Lalit Gupta
Pilgrimages have been part of our mystic tradition since hoary past. According to Holy Scriptures life is a journey and a pilgrimage is merely an external projection of an inward journey. Going on a pilgrimage is considered not only auspicious (for it is believed to cleanse one’s sins) but it can also be reinvigorating to the mind. It lets us purge the monotony generated by our humdrum existence so we can begin life afresh.
Jammu and Kashmir abounds in such places of pilgrimages where a manifestation of divinity appeared for a particular purpose, where a sage performed austerities or meditated for a long period, or where someone got direct experience of God.
Associated with Lord Shiva, the holy cave of Amarnath is one such ancient pilgrimage, which has been drawing devotees since 5000 years. Surrounded by snowy mountains, the cave itself is covered with snow most time of the year except for a short period of time in summer when it is open for pilgrims. Situated at an altitude of 12,756 ft, the holy cave is about 360 km from Jammu and 141 km from Srinagar and reached through Pahalgam town.
Myths & Legends
According to Nilmata Purana and Amarnath Mahatmya, it was in holy cave of Amaranth that Lord Shiva narrated the tale of immortality to Parvati, which could grant immortality to any living being who heard it. Before revealing the truth about immortality, Lord Siva as a preparation left his ‘vahana’-vehicle Nandi, the bull, in Pahalgam (Bail Gaon), released the moon at Chandanwari (Jataon), the snake at Lake Sheshnag, Lord Ganesh at Mahagunas Parvat (Mahaganesh Hill ), Panch Bhoot at Panjatarani (five elements of life Earth, Water, Air, Fire and Sky) which make a living being. Finally he created Rudra (Kalagni) and ordered him to set afire and eliminate every living thing in and around the holy cave.
Then Lord Shiva took Parvati Goddess inside the cave to tell her the ‘Amar Katha’. But as a matter of chance one egg which was lying beneath the deer skin remained protected. The pair of pigeons which were born out of this egg became immortal having listened to the secret of immortality (Amar Katha). As Lord Shiva has revealed the secrets of immortality to his wife Parvati in the holy cave therefore the place has been named as Amareshwar. Another legend says that sage Kashyapa, who drained the lake of Kashmir, had found the cave along with the lingam in it. Bhrigu Rishi, the Manasputra (son, born of a wish) of Brahma is also said to be responsible for the discovery of the Amarnath Cave and the Shivlinga.
Sanctum Sanctorum
The main attraction at Amarnath cave is the iced stalagmite formed inside the inside the 40 m high Amarnath cave. This Ice Lingam gets formed due to freezing of water drops that fall from the roof of the cave on to the floor and grow up vertically from the cave floor. It waxes during May to August and gradually wanes thereafter. As per the religious beliefs, it has been claimed that the lingam grows and shrinks with the phases of the moon reaching its height during the summer months. This ice lingam reaches its full size on the full moon day and then begins to wane to disappear on the no moon day. By its side there are four to five ice formations resembling figures of various deities including that of Parvati and Ganesha. Lord Mrityunjay (Shiva) is considered to be the God of immortality. The renowned ice Shivlinga of Amarnath and the cave are a natural symbol of this form of Shiva.
Historical Sources
There are references to legendary king Aryaraja (circa 32 BCE-17 CE) who used to worship a lingam formed of ice in Kashmir. Pandit Kalhana’s 11th century chronicle Rajatarangini refers to Amareshwara or Amarnath. There is also mention of Queen Suryamati, the wife of King Ananta (1028-1063), granting sunder her husband’s name agraharas at Amareshwara, and arranged for the consecration of trishulas, banalingas and other sacred embles. In his Chronicle of Kashmir, a sequel to Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, Jonaraja relates that that Sultan Zainu’l-abidin (1420-1470) paid a visit to the sacred tirtha of Amarnath while constructing a canal on the left bank of the river Lidder. Another Kashmir chronicle ‘Rajavalipataka’, begun by Prjayabhatta and finished by Shuka, has detailed references to the pilgrimage to Amarnath Cave during Akbar’s time. Pandit Jagannath in his ‘Asaf Vilas’ makes clear mention of Amarnath. Foreign travelers including Francios Bernier, the court physician of Aurangzeb, Vincient A Smith and Vigne have left records of their visit to the holy cave.
The great Sikh Guru Arjan Dev is said to have granted land in Amritsar for the ceremonial departure of Chari, the holy mace of Lord Shiva which marks the beginning of the Yatra to the Holy Cave. In 1819, the year in which the Afghan rule came to an end in Kashmir, Pandit Hardas Tiku “founded the Chhawani Anmarnath at Ram Bagh in Srinagar where the Sadhus from the plains assembled and where he gave them free rations for the journey, both ways from his own private resources”.
Discovery of Holy Cave
It is believed that after the 10th-11th centuries, this cave was forgotten by people and it was once again discovered by a shepherd in the 15th century. According to one of the stories that once a Gujjar (Shepherd) named Buta Malik was given a bag full of coal by a holy man. When he reached home, he found that the bag contained not coal, but gold coins. Overjoyed, he ran back to the place where he had met the Holy man. However the holy man had disappeared and Buta Malik instead discovered the cave and the Lingam.
Yatra
Holy Cave temple of Aamrnath has emerged as a popular pilgrimage destination in recent years. In 2011 it received about 634,000 persons, the highest recorded number for the site. The number was 622,000 in 2012. The beginning of the annual pilgrimage of Amarnath is marked by ‘pratham pujan’ to invoke the blessings of Shri Amarnathji. A 55-day yatra to Amarnath shrine will begin from this year from June 28 and conclude on Raksha Bandhan on August 21, 2013.
