Dr Jasbir Singh Sarna
From the ancient history to the modern times, walls have been a necessity of many cities and civilizations. The word ‘Fortis’ derived from the latin ‘fortis’ means strong. In this way fort, fortress and stronghold generally signifies military defense in warfare and military bases. Large forts are known as fortresses and smaller are fortalices.
Kashmir is popularly known as the heaven on earth. There are some heritage glorification sites including the forts of Kashmir and Ladakh.
Hariparbat Fort : The magnificant fort of Hari Parbat is three miles from the Srinagar city. This fort was built by the great Akbar during his 3rd tour to Kashmir in 1597. Present part along with complex gallaries were construted during the 18th century. According to Moorcraft, “at the same end, the eastern extremity of the city, is situated the hill called the Hariparbat at the southern foot of which is the Lake or Dal.. The Kohi-maran is surmounted by a long narrow fort, beneath the bastions of which on the edge of the rock, two or three large guns are mounted, which command the city. It may be doubted if the fortess itself could be furnished with canon, as it is entirely roofed over, and presents no appearance of embrasures. The slope of the hill is covered with houses. (Travels, P : 338).
When Baran Charles Hugel traveller visited the fort he writes, “At a miles’ distance, we passed the Hirne Parvat mountain, which terminates the semi circle round the lake on the west. We passed through dirty streets, interminable bazars, and over two canals, to the fort on the Harniparvat. At the foot of Harniparvat the great Akbar built another city, which is named Nagar Nagar and enclosed it with strong walls and towers. Blocks of stone and large Coloums, brought from the more ancient temples of Kashmir lie in desolate grandeur around.
“….The fort on the Harniparvat called Kimaran is garrisoned by Sikh troops, but as we drew near it we were challanged by the guard and ordered not to proceed any further, no to attempt to ascend the heights. It is built on the perpendicular rock and commands the entire city: it might be readered unassailable but for the total want of water on the mountain. The fortress was built under the Patans by the Governor Ali Mohmmad Khan, when he renounced the authority of Kabul. The Kashmirians and Sikhs presume or great deal on this fort; and even in its present state, it would be a most arduous undertaking to assail it, as the position of the valley ought to preclude the possibility of advance to artillery. (Travels, 1844 (Reprint 1970) P. 113-120).
There are many mythological stories linked with this fort. It is also known as the 52 pithas (Sarikadevi temple) of Hindus. Some linked it with a heritage of Rishi Kasyapa from whom name of Kasya Papura, or Kashmir derived. Hariparbat fort was also used as a ‘royal prisoner’ Shah Mahmud, Fateh Khan Shah Shuja detained in the Hariparbat Fort in 1811, is well known to history scholars. (The pathans-olaf caroe, P: 288).
According to R K Parmu, ‘’The military control of these forts vested in the Thanadars or Commandants who were invariably Sikhs. Sometimes Khatris and Brahmins possessing soldierly qualities and discipline also performed these duties. The fortified stations such as Hirapore, Bahramgalla Ganderbal, Drava Sharda Baramulla, Uri, Hattian, Chinari and Muzaffarabad, were strategically most important (A History of Sikh Rule in Kashmir, P : 282).
Shergarhi Fort : The Shergarhi fort is situated near the bridge of Amira Kadal, Srinagar. The fort was originally laid out by the Afghan Governor Amir Khan Jawansher (1770-76), on the site previously called Darabagh.
According to BC Hugel, “I have omitted a few words on Shaherghur, which derives its name, accordingly to the best authorities, not from Shaher city or Shir Lion, but from the Shiah, the Persian sect of Mohammadans. The Palace was built by Amir Khan Jehan and was called Nursing-ghur by the Sikhs.’’ (Travels in Kashmir and the Punjab, P : 120).
The Shergarhi fort serves the double purpose of a fort and a palace. “Originally, it was recangular in shape about 400 yards long and 200 yards wide. It was built of stones and mortar. Its walls were about 22 feet high, supported at intervals by strong bastions as we find in the rampart around the Hari Parbat fort. The interior consisted of dwelling houses, Government offices and barracks for soldiers. The southern, western and north western sides more protected by a ditch 30 feet wide. The northern side was bounded by the extant Kut-Kol canal, and the easternside by the Jehlum river and its stout embankment.’’ (Kashmir Handbook Mr Ince, P: 144).
