Sunny Dua
The old age adage “Jine Lahore Nai Vekhya Oh Jamya Hi Nai” (One who has not seen Lahore is not born) always found a mention in the anecdotes that elders, most of whom who did LLB from the University of Punjab, Lahore during pre-partition era, narrated to their kith and kin here in India after the bloody partition of 1947. Mention Lahore and listen elders speak unendingly about Punjab University and their Barrister degrees after which they switch over to days spent in Lahore streets and Anarkali Bazar besides their teachers, colleagues and homes that they had to abandon.
The chats don’t actually end here but after having exchanged pleasant memories these people end up with grief and sordid tales of ‘Bloody Partition’ that has left an indelible scar on their hearts. Simultaneously, Lahore and other Sikh Gurdwaras always find a mention in ‘Ardaas’ (Sikh Prayer) wherein community members on a routine pray for paying obeisance at those Gurdwaras that have been left in Pakistan after the 1947 Partition that saw worst ever rioting, communal violence and population movement. They also pray for restoration of these Gurdwaras to the community here in India.
Now that Prime Minister Narendra Modi has made a surprise visit to Pakistan – which Bhartiya Janata Party (BJP) during peak of militancy in 90s had been demanding declaring as a ‘Rouge State, the aspirations of commoners and equations between the two hostile nations seems to have taken a new dimension. Unlike past wherein talking about Pakistan or thinking of finding a solution to vexed Kashmir issue used to be a nightmare for diplomats prior to formal talks or visits of their political bosses, Modi contrarily showed how easy it was to drop in, greet his counterpart and return to India in just few hours.
While both India and Pakistan deliberated on more complex and bigger issues, Modi showed the world that there were small things that make a big difference. There are talks of Modi not taking the nation into confidence by holding conventional “On Board” press conferences but leaving that for the worthy politicians to discuss and debate upon, I would prefer to talk making such a visit easy for commoners as well. The real appreciation, however, would be earned the day commoners will be able to replicate Modi’s this Lahore visit without any trouble.
A simple stopover at Lahore like Indians usually do at Amsterdam before flying to Houston in United States of America (USA) or at Moscow while flying any cheap airlines to London’s Heathrow Airport has virtually shown the world that besides Kashmir, militancy, cross-border terrorism, supply of gas pipeline, violating air spaces, border skirmishes, digging tunnels, pushing in ultras to this side of the fence or extraditing criminals there are several other spheres where both India and Pakistan can venture, make a headway and at least break the ice – one amongst these being cross border travel and trade.
Every year, thousands of people from Pakistan crowd Indian Embassy seeking visas for travelling to Ajmer Sharief Shrine, hospitals besides doing businesses or holding exhibitions or participating in cultural exchanges. Similarly, Indian’s make beelines in Pakistan Embassy seeking visas for visiting Katash Raj Temple, Sikh Gurdwaras or like their counterparts hold exhibitions or participate in Track-Two diplomatic peace talks being organised by various self-styled Peace Perfectionists that lead both India and Pakistan to nowhere but make these people an authority on Kashmir, for sure.
Narendra Modi during his last visit to Jammu and Kashmir had categorically said that he doesn’t need any advice on Kashmir. While this statement sets at rest all the speculations and permutations and combinations which the peace brigade keeps drawing in their brains, there seems to be a way ahead. This is also a message for those opposing playing cricket with Pakistan, Ghulam Ali performing in India, Adnan Sami seeking Indian citizenship or for that matter Pakistan trying to play hide and seek with India on tackling terrorism in the entire sub-continent.
If after three wars, bloody partition, Kargil conflict, 26/11 Mumbai carnage, cross border terrorism, tunnels dug underneath International Border (IB) or prevailing hostilities such a simple three-hour stopover could happen in Lahore why can’t this visit of Narendra Modi be replicated by rest of the country? Why can’t commoners visit Lahore streets and shop at Liberty Market – the fashionable circular market of who’s who of Lahore? And why can’t commoners pay obeisance at different shrines on other side of the fence?
There are several critics of Narendra Modi’s this surprise Lahore visit but then there are equal number of admirers who don’t want to see any more bloodshed. Amongst biggest admirers are chief minister of Jammu and Kashmir State Mufti Mohammad Sayeed who was the first to advocate talks over gun culture. When Mufti Sayeed floated the idea of “Boli over Goli” (Talks over Gun) entire nation was taken aback for the simple reason that it believed is “An eye for an eye” policy.
Mufti, however was able to convince the nation and not only made both India and Pakistan break ice but also facilitated opening borders at Chakka-Da-Bagh and Uri thereby facilitating travel and trade. He, now eyes on Suchetgarh and if everything goes well, Modi-Mufti duo are sure to write history and give people opportunities to re-live pre-partition era at Suchetgarh.
Once commoners begin to replicate Modi’s Lahore visit, a casual round of Punjab University, Lahore – oldest seat of learning in the sub-continent would not be a big task. During my visit to the university, students without any hesitation were glad to shake hands and even ask several questions. Their inquisitiveness was not less than anyone in India asking Lahore University student about their studies, country and culture.
Prime Minister’s initiative of peace with Pakistan also stands appreciated by Union Minister of State in PMO with independent charge of North Eastern States, Dr Jitendra Singh who has gone a step ahead saying that restoration of peace on borders and Sub Continent will benefit J&K state the most. Besides peaceful atmosphere if one gets to visit about 133-year old Punjab University in Lahore or pay obeisance at Daata Darbar located near the Bhati Gate into Lahore’s Walled City, Gurudwara Dera Sahib situated opposite Lahore Fort or Hanuman Temple at Lahore the benefits definitely are visible.
This visit of Prime Minister Narendra Modi has also been supported by almost all political parties on both sides of the fence and separatist leaders as well. This means that a beginning wherein people could replicate such a simple visit to neighbouring country can be made anytime from here on.
Badshahi Mosque, Gurdwara Dera Sahib, Lahore Fort, Minar-e-Pakistan – largest urban parks in Lahore, Mausoleum of the powerful ruler of the Sikh dynasty – Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Anarkali Bazar or a ride in the Suzuki three-wheelers though were in my itinerary, yet the way people and especially elders were responding individually it was all was far from the maddening news and views wherein we always find ourselves at daggers drawn.
Days ahead are not going to be same. There would either be an escalation in violence or thaw in hostilities yet a visit to the City of Lahore will at least make everyone realise how things move on that side of the fence. Interestingly there still are lanes, bazaars and Kuchaas that are addressed after their original establishers. The names like Kucha Naara Singh or Kucha Baba Boor Singh that still exists in Jammu, Pakistan too has Toba Tek Singh and several lanes named after people of Pre-Partition and locals haven’t even cared or dared to change the history.
Evening in the huge lawns of Minar-e-Pakistan and children’s swings on the backyard of this iconic structure attract tourists where we as Indians mingle with people without any hesitation of sense of alienation, though many long to talk but hesitate because of prevailing security concerns. It would be injustice with the middle aged lady if I conclude this without mentioning her desire to see India before her death. She was shopping in crisscross market of Anarkali Bazar when she held the hand of my wife asking does every activity in India happens like it happens in these Bazars? She, of course meant “Bargaining & ……..
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