Lalit Gupta
There is a hoary practice to celebrate religious festivals at sacred places. Be it a river or confluence of rivers, lakes, water bodies, temples on mountain tops or shrines in natural caves etc. Such journeys labeled as pilgrimages offer break from routine of everyday business of life and home and also opportunity to travel long distances. Peoples’ visits to such sites are often associated with miraculous capacities to grant boons, such as health, wealth, progeny, and deliverance after death etc. In Jammu and Kashmir, the pan-Indian practice of celebrating religious festivals at sacred sites scattered in every nook and corner is a commonplace fact of
the religious and spiritual life.
Holy Cave of Shiv Khori: The holy cave of Shiv Khori, due to its mythological association with Lord Shiva, is one such sacred spot which situated in the lap of Sanger hills of Ransoo area in Pouni block of the Reasi district, after Amarnath in Kashmir, the second holiest Shaiva cave in the State. Here on day of Maha Shivaratri, a three-day mela is held every year. Lakhs of pilgrims from various parts of the state and other destinations from other states come to visit the shrine for Shiva’s blessings. The devotees particularly consider this period holy for offering prayers and worshiping the natural lingam. Maha Shivaratri festival is to be held on 17 February this year.
Legend: According to popular legend, the origin of Shiv Khori is linked to Rakshasha Bhasmasur. It is said that Bhasmasur meditated Lord Shiva for a long period. Pleased with his devotion Lord decided to grant him a boon. Bhasmasur said “Lord, please grant me the boon that whichever person, place or thing I place my right hand on is reduced to ashes”. Lord Shiva granted him the boon. But the wicked Bhasmasur decided to test it on Lord Shiva so that he could marry goddess Parvati and thus win the universe. A battle between Lord Shiva and Bhasmasur took place at Ransoo which literally means a battle field. Lord Shiva along with Parvati entered the Shiv Khori cave and closed the cave from inside. Meanwhile, Lord Vishnu seeing Shiva’s plight, disguised himself as Goddess Parvati and appeared before Bhasmasur and offered to marry him provided he performs the dance to please Her. When Bhasmasur said that he did not how to dance, Parvati told him follow her dance steps. During the performance of dance Parvati put hand on her head and as soon as the foolish demon following her touched his head, he was reduced to ashes.
As per another oral tradition popular among local population, the Shiv Khori cave is believed to have been discovered by a Muslim shepherd who in search of his missing goat by chance went inside the cave. However, he was startled to see a number of saints inside the cave. Impressed by Lord Shiva’s divine power, he too developed respect for the spot. Later on, the shepherd disclosed the secret of the holy cave to other people in spite of his promise made with the saints not to tell anybody about the cave. According to the legends the cave has been a favorite spot for a number of famous saints who had spent decades inside this cave for spiritual attainment and meditation.
The Cave Shrine: Located in Ransoo, Shiv Khori, is 140 kilometers north of Jammu, 120 kilometers from Udhampur and 80 kilometers from Katra. Buses and light vehicles go up to Ransoo, the base camp of pilgrimage. People have to traverse about 3.5 km on foot on a track recently constructed by the Shri Shiv Khori Shrine Board.
This holy natural cave is about 300 meters long which is entered through 15 feet wide and 20 feet high opening. Pigeons are also seen perching at the entrance, here like the Swami Amar Nath cave, which presents good omen for pilgrims.
Beyond the entrance, where the samadhi of Mahant Ramesh Giri now greets the visitors, the cave becomes narrow and low and after few meters of curvaceous slit like path, which again opens up into a large chamber. To cross this narrow stretch one has to stoop low, crawl or adjust body sideward. There is deficiency of oxygen inside the cave. During heavy rush or from sheer excitement of the unique experience, some may feel a temporary sense of suffocation inside the cave. But with help of holds and grips in the rock walls, devotees develop a kind of rhythm of steps and cover this distance of few meters by concentrating on Lord Shiva and chanting Shiva Slogans.
