Inder Jeet S ‘Prince’
The holy cave of “Baba Amar Nath Ji’’ (Lord Shiva) lovingly called as “Baba Barfani’’ is situated about 140 Kms from Srinagar and is at a height of about 13000 Ft. above the sea -level. An age old story about the discovery of this holy cave goes like this that one local shepherd was searching for his lost flocks in the hilly mountains unexpectedly he found himself in front of this un-melting “Ice-lingam” of white camphor with the vault itself dripping offerings of water over it for centuries unseen by mortal eyes. He came home and whispered to other shepherds in the Valley how he suddenly come upon ‘Mahadeva’’ !
Another story goes like this that a local shepherd named Buta Malik happened to meet a “Sadhu’’ during the course of tending his sheep. That Sadhu gave him a “Kangri’ full of burning coals. (Kangri is an earthen vessel for placing burning coals in it’ to keep oneself warm). That shepherd on reaching home found’’ Kangri was full of gold instead of burning coals. He turned back to thank ‘Sadhu’’ but could not find him. Instead he found the holy cave of Baba Amarnath Ji since then 1/3rd of the donations collected at the holy cave used to be given to the family of Buta Malik.
According to some authors, the holy shrine of Baba Amarnath Ji had been lost for thousands of years and for other writers, for hundred years, till it was rediscovered by Maliks of Batkul.
However, there is no dearth of writers who believe that Amarnath Ji cave may not have been lost for thousands or hundreds of years. The pilgrimage must’ve been disturbed due to political upheavals or natural calamities or persecution of the Hindus during the Mughal invasion at the most for a decade or so. According to book “The Valley of Kashmir’’ written by Lawrence, the pilgrims proceeding to Amarnath Ji cave used to be joined by Brahamins of Mattan area and further up from Batkul, Maliks used to take charge of the pilgrimage. Maliks of Batkul were supposed to keep the track in good order, carry sick ones and ensure that nothing was stolen during the pilgrimage belonging to pilgrims. They used to receive 1/3rd of the offerings at Amar Nath Ji cave. It can easily be understood that the share of offerings was for the services rendered by Maliks. There is no mention anywhere in the book or in the history that share of offerings was in lieu of having re-discovered the shrine.
ROUTES
To have ‘darshan’ of ‘Baba Barfani’ one has to reach Pahalgam, situated on the Bank of Lidder-stream. Pahalgam is about 96 Kms from Srinagar, the summer capital of J&K State. It is said that Lord Shiva and Maa Parvati left their ‘Nandi’ (“Bail’’) here while on they way to some lonely place (holy cave). The place used to be called “Bailgaam’’ and with the passage of time it came to be known as Pahalgam.
After Pahalgam, up to about 16 Kms the way to Shri Amar Nath Ji cave goes along the bank of lidder stream which presents very attractive and pleasant sight.
In between comes ‘Ramajnakhya’ forest. It is said that Lord Rama with his wife Mata Sita and brother Laxman came to this place. Shri Ram saw demons moving here freely.
He was so upset that drops of perspiration appeared on his forehead. These drops of sweat fell in to the ponds of Ranjeevan making them pure and holy. Pilgrims bathe in these ponds to wash off their sins.
‘Chandanwadi’ is next stop, about 16 Kms from Pahalgam and is about 9500 ft above sea-level. From Chandanwadi one has to proceed towards Sheshnaag. One has to cross ‘Pissu-Top’ before reaching ‘Sheshnaag’. The way to Pissu Top is serpent like zig-zag and stoney. One has to climb high mountains with deep gorges on one side. Pissu Top is about 14000 ft above sea level.
Next stop is Sheshnaag lake which is situated at about 11730 Ft above sea-level, pilgrims stay here for night in hired tents. According to age old stories, Lord Shiva appointed ‘Sheshnaag’ (a snake by name) here to prevent anybody from going towards holy cave where Lord Shiva was going to narrate ‘Amarkatha’ before Maa-Parvati. There are three peaks of mountains around the lake and have been named as ‘Brahama’, ‘Vishnu’ and ‘Mahesh’.
After having night rest at ‘Sheshnaag’, pilgrims proceed towards Mahagunas mountains which is about 14500 ft above sea level. Lack of oxygen is felt by pilgrims in this area who are to take proper care of themselves and should approach health officers or security personnels deployed en-route in case of any difficulty. This area is full of water falls and streams.
It is said that old name of Mahaguna was Mahaganesh because Lord Shiva had left his son “Ganesh ji’ here.
After crossing this region, one finds slopes and greenary.
One has to proceed towards Panchtarni after passing through a silent zone because of the looming danger of land slides. After passing through silent zone, the pilgrims reach an open valley and start chanting slogans like “Jai Bole Nath!’’ and “Jai Baba Barfani’’
From silent zone one reaches Panchatarni. It is believed that Lord Shiva let off five components like Prithvi, ‘Jal’, ‘Vayu’, ‘Agni’ and ‘Aakash’) at this place and took, the form of ‘Natraj’ and performed ‘Tanav-Nritya’ here.
While performing this dance, Lord Shiva’s coiled hair ‘Jatayen’ got scattered and the holy ‘Ganga’ came out. The Ganga got divided into five parts and the place began to be called as “Panchtarni’’ which is situated at about 12000 ft above the sea level. From here the holy cave of Baba Amarnath Ji is about six Km whereas the distance between Sheshnaag and Panchtarni is about 13 Kms..
Pilgrims have to stay for night at “Panchtarni’’. In the morning, after having bath in the holy streams of Panchtarni they proceed further.
There begins the difficult ascent of ‘Bhairav Ghati’. The last about three Kms path is in the shape of a huge glaciar moving over the Amravati stream that flows here. It is said that once all the Gods together prayed to Lord Shiva and asked him to liberate them from the fear of death. At this place Lord Shiva removed moon off his forehead and squeezed it. ‘Amritjal’ came out on squeezing ‘Chanderkala’ and started flowing as ‘Amravati’.
A bath in this ‘Jal’ made the Gods immortal today, pilgrims take a dip in ‘Amravati’ stream before entering the holy cave to have ‘darshan’ of Ice lingam inside the holy cave.
The Holy Cave
The holy cave is situated at about 12730 ft above the sea level and is 60 ft long, 15 ft high and 25 ft wide with its entrance wide open. Water drops trickle here and there inside the holy cave. The ‘Syambhu’ (Self created) only Ice lingha in the world greets devotees inside this holy cave which has been visited and worshipped since early historic times.
A legend pertaining to the formation of the Ice linga is that Lord Shiva’s consort, Maa Parvati was eager to learn about secrets of life and immortality and prayed to her lord to reveal the same to her. While sporting over the Himalayas Shiv Ji rested in this cave and revealed the secrets of immortality to Maa Parvati and then transformed himself into an Ice Linga. A pair of snow pigeons were also resting in the holy cave. They overheard Lord Shiva’s discourse and also became immortal.
‘Sangam’ is the place where streams of ‘Amaravati’ and ‘Panchtarni’ meet together. From here one path goes to Pahalgam via ‘Panchtarni’ ‘Sheeshnaag’ route. The other path goes to ‘Sonamarg’ in Kashmir via ‘Baltal’ route. The Baltal route is shortest route but is difficult and insecure especially in rainy days as the path becomes slippery.
Many social and religious organisations from different parts of India organise free ‘Langar’ (community kitchens) on the entire route of Baba Amarnath Ji. Their efforts are praise -worthy and must be hailed by one and all.
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