A Pilgrimage of Faith and Devotion

Rajinder Chand Anthal

rajinderchandanthal100@gmail.com

Entire Duggar Pradesh is filled with glories of Lord Shiva. The residents of this brave land worship Lord Shiva as their Supreme God. Shiv Temples and shrines are found in every corner of Jammu province, prominent among them is the renowned Tirtha Sudhmahadev. It is the most favourite place of Lord Shiva as Goddess Parvati has taken incarnation as Devika Rivulet in this sacred land. A pilgrimage to Sudhmahadev is considered as pious as the pilgrimage of Kashi and Shri Amarnath ji. Legends say that Char Dham Yatra remains incomplete without Holy Bath in Devika and pooja in School Panishwar Shiv Ji Maharaj Temple Sudhmahadev.

Sudhmahadev is a small town in the foothills of Dhar Shivgarh. The vast area of Dhar Shivgarh starting from Patnitop into interiors of Latti has always remained favourite place of Dev Rishis and saints for meditation and spiritual attainment from the very early times of civilisation. The lower reaches of Dhar Shivgarh are filled with evergreen forests of Deodar. A large number of holy rivulets originate from these forests giving plenty of water to fertile agriculture fields for irrigation throughout the year. Apart from the holy rivulets like Devika, Charanvanti, Umavati, and Dhoul-Ganga, many others appear in the hinterland of Sudhmahadev like Bashat Nallah, Choka Nallah, Kossar Nallah, Sarad Nallah, Marothi Nallah, Pundal Nallah, and Dhankhad etc. All these rivulets start from upper reaches of Dhar Shivgarh and meet river Tawi. Due to their origin from Dev Bhumi Dhar Shivgarh, these Nallahs are also considered sacred water bodies. A large number of Shiv Temples have been constructed on the banks of these holy rivulets. The vast chunk of land spreading over large number of villages on the both sides of River Tawi constitute vast territories of Dev Bhumi under the umbrella of Maha Tirtha Sudhmahadev.

Three-Days Schedule of Sudhmahadev Mela

This year the Mela will be held from 28th June to 30th June, 2026 at various Tirathas of Sudhmahadev-Mantalai Panjtirthi circuit. The main importance of the Mela has been described in Shahi Shanan on the morning of Jyeshtha-Purnima at Nadda (sahastradhara) from which Holy Devika appeared on this earth.

On the first day of the Mela, large number of devotees from Jammu Province and adjoining areas reach Gaurikund in the evening. They take bath in holy waters of Gaurikund and offer prayer in the Goddess Parvati Temple there. Legends say that Goddess Parvati worshipped in a cave at Gaurikund for thousands of years to get married with Lord Shiva. The pilgrims enjoy the scenic beauty of this place and feel the enchanting cool breeze coming across sacred Rivulet Charanvanti flowing nearby. Night stay facility and free Langar service is available at Gaurikund. After visiting Gaurikund, the devotees proceed further towards Sudhmahadev mainly on foot and cover the distance of 2 kilometres in the moonlight singing Dogri folk songs and chanting slogans like 'Har Har Mahadev'. Pertinent to mention that people in different groups reach Sudhmahadev from different places and assemble in the main Chogan of Sudhmahadev. The locals as well as visitors from nearby Doda district prefer to sit on rooftops of the houses playing flute and singing Dogri folk songs. The bazaars of Sudhmahadev are well decorated and the streets remain full of people during day and night.

SUDHMAHADEV MELA JUNE 28-June 30

On the second day of the Mela, the pilgrims have very busy schedule of religious activities. They wake up early in the morning at 4 o'clock and proceed towards sacred waterfall called Nada or Sahastrdhara. This is the place where Holy Devika appears on this earth from a rocky hillock. A Holy Bath under this waterfall is the main attraction of Sudhmahadev Mela on the day of Purnima. This place is about 3 kilometres from Sudhmahadev towards North. There is a kachha pathway passing through rough upward hilly terrain. On return, the pilgrims take bath in Gau-Karan Tirtha on the bank of Devika and reach back Sudhmahadev by 10 a.m. for main pooja of Lord Shiva in Shri Shool Panishwar Shiv Ji Maharaj Temple. The temple has been built on a raised platform. Main entrance is called Deodi. In the temple complex, there is Haveli of Raja of Chenani and large number of Samadhis of Nath Yogis, some of which are alive samadhis. The miraculous Trident of Lord Shiva broken into three parts is buried deep in front of main temple. Legends say that Lord Shiva had thrown this Trident from Kailash to kill a demon called Sudhant, who was causing obstacles in the worship of Mata Parvati. The main idol of Shiv Parvati was discovered by a farmer in nearby area while ploughing his field and that place is known as Ambunij Tirtha.

