Rubon Saproo
The Tirtha of Amareshvara or Amaranatha, known by its ‘ Kashmirian’ name as ‘Amburnath’ is the popular pilgrimage place situated at a considerable altitude of 17,300 feet in Amarnath mountains in the Anantnag district of Kashmir Valley. At Amarnath, there is a huge cave which contains naturally formed image of ‘Lord Shiva’ in the form of a ‘Ice-lingam’ where by its side are two other ice formations represent his consort Parvati and son Ganesha. The Amarnath yatra in the month of ‘Sharavan’ attracts pilgrims , not only from Jammu and Kashmir but from all parts of India.The main purpose of this yatra is to have holy vision of ‘Lingam’ representing the Lord Shiva himself. There are two alternate ways to the cave shrine-the traditional and popular route of Phalgham and the route of Baltal.The ‘Chhari Mubark’ is carried along an extended route of Phalgham.
The Shivlingam
The Amarnath Cave is a famous Hindu Shrine and is the abode of Lord Shiva. In this huge cave, there is a ‘lingam’ formed by the freezing of water which oozes from the rock. It is worshipped as a self-created ‘Svayambhu’ Linga and is considered the embodiment of Shiva Amreshvar. Although, the water percolates at many places inside the cave, but the drops of water fall one by one on ‘lingam’ freeze quickly. This process continues during May to August where atlast the ‘ Shiv-lingam’ attains its full height on the night of ‘Sharavan Purnima’ i.e, the full moon night of August and thereafter wanes gradually. The ‘icy-lingam’ which is the transmuted form of Lord Shiva has also been nomenclatured like ‘amresh’, ‘amreshwar’, ‘rasa-lingam’, ‘siddhi-lingam’, ‘buddhi-lingam,’ ‘shuddhi-lingam,’ ‘puratan buddhi-lingam’ and ‘pumsavan-lingam’.
The Holy Cave
Believed to be 5000 years old Shrine, the holy cave of ‘Amarnathji’ has an imperative religious significance. This is the cave which was chosen by holy trinity-Lord Shiva for narrating ‘secrecy of immortality and creation of universe’i.e, Amar Katha to his divine consort Parvati. The legend has that one day Parvati insisted Shiva to unveil the truth behind creation of this universe. The Shiva first refused but lateron seeing Parvati’s eagerness, he selected Amarnath Cave for disclosing to her all secrets of life and death.And in preparation to that Shiva first left his Nandi (the bull) at Phalgham, released moon from his hair (jata) at Chandanwari, snakes (nag) at Sheshnag and then left his son Ganesha at Mahagunas top. Further, he left five elements like air, water, fire, earth and sky at Panjtharni that make life possible. Finally, Shiva took rest in a cave and narrated all secrets of this universe to Parvati. The pair of pigeons quietly overheard the conversation between Lord Shiva and Parvati. But when Lord Shiva came to know about the presence of pigeons in the cave, he granted them the boon of immortality and since then the pigeons have made the cave their eternal abode.
The Legend
There are many legends associated with the discovery/rediscovery of Amarnath Cave, but the most admired is of a muslim shepherd, who is given a credit of discovering this holy cave. It is said on one summer day Adam Malik, a shepherd from Batkote Phalgham, must have lost his flocks and in search of them he wandered in pastures where he had unexpected glimpse of “the bull”. To his utter surprise, he ran and held tail of “ the bull” which took him to the holy cave . This made him overwhelmed with joy and on his return to home, he whispered to other shephereds about the cave. This resulted in discovery of holy cave which later became a place of pilgrimage for all believers.
A famous Kashmir historian, Kalhane also mentions in Rajtarangini regarding the Tirtha of Amareshvara(Amarnath).Kalhane writes, “ The Amareshvara yatra is directed to the famous cave of Amarnath situated at a considerable altitude.In it Shiva Amareshvar is believed to have manifested himself to the gods who entreated him for protection against death.”
The Pilgrimage
Though Amarnath pilgrimage(Yatra) is believed to be thousands of years old, but it started in an organized manner during the reign of the Dogra ruler Mahraja Gulab Singh.Pilgrims visit the shrine during 45 days before Sharavan Purnima, the day of Raksha Bandhan, in July-August. Their main purpose of visiting is to see the Lingam representing the Lord Shiva himself. In addition, there are many holy spots enroute to the Amarnath Cave via Phalgham. It includes Chandanwari, Pissu Top, Zoji Bal, Naga Koti, Sheshnag, Wawbal, Mahagunas, Rabibal,Poshpathri and Panjtarni. Devotees are often found taking dip in holy waters of Chandanwari, Sheshnag, Panjtarni and Amarvati before going for Shivlingam darshan. Some devotees particularly Sadhus are seen smearing white soil “Bhasam” found on banks of river Amarvati on their body to become pious.
The Chharhi Mubark
The ‘Chharhi Mubarak’ i.e, the holy mace of Lord Shiva, leading the annual pilgrimage is carried along traditional route of Phalgham.The ‘Chhari Mubark’ is a holy silver mace which epitomizes the mystical powers of Lord Shiva. The Dashnami Akhara at Budshah Chowk, Srinagar is an abode of the holy mace where from it is taken to the holy cave. As per the tradition and rituals, Shri Amarnathji Yatra commences with “Bhoomi Pujan” at Phalgham on Vyvas Purnima. The holy mace returns to its abode at Srinagar on the same day.However, the holy mace leaves for darshan via Phalgham on “ Nag Panchami”. The Chhari Mubarak is taken to several temples including Shankaracharya in Srinagar, Shiva temple at Pampore, Shiva temple Bijbehara ,Surya temple Martand and Ganesh temple Ganeshbal before it joins annual pilgrimage. After night halts at Phalgham, Chandanwari, Sheshnag and Panjtarni, the Chharhi Mubark finally pays obeisance at the shrine on the most auspicious day of Sharavan Purnima.
The Routes
There are two pilgrim routes to the holy cave: the traditional and popular route of Phalgham and the route of Baltal. One can take either of two routes.Phalgham is located at 96km from Srinagar.The distance between Phalgham and holy cave is about 46 kms. On the other hand, the distance from Baltal to Cave is 14 kms where Baltal is 97 km away from Srinagar.The trek from Phalgham to Amarnathji cave can be covered in three or four days with night halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag and Panchtarni while one can return on the same day via Baltal from the holy cave. Also, the distance of Srinagar- Chandanwari and Srinagar Baltal can be covered by road transport also. Moreover, the helicopter services are available on both the routes i.e Phalgham and Baltal.
The Organisers
The annual Amarnath Yatra is organised by the State Government in collaboration with Shri Amarnath Shrine Board. The government as well as private agencies provide necessary facilities to pilgrims all along the route during the yatra period.Many private organisations set up their ‘langers’ and supply food free of cost to the pilgrims. The tents erected by locals at many places enroute to the cave can be hired for night stays.The facility of telecommunication is available at fair price shops at many spots. The government also deploys security en route to the cave for the safety of pilgrims.