Rajinder Chand Anthal
Sudhmahadev is the most favourite place of Lord Shiva. In the spiritual atmosphere of this land Maharishi Ved Vyas and Kashyap Rishi have worshipped Lord Shiva for thousands of years. When Kashyap Rishi pleased Lord Shiva with his hard worship and requested Goddess Parvati to appear at Sudhmahadev as Devika, the Goddess refused by saying that she cannot be separated from Lord Shiva. So Shiva himself promised Parvati that you will always find me at Sudhmahadev and elsewhere you flow to wash the sins of humanity. Sudhmahadev has many other Tirthas associated with the glories of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. This place has recorded history of visit of prominent personalities, saints, Naths, Gods, and Goddesses for Holy Bath in Devika and pilgrimage of all Tirthas from ancient times. In those days, there was no road connectivity to Sudhmahadev, so the devotees of Lord Shiva hailing from far off places of J&K had to perform this yatra on foot for many days to reach Sudhmahadev.

(June 21- June 23)

The Sudhmahadev Mela is being held from ancient times. The traditional route was on foot from Chenani to Sudhmahadev with night stay at Haridwar or Benisangam. Next day after Holy Bath at Haridwar and Benisangam, the pilgrims march towards Gouri-Kund and onwards to Sudhmahadev and Mantalai for participation in three days long Mela. On the travel route between Chenani and Sudhmahadev there was arrangement of stay of devotees at Chenani Sarai, Mathur Sarai, and Shiv Mandir Chenani. In between Chenani and Haridwar there were two Dharamshalas at AILA and SARYARA where night stay arrangement was available. Next stay and Langar was available at Mandir Dushalla and BARFI at Khanderi was another attraction for visitors. Free meals and accommodation was available at Haridwar and Benisangam for thousands of visitors travelling enroute day and night. The devotees traveled on foot singing Shiv Bhajans and local folk songs throughout night in the serene atmosphere of this travel route.
Sudhmahadev Mela is one of the most important religious event of this area with participation of public from entire Jammu Province. This year the Mela will be held from 21st of June to 23rd of June 2024 at various places of religious importance.
On the 1st day of the Mela the devotees of Lord SHIVA start reaching Gauri-Kund from early morning in great number. They take bath in water of sacred water tank called Gauri-kund and offer prayer in the nearby Temple of Goddess Parvati. Legends say that Goddess Parvati worshipped at this place for thousands of years inside a cave to get married with Lord SHIVA. The pilgrims enjoy the scenic beauty of this place and feel the enchanting cool breeze coming across sacred rivulet flowing nearby. Throughout the way to Gauri-kund the locals establish stalls of eatables and other items. Free langer is also provided at this place. After holy bath and prayer at Gauri-kund the pilgrims march towards Sudhmahadev throughout the night mostly on foot singing local folk songs and chanting slogans like Har-Har-Mahadev. In this way, thousands of people from Doda, Bhaderwah, Kishtwar, Ramban, Latti, Ramnagar, Udhampur, and Jammu assemble at Sudhmahadev on the first night of the mela and take shelter in temple complex halls, private hotels, and local houses, etc. The visitors sit on the rooftops of houses playing flute and singing dogri folk songs. There is great rush in the streets of Sudhmahadev as the devotees keep on walking throughout the streets to enjoy the Mela. The villagers, ladies and outsiders make purchase of sweets, bangles and other items from shopkeepers. The majority of the yatris have to pass the night under open sky as no shelter sheds, toilets and separate bathrooms have been constructed at Sudhmahadev by the government to accommodate the ever-increasing number of pilgrims.
On the second day of the Mela the pilgrims wake up at 4 a.m. for Holy Bath in a sacred place known as NADA at a distance of 2 kms. from Sudhmahadev. This is the place where Holy Devika appears on earth. This is the special occasion to have bath at this place on Purnima for spiritual attainment. The pilgrims have to walk over a kachha pathway of about 2 kms rough terrain to reach this most sacred place. While returning, pilgrims take bath at Gou-karan temple on the same day. There are green mountain slopes on both sides of foot path and medicinal plants like timbroo and local herbs like karsod, etc., grow there in plenty which the pilgrims collect during the return journey. Holy Devika rivulet originating from Nada flows down to Sudhmahadev alongside of footpath.
