Shivani Vaid Sharma
vaidshiva@gmail.com
Nestled in the Himalayan foothills of Jammu, the Dogra community cherishes a culinary heritage that goes beyond mere food—Kalari (or Kaladi) cheese. Known as ‘Dogra Mozzarella,’ it originated centuries ago in the Jammu region, with roots deeply intertwined with the nomadic Gujjar-Bakarwal communities. These herders developed it as an ingenious way to preserve milk during long journeys and scorching summer months, transforming fresh milk into a high-protein, fatty solid that stays shelf-stable without refrigeration, a portable staple that sustained generations amid challenging conditions. Hailing from rural areas like Ramnagar, Chenani, and Udhampur, it earned the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2023, symbolizing Jammu’s cultural pride.
The Magic of Ancient Craft
Making Kalari blends patience and tradition. Raw cow, buffalo, or goat milk is boiled in an iron vessel, soured with whey, coagulated, and kneaded by hand into a firm, dense, mildly tangy cheese. Its elastic texture distinct from regular paneer shines through sun-drying or smoking over wood fires, yielding a prized stretchy quality and smoky flavour.
From Griddle to Plate Adventure
Kalari’s charm unfolds on Jammu’s streets. Grilled on a hot griddle until crispy golden-brown outside and gooey inside, it’s seasoned with salt and chaat masala, then stuffed into soft bread as Kalari Kulcha, a warm snack perfected with green and red chutneys. It’s a winter breakfast favourite and street food king.
Safeguarding Cultural Legacy
Kalari embodies Jammu’s pastoral resilience, from Gujjar-Bakarwal migrations to Dogra hearths. The GI tag has elevated Ramnagar’s methods globally, with modern cafes and initiatives preserving it for future generations.
A Vital Clarification on Identity
Recently, in his Mann Ki Baat address, the Prime Minister referred to Kalari as part of Kashmir cuisine. This merits correction: Kalari is quintessentially Dogra from Jammu’s heartland, with bold, hearty flavours distinct from Kashmiri delicacies. Proper attribution honours Dogra cultural pride.
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