Ashok Sharma
The Dogras, known for their resilience, hard work and deep cultural roots, inhabit the picturesque region of Duggar. Primarily agrarian, they spend their days toiling on their farms from dawn to dusk, yet they never miss an opportunity to celebrate life. Whether it is a religious festival, a marriage, a birth anniversary or even a retirement ceremony, Dogras find joy in gathering together and sharing their traditions. One of the most cherished aspects of these celebrations is the grand feast known as ‘Taam’, a traditional meal prepared and served in a deeply ritualistic and community-driven manner.
Dogras live close to nature and hold her in great reverence. They rely on nature for their sustenance- drawing water from springs, using wood from trees as fuel and growing their own food. This harmony with nature extends to their culinary traditions as well. Every aspect of preparing and serving Taam reflects their values of respect, devotion and social unity.
Preparations for the Taam
The preparation for a Taam begins well in advance, involving the collective efforts of the entire community. The first task is gathering the necessary fuel for cooking, which consists of wooden logs. These logs, preferably from old and dried trees, are cut and split into smaller pieces called ‘Barnelian’ in the local parlance.But the trees which have dried as a result of lightening are not used to prepare Taam .These are carefully arranged in heaps to ensure they dry properly, allowing them to burn efficiently. This process is undertaken voluntarily by the village youth, showcasing the communal spirit that underpins Dogra culture.
A crucial figure in the preparation of the Taam is the ‘Sain’, a specialized cook who is highly respected for his skills in preparing traditional Dogra cuisine. The Sain is responsible for organizing the ingredients and overseeing the entire cooking process. Before beginning his work on the appointed day, he takes a bath as a ritual of purification. Wearing a Dhoti, he arrives at the designated cooking area, usually at dawn and does not wear shoes during the entire process as a mark of reverence.
To prepare the food, a long hearth known as ‘Daan’ is dug into the earth, where the wood is arranged for an even burn. In temples, devasthans and other shrines, permanent daans exist, as community feasts, or ‘Bhandaras’, are held frequently throughout the year at such places. Before beginning to cook, the Sain and the elder of the family offer a portion of grains, pulsesand jaggery (Gur) to the deity as an offering, seeking blessings for the feast. Local youth assist the Sain by chopping vegetables, peeling onions and cleaning rice and pulses.
Traditional Dogra Taam Delicacies
The Taam menu consists of a variety of delicious dishes that are unique to the Dogra community. These are prepared with minimal oil and spices, allowing the natural flavours of the ingredients to shine. The dishes are cooked in ‘Saglas’, which are large copper vessels, over a slow flame, giving them a distinct taste and aroma.
Some of the staple dishes prepared in a Dogra Taam include:
Rajma (Kidney Beans)- A rich and flavourful preparation of kidney beans cooked with mild spices.
Chana Dal (Split Bengal Gram Lentils)- A simple yet hearty dish that complements rice beautifully.
Sholey Dal (Spicy Lentil Preparation)- A protein-rich dish that adds variety to the meal.
Maan ka Madra (Black Gram Curry)- A thick and creamy dish made from black gram lentils.
Ambal (Sweet & Sour Pumpkin Curry)- A unique delicacy that balances sweetness and tanginess.
Mixed Vegetable – A nutritious dish made with a medley of fresh vegetables.
Sweetened Rice (Mitha Putt)- A traditional dessert made with rice, jaggery and dry fruits.
Kauri Rooti- A special dish prepared with a spoonful of melted desi ghee, often served a few days after the passing of an elderly family member.It is cooked without using turmeric or other spices.
On some grander occasions like ‘chop’ ( lunch one day after groom’s marriage)additional dishes such as Pathores(deep-fried bread), Poories and Khamires(fermented bread) are also prepared. These dishes are also prepared on the occasion of Char- Barsi( 4th Death Anniversary of an elderly Hindu).The meals, once ready, are first offered to God and the Kuldevta(family deity) before being served to the attendees.
The Ritual of Serving the Taam
One of the most fascinating aspects of the Taam is the way it is served. The food is distributed with great discipline and respect, maintaining traditional customs that have been followed for generations.
Attire and Cleanliness:
Those who serve the food, usually the younger men of the family or volunteers, are required to wear Dhotis and remain barefooted, just like the Sain. This is done to maintain the sanctity of the meal.
Biodegradable Serving Plates:
The food is served on eco-friendly, biodegradable leaf plates known as ‘Doona Pattal’. These are made from dried leaves and stitched together with small wooden/ grassysticks, reflecting the Dogra community’s deep respect for nature.
Seating Arrangement:
Unlike modern buffets, where people eat standing, in a Taam, all guests sit in rows on mats, ensuring a communal dining experience. This seating arrangement promotes equality and togetherness.
Order of Serving:
The food is served in a specific order, beginning with rice, followed by Rajma, Chana Dal, Ambal and other dishes. The sweet dish, Mitha Putt, is served at the end as a mark of completion.
Respect for the Meal:
It is considered improper to waste food at a Dham. Guests are encouraged to take only as much as they can eat.
Special Occasions & Customs:
At a wedding reception (Barat kiTaam), the guests (Baratis) are offered Saunf (fennel seeds) or sweets after the meal as a mark of hospitality.
In some cases, family members are allowed to take portions of the food home, especially close relatives of the host family.The food so gifted is called ‘Mandla’.
Social and Cultural Significance of Dogra Taam
Dogra Taam is not just about food; it represents the collective spirit and social harmony of the Dogra people. Every stage, from gathering firewood to serving food, is managed jointly by the community. This reinforces the bond between neighbours, friends and extended family members.
The children and younger generation learn the values of teamwork, respect for elders, and the importance of cultural traditions through these events. It is a way of passing down ancestral wisdom, ensuring that Dogra customs remain alive for future generations.
Even the Sain, the cook, is honoured for his contribution. At the end of the event, he is gifted clothes, money and a portion of the food/ sweets to take home for his family. This reflects the respect and gratitude the Dogras have for those who contribute to their community’s well-being.
Conclusion
The Dogra Taam is a perfect example of how food, tradition and community come together to create a meaningful experience. It is a celebration of not just special occasions but of life itself. Every element of this feast, from the choice of ingredients to the rituals of serving, reflects the values of purity, simplicity and togetherness.
Even as modernization influences food habits and social structures, the tradition of the Dogra Taam continues to hold a special place in the hearts of the people. It is more than just a meal-it is a cherished cultural heritage, a symbol of unity and a reminder of the deep-rooted traditions that define the Dogra way of life.
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