After holy bath the pilgrims turn towards Sudhmahadev for worship of Lord Shiva in Shool Panishwar Shiv Ji Maharaj Temple. The main temple is built on a raised platform. In the front portion of this temple there is a Haweli of Raja of Chenani now donated for public cause. In the temple complex, there are Samadhis of NATH Sadhus. The trident of Lord Shiva broken into three pieces is buried deep in front of main temple. Legends say that Lord Shiva had thrown this trident from Kailash to kill a local demon called Sudhant, who was causing obstacles in the worship of Goddess Parvati. It is believed that this most sacred idol of SHIV-PARVATI was discovered by a farmer while ploughing his field at some distance from the present temple and that place is known as Ambunij tirath.
In the main temple complex there is temple of Guru Gorakh Nath facing Lord Shiva temple. The black stone idol of Bharo Nath just adjacent to exit gate is next to worship. The continuously burning DHUNI from thousands of years is another place to visit for the devotees, where huge logs of wood are burnt daily but no ash is taken out. It is indeed a miracle. Main pooja is held in Shool Panishwar Shiv Ji temple at Sudhmahadev. After the pooja the public have the darshan of Nandi and Shiv Rudri. SHIV RUDRI is precious jewel which emits wonderful rays of light. It is said that it was stolen many times but each time it reached back in the temple due to some miracle of Lord Shiva. Thereafter the pilgrims proceed towards PAPNASHINI Spring. It is said that all the worldly sins disappear after a bath in this cold water spring. There is one ancient temple of Goddess MALL DEVI adjacent to main bus stand Sudhmahadev constructed by Raja Gajender Chand of Chenani on the pattern of Sukrala Mata Temple. Pilgrims in large number visit this historic temple for worship during the Mela.
Mantalai is the last Tirtha to be visited by the devotees of Lord Shiva in the afternoon of second day of the Mela. The ‘Sarovar’ of Mantalai was Havan Kund for the marriage of Lord Shiva with Goddess Parvati. It was later got filled with water and hence the most sacred place for Holy Bath. Adjoining Sarovar, there is an old temple of Mata Parvati in her ‘Kanya Roop.’ In the temple complex, there are many articles believed to be of the time of marriage of Lord Shiva. The devotees worship Mata Parvati in this temple and proceed towards the old temple of Baba Purdwar situated in the central part of Aparna Ashram. Mantalai remained in the limelight due to construction of Aparna Yoga Ashram by Swami Dhirendra Brahamachari with multi-million infrastructure. This Ashram functioned well for many years with national and international Yoga lovers. After the death of Swami, the full-fledged Yoga Ashram was allowed to turn into ruins. It is requested that this portion of Aparna Ashram complex be renovated and converted into a hotel and museum for general public. Now the Government of India has established International Yoga Centre at Mantalai. It is requested that this unique institute may be given the status of Central Yoga University for its proper functioning.
The government is requested to tackle traffic jam problem during the Mela on priority basis. It has been noted that thousands of pilgrims visiting Mela in small vehicles have to wait roadside for three to four hours at Gourikund and Sudhmahadev in hot summer days with nobody to help them.
On the third day of the Mela, a wrestling match of reputed wrestlers is held in the Chogan of Sudhmahadev. In the evening of third day, people make large-scale purchases of sweets and other utilities from the shopkeepers in the closing hours of the Mela and depart towards their homes with sweet memories of Mela and blessings of Mata Parvati and Shiv Ji Maharaj for their well-being and prosperity.
(The author is former Zonal Education Officer)

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