jammu.
Till the year 2000, other than a few references in Jatakas (tales of previous births of Buddha), handful of Kushana coins, and the stray terracotta sculptures found from Akhnoor, there were hardly any concrete evidences to show the presence of Buddhism in Jammu region and its subsequent eclipse due to Huna invasion and also resurgence of Hinduism that followed after 7th-8th centuries.
The discovery of a Buddhist monastic complex on the right bank of river Chenab, at Ambaran, near Akhnoor and dateable from 1st century BCE to 4th-5th century CE, gave a strong physical proof of a vibrant Buddhist phase in Jammu. Such monastic complexes like Ambaran not only served as important transit stations for the iterant monks who were constant companions to the caravans of traders ferrying goods from the Indian mainland to Kashmir and further afield to the Central Asia, but also as centers for propagation of Dhamma amongst the local hill communities.
Present architectural remains at Ambaran were excavated during 1990-2001 by the Srinagar Circle of ASI under Dr B.R. Mani, the then Superintending Archaeologist, Srinagar Circle of ASI. The excavations established that the site was abandoned sometimes around 7th century CE, mainly due to flash floods in the river and decline of Buddhism in the area. The site of Ambaran revealed the cultural sequence of four periods starting from Pre-Kushana Period to 7th century CE. These include bases of stupas and votive stupas, and walls of a monastery and important antiquities including large number of decorative terracotta figurines, heads, moulds of leaves and ornaments.
The most significant find has been discovery of a Kushana period reliquary from the base of the excavated stupa. The relic casket with charred bones, suggested its conception as a Sharirika stupa (where body relics of great monk are kept in a casket). The contents of the reliquary comprised of circular thin sheets of gold, rimmed thin sheets of silver, cylindrical coral beads, metallic micro-beads. A circular gold casket, again in two equal parts was found already open inside the silver casket along with small pieces of charred bone and probably a minute part of tooth.
The discovery of such relics for the first time in entire J&K state has opened a new chapter in the study of history and culture of the region. The Akhnoor terracottas that came from the site of Ambaran, today are displayed in different museums of the world. These terracotta sculptures which include Buddha, Bodhisattvas, worshippers, princely figures, ascetics, children, animals, decorated walls of the monastic complex in the form of terracotta high relief sculptural panels.
In the year 2009, the scientific cleaning of the site at Ambaran, revealed another significant find that the foundation of eight spoke stupa which gave a further proof of a Kushana period construction, the likes of which have been found at Buddhist archaeological sites like Sanghol in Punjab and Nagarjunakonda in Andhra Pradesh.
The importance of Ambaran thus lies not only being the earliest recorded Buddhist site in the entire state of Jammu and Kashmir but as a religious center that also played an important role in the cultural and intellectual life in ancient India.
But regrettably, Ambaran’s legacy of the religious, historic and artistic richness of Jammu’s glorious past is yet to find its proper place in the cultural map of the country due to apathetic attitude of its official custodians. Until the civil society takes up a proactive stance and puts pressure on the concerned authorities in State and Central Ministries of Culture and Tourism and ASI to take up immediate steps for preservation as well as proper projection of our collective heritage, the archeological site of Ambaran is destined to suffer irreversible damage. If that is allowed to happen then a golden chapter of Buddhist history of Jammu and Kashmir and Central Asia would be consigned to labyrinth of obscurity forever.
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