Dr. Sonam Spalzin
Ladakh is the richest district of India in every aspect. It is dotted with beautiful monasteries, long ‘manay’ (mchod-rtens) walls, votive (mchod-rtens) stupas, chains of colourful mountains, calm oasis and lakes, folklore, ruin castles which speak about its glorious past and beautiful people. World famous Indian scholars prove that Ladakh was inhabited by different settlers during different periods. It was the earliest habitation during pre-historic times in the area and it is for this reason Ladakh is popularly known as the roof of the world. Tools and artifacts belonging to Palaeolithic and Neolithic periods from this area prove that it was inhabited by early man. During my exploration with my friend we exposed gravel on the right bank of the river Indus revealing many Palaeolithic tools consisting of chopper (unifacial), chopper (bifacial), discoids, worked pebbles and primary flakes (Plate 1). Hence the cultural matrix of Ranbirpura predates to Pleistocene period. Apart from our research there are countless evidences on prehistoric settlements in different areas of Ladakh where from experts collected countless artifacts.
My second interesting finding is Bon castle in this region. It is believed that before Buddhism in Ladakh it was dominated by a religion called Bon. The time period for Bon religion in Ladakh goes to 7th century B.C. and it is also known as pre-Buddhist era. Thus, the ruined castle of Bon in Ranbirpur is located on the summit of a hillock called the castle of King Surgamati (Sury- amati, “sun-mind”). On inscriptions at Khalatse we find Shirima (Sriman) and probably Satyamati (“Truth-mind”), besides several other names. At present this ruin castle site is known as Sonam-mati which is corrupted word of Surya-mati (Plate 2). It is in random rubble masonry because of its dilapidated condition. Presently, it’s difficult to specify the nature of the structure. On the slope of this structure many of the pottery fragments of redware have been found (Plate 3). The name Ranbirpur is a modern Dogra name. This site and Bon castle existence is mentioned in famous manuscripts and Gyalrabs available which prove the existence. A few ancient Indian personal names also have been preserved in folklore and inscriptions.
After the advent of Buddhism in Ladakh, during the reign of Ashoka around 3rd century B.C. when he was propagating Buddhism all over India and outside as well, It was Sthatira Madyammika with his followers who was deputed to Kashmir and Gandhara for teaching Buddhism. Buddhism in Ladakh in attributed to Ashoka. However till date no Archaeological remains of Ashokan period have been found in Ladakh region except the scanty remains of stupa (mchod-rten) at Teri (Plate 4), Changthang region of Leh District. This stupa of Teri is most fascinating Buddhist structure have I found in Ladakh during my research. Though the dissemination of teaching started from Kashmir side during Ashokan period. But it was more vigorous during the Kushana period. After Ashokan period the structural activity of Kushana period was more prolific. During the first century A.D, he also constructed a stupa named Kanika at Sani in Zanskar valley of Kargil District. When I went to the Sani to confirm whether it is really a early Buddhist stupa of Kanishka I was surprised to see the veneered, andh, yasti, chatravali akin to the stupas of other part of country of the same era (Plate 5).
My recent finding is first monastery of Ladakh. It was the emperor of Kashmir named Surendra who constructed a first vihara in 2nd century B.C beyond Zojila pass at Saurasa or present day Suru in Kargil District. It is mentioned in many books. The construction is attributed to Surendra, son of the King Khamendra. Till now, this site was not located by anyone. This is my recent finding and it is most fascinating monastic remains of Ladakh. This is located on the left bank of Suru River and left side of recent metallic road (Plate 6). After crossing a small dense jungle, approached to the top of the hillock where vihara is in ruins and debris of the monastery is scattered. From the top of the hillock entire Kargil can be viewed. Need to be investigated to get more information about the site.
Kargil is an important centre of Buddhism and we are getting numerous evidences from this region. During our recent excavation at Namsuru we excavated of three feet Avalokitesvara in the vicinity of the same vihara (Plate 7). Two more sculptures were already found a week before. Few kilometers away from a village there is a village called Tsangra where two more beautiful sculptures of Buddha and depiction of stupa (mchod-rten) on rock were found from the lower storey of an old house of Barsha by the locals. Largest rock relief Mulbek Maitreyas, Kartse Maitreya, Tumail/Apathi Maitreya are in Kargil region of Ladakh. Earliest Buddhist archaeological remains and recent findings substantiate that Kargil is archaeologically rich in Ladakh.
There is always confusion among people and unfortunately Ladakh is named as little Tibet and I contradict this point. The Westerners as well as some of the Indians also mention in their texts, that Ladakh was part of Tibet which seems absurd. There are several evidences which reveal that Ladakh was an independent state and it had nothing to do with Tibet. Even if we read the chronological order of kings of Ladakh, it shows that it had genealogical links with Ladakh only. It is said that king of Kosala (Bihar), Gsal-rgyal (Prasenajit), who was of Chomdandas (Buddha’s) family, had five sons. The third of them was suggested by a great Brahmin to send him to the snowy Northern regions who was later known as ‘Great Gna-khribtsan-po (Nari-stanpo). He was an ancestor of the Ladakhi kings mentioned in the following inscription. The time period of the Gna-khri-btsan-po’s (Narisanpo) was given different by different scholars. According to I.J. Schmidt’s 313 B.C., according to Schlaginiweit and S. Ch. Das; 416 B.C; before Buddha according to the Bon-pa chronicles. The sites like Phyang, Umla in Ladakh where Gna-khri-btsan-po’s (Nari-stanpo) constructed his castles are mentioned in many of the books. He also played a significant role in various aspects of life during his rule. He resided at the castle Phyi-dban-stag-rtse, this is the same village which is presently known as Phyang eight miles from Leh (Plate 8). At present it is empty shell with no roof, doors, windows. The castle is constructed in random rubble masonry technique and the material for this construction seems to have been brought from nearby area. At present Guru Lakhang is constructed on the side of the ruins. From the ruins, it is easy to trace that this castle was once a magnificent castle where from he his kingdom. Among his public works, he built the palace of Hum-bu-bla-sgan (Umla, eight miles from Phyang).
The ruin castle of Umla is also in the centre of the village and on the left side of the village settlement (Plate 9). Locals constructed latho on the side of the ruin. Apart from the early historic site, this is rich prehistoric site, because six cupil marks were found below the castle which is not found elsewhere in Ladakh and in Kashmir. A similar cupil mark has been found in Malangpur in Avantipur, Kashmir. This cupil marks helps us to understand that this area was used by early man as a factory for shaping their tools (Plate 10). Pot shred is common in Ladakh and reported from many sides in Ladakh which signifies historical period. Here in Umla for the first time the pottery has been found beneath the hillock. The pottery found in the area.
(The author is Assistant Archaeological in ASI)
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