A neglected beautiful village

Mahadeep Singh Jamwal
The village Urlian eighth ward of Panchayat Halqa Battal, Distt and Teh. Udhampur is located on the mountain range of outer Himalayas known as Shivalik Hills also known as ‘Manak Parvat’ in the ancient times. Shivalik literally means tresses (Hair) of Shiva and it also denotes sub range of Shivalik Hills known as ‘Dhars’ (Small Mountains) which are cut through at wide intervals by numerous large rivers. The village Urlian is located in ‘Karahi Dhar’ sub range of Shivalik Hills.
The ‘Karahi Dhar’ range lies between River Tawi on Eastern side and ‘Jajjhar’ on western side. It bifurcate Jammu District and Udhampur District. The village, like almost all the Shivalik Range is in low population density and is based along the steep slope of the “Karahi Dhar’. In spite of sloppy natural landscape of the area, the village is blessed with a number of historical natural resources of water, known as ‘Baoulies’ in Dogri. The most prominent among them are ‘Baouli Kugga-Dabbarh’, ‘Baouli Paddar’, ‘Muse Dee Baouli’, ‘Dhak Baouli’, ‘Malungarh Baouli’, ‘Chashma Narh-Moreh’, ‘Chashma Parley-Thein’, ‘Chashma-Jagtehdi’, ‘Talli Sulah’, ‘Channu Sullah’, Purana Khuh’, Bagh Khuh’.
The village Urlian founded approximately about 400 years ago by the sons of Bhikam Singh, a Jagirdar of present Jaganoo village (Udhampur) and third generation of Raja Hari Dev, who ruled Jammu Princely State from 1652 to 1688. The on foot journey from Jammu to Udhampur prior to motor able road was via village Urlian and the residents had been an obstruction for those who used to travel from Jammu to Udhampur side to invade the surrounding independent rulers such as Krimchi, Chenani (Himmata), Ramnagar (Bandralta) and onward Doda, Kishtwar and Srinagar etc. The on foot journey from Udhampur to Jammu was only via village Urlian and a Dak Banglow at place Sangyal near village Urlian was the resting place for travellers. The said Dak Banglow still exists in a dilapidated condition as a historical place totally ignored by the State Govt.
The topographical study revealed that the place where the present village Urlian exists was a dense forest having some plain patches of barren land with a number of water resources. It was a habitat of many wild species of animals. The village is approachable from all four cardinal directions.
1. From Jammu Srinagar NHW, the take off points are from Flata and Tikri Chanas.
2. From Udhampur Srinagar by pass road the take off points are from Garnai, Lota and Ladyala village links.
3. From Dhar Road side the take off points are from Gaddar, Dadda and Darsu village links.
4. From Kishanpur Jandrah road, the take off points is from Jandrah, Kanyala, Kahpota and Dansal. From these entire points journey is about 2/3 km on foot and Mountainous in nature with many unique and charming places enroute.
The village is surrounded by the Chir forest and is a wonderful hub of many human friendly animals and birds. It is a tremendous trekking destination to explore the forest. The village is all set to become a tourist hub all along with the important ‘Shakti Sthal of Mata Maha Maya’ in the Jammu province.
The residents of the village feel proud of their lineage with rulers of Princely State Jammu. After remaining in oblivion for a considerable period, the village shot into prominence when the dormant place of ‘Mata Maha Maya’ became known to the people, at the time, when a temple was built and a great ‘Bhandara’ was organized at the Shakti Sthal. Now, the place is visited by thousands of devotees every year and is the second Shakti Sthal after Vaishno Devi, visited by the devotees during Navratras. The one day pilgrimage of three important places of Mata especially during Navratras, around Udhampur town comprises of ‘Mata Baggey Wali’ at village Baggey, ‘Mata Maha Maya’ at village Urlian and ‘Mata Mahakali’ at Rehamble Udhampur. The temple of Mata is located at the top of the village. The last stretch from village Urlian side (traditional route) is to be traversed by climbing 453 stairs. The Shakti Sthal has accommodation for night halts with all facilities. The residents of the village cater to all the required facilities for devotees as free service. The ‘Mata Maha Maya village Urlian Development Committee’ and the ‘Pujaries’ are mainly concerned with all the ongoing development activities with the active cooperation of the devotees.
The residents of village Urlian are Jamwal a ruling clan of Rajput community, and direct descendants of Jamwal rulers of princely State Jammu. The courteous, benevolently and humanitarian approach of the residents of the village can be perceived very well from the people of the ‘Gujjar Community’ settled in the village at the place of the residents of the village called as ‘Mata Da Gair’ as well as from the people of other community now settled in Morah Balyal of Panchayat Malarh, as their ancestors were given security, shelter and food by the sanely elders of the village during the turmoil period of 1947.
The village Urlian remained in oblivion due to the fact, that there was no education in the village and the ignorant villagers were not aware of their lineage with the ruling dynasty of Jammu Princely State. Inspite of all these facts, the Urlians had served as Wazir with Maharaja Ranbir Singh, as Tehsildar with Raja Poonch and as weaponary instructor (The grandfather of the author) of Maharaja Hari Singh. The elders of the village had served with Indian Army and had taken part in first and second World War. One of the elder of the village Martyr Subedar Krishan Singh (Paternal uncle of the author) lost his life for the sake of the Nation’s honour while fighting with enemies in Poonch in 1948, at a place now known as ‘Krishna Ghati’. His sacrifice was honoured by The Govt of India by awarding ‘Veer Chakra’ posthumously.

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