Basohli in ruins

Shiv Kumar Padha
Only those nations and the races could survive in the world that owed allegiance to their past, had confidence in their present and hopes tagged with the future. The races and the nations which indulged in wars, annexations, invasions and plunder couldn’t uphold the glory of their past extinct from the soil. Etymologically the word heritage is a property that is or may be inherited, valued things such as historic buildings, monuments, traditions, skills, arts and vocations passed down from previous generations. Heritage is the full range of our inherited traditions, monuments, objects and culture. It is both tangible and intangible like the ideas, songs and dances.
The whole of Jammu and Kashmir is gifted with rich heritage which is not being protected by the Archaeological Department properly. There are a number of monuments located in different towns and villages which are either not in the notice of the Archaeological Department or even if they are, the department doesn’t have resources to care for their protection and development. Amongst the historical towns of Jammu division, Basohli is the oldest which is gifted with rich cultural heritage. Though a small old State,Basohli has left an indelible mark on the cultural horizon of India. Besides its tangible heritage of beautiful and unique old palaces, forts,15th – 16th century old temples, monuments, old water tanks and chiseled caves, Basohli is also known for its traditions, chitterkala, astrology, classical singing and Ayurveda.
According to Kahan Singh Billoweria, historian and resident of Basohli, Raja Bhoopat Pal, in order to make capital of Basohli invincible for the hostile Rajas of Chamba and Nurpur, founded the capital at the place where it is now in 1635 A.D.Raja Bhoopat Pal also founded the palaces and the forts. His successors Sangram Pal,Kirpal Pal, DheerajPal,Medini Pal and Amrit Pal made additions to it from time to time. Raja Mahender Pal added the Rang Mahal and Sheesh Mahal to it decorated with the mural paintings. Vigne, the French traveller who visited Basohli between 1835-39 called Sheesh Mahal a finest building he had seen in the east. He admired its square turrets, embattled parapets, Chinese roofed balconies and a moat like tank in front. The grandeur of the palace was not inferior to that of Heidelberg ,he has remarked. The palaces which were ever the glory and pride of the east are now in the ruinous State and are gradually collapsing due to the neglect of the Government. It has many historical secrets and information lying in its compartments underneath. The fort of Chanchlo Devi, Jalakadi (in the heart of the town) and the fort of Thein are in the ruinous State. While Chanchlo Devi fort is housing the temple, the forts of Jalakadi and that of Thien have become the shelter for the monkeys and bats.
Basohli was known for its old 15th and 16th century temples. Before ponding of the dam there were about 125 temples some of them on the sides of the dhakees (way) leading to the river Ravi. Now some of them have submerged in the dam water.The temples which survived are Lord Shiva. The temple is standing with its one wall deep in the tank. The Shiv temple of Mahandera is a mile away from the town. It is very old temple as per its architectural style is concerned. There are friezes all around the temple the upper portion bears circular medallions with three faces or heads of Shiva. The doorways are carved with figures of demons and gods.
Basohli paintings are famous world over. There is hardly any museum in the world which has not showcased Basohli paintings there. The great patrons and the originators of the Basohli school of art were Raja Sangram Pal and Raja Kirpal Pal (178-93). Raja Kirpal got the books on Sushrut and Charak (epics of Ayurveda) with illustrations prepared by Srikantha in 1688 A.D. The main themes of Basohli Art Rasmanjari and Geeta Govinda expressed with serene simplicity. National museum Dehli, Rashterpati Bhavan, Amar palace Jammu and Rajbhavan are the major places which show case Basohli art . The Pashmina shawls are the creation of the Basohli cottage industry. Basohli pashmina shawl on the shoulders of a woman is a pride possession. But the pashmina industry is destroyed by the partisan policy of the Government because the weavers neither have the raw pashmina available nor there is any market for their product which their counterparts have in Kashmir. The pashmina industry of Basohli is being meted out the same treatment by its own Government which the muslin cloth of Dhaka (Dhaka Kimalmal) once met during the British regime. Basohli was once famous for its Vaidyas due to their knowledge of herbs, their use in making the medicines at home and for their art of diagnosing the ailment by feeling the pulse of the patient. Basohli was a town where every house was called a pharmacy of Ayurveda medicines.
Archaeological department with the help of tourism, parks and Fountain departments should take initiative and devise strategy for the preservation of the heritages of the town. The revival of pashmina industry, Basohli Chitter Kala, Indian system of medicines and development of the places of tourist potential can open doors for multidimensional tourism in Basohli and Bani. There are a number of suggestions which can help arrest the process of withering of the century old heritage of the town.
The remaining rooms of the palace on the ground floor should be converted either into heritage restaurant, library or museum for the antiques recovered after the excavation of some parts of palace. The surroundings of the ruins should be illuminated by the flood lights. Light and sound program, on the pattern of Mughul Gardens Srinagar should be started in the palaces. The excavation of the underground part of the palace should be undertaken because there is possibility of burials in its compartments.
* The moat like tank should be renovated and filled with the fresh water making it worth boating. The area around the tank should be converted into a beautiful park so that the tourists or locals can sit there during their leisure hours.
* The fort of Chanchlo Devi should be repaired, the parks be constructed for the devotees and the tourists. A rope way or gondola service be started from the town to the fort so that the visitors can enjoy the view of RSD lake below. The fort at Jalakadi be converted into a city center restaurant. Paragliding sport can very well be developed at the fort by constructing a launching pad for the Para gliders
* The Basohli Chiterkala should be revived by introducing it in the school syllabus up to middle standard. The Basohli painting school should be permanently stationed at Basohli. The museum building being used by other departments be exclusively used as museum for showcasing the paintings and the replicas.
* The herbal garden, which stands sanctioned for the last 15 years,should be developed so that the Ayurveda medicines can be prepared by the local vaidyas at home and once again each house becomes a pharmacy.
* The old temples of Shiva, Mahandera and other century old temples submerged in lake water should once again be recovered when the lake water recedes and their dito replicas constructed on the land.
* Water tourism should be started and the town be provided good connectivity with the other parts of the State and country.
* For reviving the pashmina industry in the town, the raw material of good quality should be made available to the weavers; loans should be offered to them for purchase of pashmina and accessories on subsidized rates. Markets for their products be provided for selling their shawls at good rates.
The preservation of the Basohli heritage can revive the glory and grandeur of the historical town and can give fillip to tourism in Kathua district.

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