Srinagar’s culinary street survives turbulent times, attracts foodies

Food being prepared in Srinagar street, Batt Gali, ahead of lunch time. -Excelsior/Mahpara Bisati
Food being prepared in Srinagar street, Batt Gali, ahead of lunch time. -Excelsior/Mahpara Bisati

Mohd Saqib/
Mahpara Bisati
SRINAGAR, Feb 17: Tucked into a narrow lane off Lal Chowk, where the scent of rice, spices and slow-cooked meat drifts through the air before noon, Srinagar’s historic Batt Gali carries on much as it always has.
Modest in appearance but rich in history, the food street has been feeding the city quietly and consistently since 1967.
What began as a cluster of small eateries has grown into one of Lal Chowk’s most recognisable food corners, now run by the third generation of shopkeepers.
Office-goers, shoppers, tourists and families continue to stream in, especially between 12:30 pm and 3 pm, when queues spill out of the compact shops. Most outlets shut by 6 pm, though a few operate until 11 pm on rotation basis.
“The food street has been operating since 1967 and is now run by the third generation,” said Yasir Dharma, who has been associated with the area for years.
“Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food is available here, depending on customer demand.”
Local preferences, he said, have hardly shifted. “Most locals prefer paneer and rice, served with vegetables and dal,” he added.
Affordability remains central to Batt Gali’s appeal. A plate of vegetable rice costs Rs 50, paneer rice Rs 70, rista rice Rs 100, meat rice Rs 150 and kebab rice Rs 120 – prices that stand in sharp contrast to most restaurants in the city centre.
“There is no compromise on quality,” Dharma said. “We prepared the food ourselves earlier and continue to do so. The quality has remained the same since we started.”
For many regulars, the draw goes beyond cost. Hameed-ul-Haq, who travels from Bandipora, has been visiting since the 1980s.
“The food is so tasty that one can eat as much as he wants,” he said. “The taste has always remained the same.”
He recalls knowing the shopkeepers since their childhood.
“Even those who do not have much money can afford to eat here,” he added. “I have known the shopkeepers since their parents’ time, when they were children.”
In a city where cafés and themed restaurants have steadily reshaped food culture, Batt Gali has resisted reinvention.
There are no digital menus or curated interiors – only familiar flavours and recipes passed down through decades.
As Lal Chowk evolves, this narrow lane continues to anchor itself in routine, serving meals that many insist taste exactly as they did years ago.