Route
The Amarnath cave is situated a distance of 275 kms from Jammu and around 140 km from Srinagar and 42 km from Pahalgam. However, the distance from Srinagar to Pahalgam via Pampur and Tral is only 72 km. The popular route to Aamrnath Cave, also favored by authorities is the Pahalgam route which passes through Chandanwari, Sheshnag, Panjatarani before reaching the holy cave.
On day one of the yatra, pilgrims reach Pahalgam and stay there overnight. On day two, pilgrims leave in groups for Chandanwari (16 kms drive, 9498 ft). From Chandanwari, pilgrims start on foot or on Ponies or by palakis to reach, after steep ascent of Pissooghati pass (13000 ft), to the first halt at Sheshnag Lake (12392 ft). The journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines on the right bank of a cascading stream and wild scenery. The waters of this greenish blue lake are covered with ice till June. According to the Hindu mythology the sacred snake Sheshnag has seven heads and this is how the place having seven peaks derives its name Sheshnag.
On day three the track starts from Sheshnag towards Panchatarani and to Aamrnath Cave. One has to climb steep height up across Mahagunus Pass (14000 ft) for 4.6 Km. This route to Mahagunas, full of rivulets, waterfalls and springs then descends to meadows land of Panjtarni which is situated at the foot of mount Bhairava. Five Rivers flow here. It is said that the five rivers originated from Lord Shiva’s Hair (Jataon). After arriving at Panjtarni and resting for some time, the pilgrims again start trekking towards the Amarnath holy cave, bathe in Ice cold water at Amarnath stream in front of the Cave, have ‘darshan’ of the ice lingam and return back to Panjtarni for overnight stay. On day 4 pilgrims return from Panjtarni to Chandanwari after tracking for approximate 12-15 hours journey and then travel to Pahalgam. On day five pilgrims either choose to go from Pahalgam to Jammu or to Srinagar.
Shorter Route
The shorter northern route to Aamrnath Cave route is just about 14 km long, but has a very steep gradient and is quite difficult to climb. It starts from Baltal and passes through Domial, Barari, and Sangam to reach stream of Amaravati (It is more like a tributary of Chenab) which originates from Amarnath Glacier. Only the very fit can go and come back the same day after trekking 28 kms.
Safety Measures
Keeping in view the manifold increase in number of devotees visiting the Anmarnath Cave, Govt. of J&K has taken adequate measures for smooth passage of the Yatra and minimum loss of life. For this purpose, registration for the Yatra has been made mandatory. The minimum and upper age limit for the Amarnath Yatra has been fixed at 13 years and 75 years.
Through various media the official agencies are continuously advising the pilgrims to take adequate precautions before embarking upon the Yatra which includes a proper medical check-up for heart and other ailments. Pilgrims should compulsorily carry woolen clothes, stockings and trousers, jacket, raincoat, umbrella, waterproof shoes, walking stick, cap and gloves. Other essentials are torch light, candle and match box.
Facilites
Officially, the Yatra is organized by Shree Amarnath Shrine Board (SASB) in collaboration with J&K State Government. The Government agencies provide necessary facilities all along the route during the Yatra period, which includes provision of ponies, supply of power, telecommunication facilities, firewood and setting up of fair price shops. The State Road Transport Corporation and Private Transport Operators provide the regular services from Jammu to Pahalgam and Baltal. Also privately hired taxis are available from Jammu.
Jammu Base Camp
The base camp of Shri Amarnath Ji Yatra at Jammu is located in Yatri Niwas at Bhagwati Nagar, Jammu. Other places where the Amarnath yatris can seek free accommodation are Sanatan Dharma Sabha, Gita Bhawan, Parade, Aggarwal Sabha, Vivekanand Chowk, Shiv Mandir, Mini Market, Railway Station, Mahajan Sabha, Shalamar Road, Dogra Saddar Sabha, Dogra Hall and Brahman Sabha, Parade Ground. Langer facilities for Sadhus are available at Ram Mandir at Purani Mandi. Accommodation is also available in all Hotel/Lodges at discount in Jammu and Katra.
Langars
Right from Lakhanpur onwards upto the holy cave, Amaranth yatris are served free food in langars-food kiosks, put up by individual devotees and NGOs registered with SASB. The pilgrim camp for first night at Nunwan Yatri Camp, 6 kms short of Pahalgam. Other than free food, there is also provision to provide resting tents called pandals. Near the shrine, hundreds of tents which are erected by locals can be hired for a night’s stay.
Helicopter Services
To provide helicopter services for yatris from Baltal to Panchtarani and Pahalgam to Panchtarani, Shri Amarnath Ji Shrine Board has collaborated with three Helicopter Operators. For Baltal to Panchtarani Route, the Helicopter Service will be provided for Global Vectra Pvt Ltd and Himalayan Heli Services Pvt Ltd, where as for Pahalgam to Panchtarani Route the Service will be provided for Pawan Hans Pvt Ltd. Yatris can book online tickets at the websites of the Helicopter Operators.
Disaster Management
The furry of recent flash floods at Uttar Kashi, which has left thousands of pilgrims dead and equal number stranded without food and water, has come as clarion call for checking in advance the preparedness of the Govt. Disaster Management Department of J&K State both in terms of trained men and materials to meet any such eventuality.
The holy cave of Amaranth like other such places is called tirtha-a point of crossing over. Let the pilgrimage of Amarnath be a point of crossing over, a transition to a higher level of thought, action and existence. But at the same time pilgrims should also uphold highest human value of compassion and care of fellow pilgrims as well as the environment.
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