In front of the main Shiv Temple, there is a temple of Guru Gorakh Nath ji to visit and worship. Near the Gorakh Nath Temple, there is a black stone idol of Bharo Nath, which is unique in construction and looks. In the temple complex, there is a continuously burning Dhuni from thousands of years. The sacred fire of this Dhuni was lit by Yogi Roop Nath who came here from Guru Gorakh Nath Peeth (U.P). This dhuni presents a divine miracle that huge logs of wood are burnt here daily but no ash is taken out, yet the level of ash in Dhuni remains the same. After pooja in main temple, the public seek darshan of SHIV RUDRI, which is a precious jewel and emits wonderful light. It is said that this SHIV RUDRI was stolen by thieves many times and each time it reached back due to some miracle of Lord Shiva. After visiting main temple, the pilgrims proceed towards Papnashni Bowli. It is believed that all the worldly sins disappear after a bath in the water of Papnashni. There remains great rush of people at Papnashni Bowli. The people, especially the newly married exchange sweets and perform ritual of Mitri, which remains like brotherly relations forever. After holy bath in the Papnashni, the devotees seek blessings of Goddess Mall Devi in nearby Devi Mandir Sudhmahadev.

Mantalai, the birth place of Mata Parvati is next destination of Yatra. The pilgrims in large number take holy bath in Sarovar there and offer prayer in temple of Mata Parvati. Legends say that the present Sarovar, now filled with water was Havan-Kund during the marriage of Lord Shiva. There are ancient archaeological sites at Mantalai near Holy Sarovar, where earthen pots and clay utensils appear during digging and there is no end to it. Nearby there are remains of 15th Century Fort of Chenani Kings called Garh Barkot Fort, now turned into visible ruins due to neglect. Likewise, there are ruins of 'Lien Soo', the first Palace site of Chenani kings, now turned into heap of soil and stones. Government should handover these sites to ASI for proper research and development. Mantalai was brought on the tourism map with the efforts of Swami Dhirendra Brahamchari in the seventies, and large-scale infrastructure was raised there in the shape of Airfield, Swimming Pool, Aparna Ashram, Hostels, Goshala, and Yoga Research Centre, etc. Now these sky-high buildings present deserted looks and world class Yoga facilities turned into ruins.

Now the Government of India has constructed International Yoga Centre at Mantalai on the available land of Aparna Ashram. Duly completed, this huge infrastructure has not formally been put to use. Without proper care and look after, the recently constructed Institute is likely to get damaged as well. It is requested that this Centre may kindly be handed over to some competent authority of Government of India with regular flow of funds. Moreover, the infrastructure of Aparna Ashram of Swami Dhirendra Brahamchari be renovated for tourism purpose. After Holy Bath in Sarovar and pooja in Mantalai temple, the pilgrims turn towards Aparna Ashram to enjoy cool and serene atmosphere beneath Deodar Trees in the main ground near Baba Purdwar temple. In late hours of evening, the pilgrims return back to Sudhmahadev.

On the third day of the Mela, a wrestling match is held in the Chogan of Sudhmahadev with participation of reputed wrestlers from far off places. Once grand religious event of Duggar, it is sorry to say that this oldest Mela is losing shine due to neglect on the part of the concerned authorities. Even without proper publicity, thousands of devotees visit this Mela every year from far off places. In the past, the devotees used to visit on public transport, but now majority of the pilgrims come with their vehicles and due to no parking facilities, even within 2 kilometres radius of Sudhmahadev, the devotees suffer badly for hours in traffic jams and nobody is available to listen to them. So, this is the main problem affecting participants in the Mela. It is requested that adequate road widening may be done from Devika Bridge to Dhankhad Nalla at Sudhmahadev for better parking facilities. On the last day of the Mela, the people make large scale purchase of sweets, bangles, and other utilities, and return home happily with the blessings of Lord Shiva, the supreme God of the Universe.

(The author is former Zonal Education Officer, Chenani)