One forgets all the hardship, after the reaching the large chamber, the sanctum sanctorum which is full of natural impressions, shapes and images of various Hindu deities. These include a naturally created large image of Lord Shiva. There are also images of Goddess Parvati, Ganesha, Kartikeya, Nandigan and other devtas in the shape of small Pindis. The cave roof is etched with large snake formations, from where the water trickles down and falls on the Shiva Lingam. There are other images held on the rock such as Om, Sheshnag etc. There are other idols of Mahakali, Saraswati and Pandavas also. These images are natural. The devotees enjoy the eternal peace. That is why Shivkhori is known as ‘Devlok’.
This big chamber also has a narrow passage going in one direction which is believed to be going led to Kashmir where Swami Amarnath ji cave is located. The passage is now closed as some Sadhus who dared to go forward on this way reportedly never returned.
Presently a special exit gate, similar to Shri Mata the Vaishno Devi cave, has been carved out created for the easy egress of devotees who are coming in large numbers.
Pilgrimage: The visitors proceed to Shiv Khori throughout the year but rush is noticed on full moon and other sacred days. Devotees visiting Shri Mata Vaishno from Punjab, Haryana, Delhi, U.P., MP, Bihar, Gujrat and Rajasthan etc., also make it a point to visit Shiv Khori Shrine. Local families from surrounding areas also come here to pay obeisance after a happy occasion like mundan or marriage ceremony. They often arrive in a procession and dance to the tunes of accompanying a band of musicians.
About 40 to 50 year ago, only a few people knew about the Shiv Khori shrine but it has gained much popularity during recent years. In earlier times, the number of yatris was just in thousands but after the constitution of Shiv Khori Shrine Board during December 2003, and Shiv Khori emerging as pilgrimage tourism destination, with many pilgrims to Shri Mata Vaishno Devi making it a point to visit, the number of devotees has multiplied and crossed more than six lakhs. This year it is expected to cross seven lakh tourists.
Keeping in view the increasing rush of pilgrims to holy cave shrine, the Shiv Khori Shrine Board has taken up a number of steps. These includes Shrine Guest House at village Ransoo, the base camp of yatra, Reception Centre and Pony shed, tile work of entire 3-km long track, plantation of ornamental and medicinal plants on track and development of parks etc. Other arrangements like electrification of the cave with modern techniques, provision of oxygen and electric generators, exhaust fans, construction of shelter sheds for yatris with toilet facilities near the cave site, shelter sheds en route Ransoo to the cave shrine, railing from the base camp to cave, additional facility of water reservoir, proper sanitation, provision of high power electric transformer, clock room, permanent bus services from Katra, Udhampur and Jammu, police post and Public Health Centre and mobile towers for easy communication are also stand completed.
Despite the good work already done under the patronage of SSKSB, there are certain aspects which need immediate attention. For instance the stones rolling down from overhanging rocks near the very entrance of Shiv Khori cave, which have already caused injuries to many pilgrims, pose a grave threat to the security of pilgrims along with police personal and employee of shrine boards stationed there. Furthermore Yatris while awaiting their turn to enter the holy cave, have to stand in open during rains and hot sun as there is no shed or covering.
On basis of firsthand experience, the dilapidated condition of stairs near the cave entrance, non functional toilet units, absence of regular medical assistance in case emergencies at the shrine, are some of the telling signs of lack of proper monitoring apparatus as well as continuous maintenance of facilities. With the result one finds non-functioning water points and street lights causing great inconvenience for the pilgrims.
It is hoped that very soon proper facilities on the lines of Shri Mata Vaishno Devi, will also be ensured round the clock at holy Shiv Khori, so that the pilgrimage to this second important Shaiva cave after Shri Aamrnath ji, becomes a much sought after sacred destination. The route from Jammu to Shiv Khori is full of picturesque and spots of religious importance. These include Agharjitto, Naupindian, Baba Dhansar, Reasi, Bhimgarh Fort, Baba Banda Bahadur and Siar Baba and thus making the pilgrimage to Shiv Khori as a memorable experience.
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