Ravi Kumar
The Jammu region of J&K has a very rich tradition of crafts and artisan production. All districts of the region are equally efficient in the production of different crafts. Handicrafts are the substantial source of livelihood for the people of these areas. These arts and crafts showcase the creativity of the people producing them. Basically, the artisanal production was the only form of industrial production until the mill industries were established.
Samba, a small town about 40 kms from Jammu, on Jammu Pathankot highway is a well known centre of Calico printing also known as Block Printing. Printing in vegetable colour with help of wooden blocks on hand woven cotton cloth is being used as cool, comfortable, floor/bed coverings and are in great demand. Prints on bed sheets, quilt covers, table linen, cushion covers etc are made with the help of designed blocks with vegetable colors.
Handicrafts are the matchless appearance of our society and way of life. As the Handicrafts of a region represent, perhaps, the oldest tradition of a living culture, the diversity of Jammu region’s cultural tradition is aptly reflected in the tradition of handicrafts it produces.
Calico Printing enjoys a wide popularity. Masnads and Jamas, handblocked and printed by artisans of the area have been traditionally in great demand. The prints with their attractive floral and geometric colourful designs and fast colors have a ready market within the state and outside. The craft which passed through a phase of decline years immediately following partition has now been revived and the demand has again started picking up. Training centres set up by the Department of Handicrafts in district Samba are helping in providing additional skilled hands and in widening of the base of the craft with new designs being introduced alongside of traditional ones at the centres.
Samba has been the best known centre for hand printed textiles. It is popularly called as Chhintawala Shehar (city of printing). In olden ages, Samba was famous for its calico printing, mostly on handwoven cotton sheets, in soothing vegetables hues at a time when the printing industry in many other parts of India had not developed. Indigenous dyes used in Calico printing were Majith (Indian Red), Navtati (red), Haldi (Yellow) and Neel (Blue). Special Sonahri (golden) and Rupehri (silver) printing was also done at Samba by expert hands stepped in long years ago using real silver and gold leaves.
In hand block printing, the design is first drawn on wood using a sharp needle and then the desired design is carved using the chisel, hammer, file, nails etc. The printing involves laying the cloth/fabric, which is to be printed, on flat tables and impressions are made using the beautifully carved blocks. In case of direct printing, the block is dipped in the coloured dye and impressions are made. Traditionally natural and vegetable sources were used for dyes. But with the advent of synthetic dyes, things have changed, not necessarily for good. However the ease of usage and the availability of synthetic dyes have replaced the vegetable dye in many cases.
There is an interesting story recorded by D. N. Saraf in his book ”Arts and Crafts, Jammu and Kashmir: Land, People, Culture”, about the traditional chhimbas, sheet printers of Samba town, who were deft craftsmen. It is said that Maharaja Ranjit Singh wanted to start a textile printing industry in Amritsar, then the capital of Sikh Kingdom. When he approached some of master printers of Samba to shift to Amristar they were reluctant: one of the reasons (or perhaps excuse) they advanced was that if they were to move to Amritsar the pond called Bann, in their town, should also be taken to Amritsar as fastness of the colors of Samba prints, they held was due to the quality of water. Craftsmen have generally been stay-at-home people and thus managed to remain in Samba and carry on the industry.
Handicraft activities are playing its important role in the upliftment of weaker sections of rural economy of the state and also serve as tourism resource. In order to keep alive the art of Calico printing, the Department of Handicraft, J&K Government has set up training centres where trained instructors have been providing training to the youth so that they can connect themselves with the oldest handicraft of the area and to earn their livelihood.
The Department is providing wooden blocks from Firozabad (Uttar Pradesh) as they are famous for its quality with the approved designs from the Design Institute. Mainly five colors including black, blue, red, green and yellow are being used in printing.
The Department of Handicrafts is playing a important role in skill enhancement, design & printing consultancy, financial support, artisan welfare measures and organization of Expo, craft bazaars etc.
Women especially girls undergoing training at the centres have been enjoying learning the old skill of Calico printing which has its name since long. Right from preparing colors and till the final printing of designs with the help of wooden blocks, they seem very confident of carrying forward the old tradition of Samba.
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