The fort area was garrisoned by the Punjabi and Rhilla Soldiery who resided in the contonment. During Sikh rule, at Shahid Ganj, in the neighbourhood of the Shergarh fort, a new habitation to accommodate the Akalis was established. Here they lived, prayed and were everready for military service. Dewan Moti Ram, Sikh Governor renovated this fort. Lateron Col. Mian Singh Sikh Governor built Basant Bagh opposite the fort. Hari Singh Nalwa, the Sikh governor built a summer house with a white cupola on the banks of the river Jhelum between Shankaracharya Hillock and the Shergarh fort on a site lying between the extant Sri Partap College and the Nedous Hotel, Srinagar.’ (A History of Sikh Rule, P. 312).
When the Sikhs captured this fort in 1819, Dewan Chand and other Sikh Governors used it as residence. Col. Mian Singh constructed a beautiful Diwani-i-Aam hall, one big bazar, barracks, Rang Mahal, Gole House etc.
Zorawar Fort, Ladakh : Zorawar Singh (1786-1841) Rajput was a military general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who conquered Ladakh and Baltistan in the Sikh times and carried the Khalsa flag as far as the interior of Tibet. About Zorawar Singh’s place of birth authorities differ. He was a native of Kussal, Reasi (Major G C Symth); Kahlur, Bilaspur (Hutchison & Vogel), Ansora, Kangra (Narsing Das Nargis). Zorawar Singh had to make two more incursions before Ladakh was annexed to the Sikh Kingdom in 1840. The same year, Zorawar Singh attacked Baltistan. Zorawar Singh next turned his attention towards Western Tibet. According to the ‘Umdat-ut-Twarikh’, this was the suggestion he proferred to Maharaja Ranjit Singh, when he in March 1836 waited on him at the village of Jandiala Sherkhan to pay nazarana. He told the Maharaja that he was ready to ‘Kindle the fires of fightings and by the grace of ever triumphant glory of the Maharaja, he would take possession (Tibet) of it.’’ The Maharaja, however, was not willing to allow him to undertake the adventure. Zorawar Singh had his chance in the time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s successor, Maharaja Sher Singh. The (Encyclopaedia of Sikhism, Vol IV P: 462). In 1841, he once again planned and attempted an invasion of Tibet through Ladakh. Unable to face the winter, the Dogra army could not fight well and were defeated. The Great Zorawar Singh General was finally killed near Taklakot on 21 December 1841.
The Zorawar fort was built by the General in April 1836, with the help of local material like clay, Sun dried bricks, stone, wood etc. The fort is spread on area of 27.17 acres of land. Inside the fort is a natural spring, a temple and a mosque was built by Zorawar Singh himself. The fort is surround by a moat 3-5 meters in depth. A small wooden bridge is situated near the entrance. A well demarcated stable is on the left made up of mud bricks. The aim of providing a base to sustains the troops in Ladakh is the main motto of General Zorawar Singh. The fort was occupied by 300 soldiers, 30 artillery men under the command of Dalel Singh. (Jammu & Kashmir Territories). The fort is surrounded by approximately 15 feet high boundary of Sun dried mud bricks wall. In the centre of the fort is a army parade ground.
Basgo Fort, Ladakh : Basgo is a historical town situated on bank of Indus river in Ladakh. Basgo fort was built in the 15th century. There is an existing heritage monastery as well as a collection of stupas and dilapidated fort ruins. Basgo is situated about 40 Kms west of Leh along the Srinagar way. It is known for its castle ruins and the adjoining royal temples spectacularly located on the rocks. The complex of buildings includes a ruined fortress dating from 15th century. Below the forts and temples are the small pretty villages. There is also a Tsemo Fort, a short distant away from the Basgo.
Kashmir is a priceless treasure house of heritage cum archological monuments. It is the duty of all to restore the pristine glory of these century old monuments and heritage sites.
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