With Mughal-era recipes, old Delhi eateries still draw crowds

NEW DELHI, July 20:
Even as the centuries-old Mughal era shop ‘Ghantewala’ downed its shutters recently in Chandni Chowk area here, other about as old eateries in the vicinity, continue to be favourites among tourists and locals alike.
Among them are names like Chaina Ram, Chaatwallah, Kanwarji Bhagirathmal, Dalbijiwallah and Dariba ki Jalebi that claim to sell ‘mithais’ with recipies dating back several decades to centuries, thus giving the Old Delhi market an unique identity.
Established in 1901, Chaina Ram has been serving a wide array of sweets that includes Sohan Halwa, Saeo Paak, Dhodha, Coconut Barfi, Kaju Barfi etc and are said to be early pioneers of the famous Karachi halwa being delivered on a pan-India basis.
The owner believes that a rise in prices has not affected the sales of the shop over the years and says quality, for them holds the key.
“Our sales have been consistent and we have transformed ourselves according to contemporary market condition. We have changed the packaging and also started ‘Home Delivery’ services for customers,” says Pradeep Gidwani, one of the owners of Chaina Ram.
“For us quality is important and we have our regular customers inspite of the price hike,” says Gidwani.
Started by Late Lala Kanwar Sen in the 18th century, Kanwarji’s , as it is known today, is a household name selling namkeens and sweets prepared from desi ghee.
The USP of the place is ‘DalBiji’, an Indian snack that can be stored for months enabling tourists to take it abroad.
Among the other specialties ‘Pista Lauj’, ‘Badaam Lauj’ and ‘Aloo ka Lachcha’.
The owner believes that the exclusivity of the products and the spices used to make them are special and is not available anywhere in the world
“Our products are exclusive and the spices are special. We have fixed customers who have been following the taste from several years and we make our products according to some norms which are not flouted.
Over the years the purity of ingredients have deteriorated but we make sure to test the ingredients before products are sold to the customers,” says Gupta, son of Kanwarji’s owner Rupnarayan Gupta.
Located in one corner of Chandni Chowk, the ‘Dariba ki Jalebi’ shop has been offering thick jalebis with Rabdi since 1884. The owner claims his jalebis are very different from those available at other shops, probably due to a secret receipe passed down over generations!
“We have been maintaining the same recipe from the past so many decades and since the taste is good, customers flock to our shop. The sales have come down a bit but the shop wont close down. The USP of the shop is that customers can come and eat in the same environment.
“The purity of the ingredients is inspected and the ghee is tested in the lab before it is used to make the thick jalebis,” says Abhishek Jain who owns the shop. Another famous shop, which serves a tangy and sweet fruit chaat coupled with spices and lemon has been the favourite with customers since its establishment in the year 1923.
According to Sanjay Bhargava, President of Chandni Chowk Market Association, shutting down of the Ghantewala is just an exception and no general view should be taken for all the shops.
“Ghantewala should not be taken as an example. The owners did not have the patience. This move to close down the 225 years old shop has ruined the traditions of their ancestors,” Sanjay Bhargava said.
“It is all about the survival of the fittest. There is no dearth of work and people come in huge numbers from across the globe to taste the cuisines of Chandni Chowk,” says Bhargava.
However, the market itself faces problems like narrow bylanes, dilapidated infrastructure etc, which says Bhargava if not addressed immediately might lead to decrease in footfalls.
“The Chandni Chowk market has a lot of potential and is a must visit for tourists in Delhi, but once they come they get put off by its narrow lanes and dilapidated state. Food joints manage to keep the historic place popular,” says Bhargava.
Places like ‘Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala’, ‘Gianji’s Falooda’ and ‘Karims’ have been seen as favourites and doing good business. (PTI)

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