SEM tech to boost pashmina authenticity testing

Artisan processing fine threads of pashmina at a workshop in Srinagar. -Excelsior/Shakeel
Artisan processing fine threads of pashmina at a workshop in Srinagar. -Excelsior/Shakeel

Nawshaba Iqbal

Srinagar, Dec 31: The Handicrafts and Handloom Department, Kashmir, is set to introduce Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) technology to strengthen authentication of high-value Kashmir crafts.
The target crafts include GI-labelled products such as pashmina, carpets, and Sozni embroidery.
Director Handicrafts and Handloom, Mussarat Zia, told Excelsior that SEM will be deployed in cases where existing digital and optical testing tools cannot conclusively verify product originality.
“SEM allows clear identification of whether yarns are hand-spun and hand-woven, which is critical for certification,” Zia said.
He noted that the department currently relies on authorised testing facilities.
These facilities include the Pashmina Testing and Quality Certification Centre (PTQCC) at the Craft Development Institute and the Indian Institute of Carpet Technology (IICT).
“At PTQCC, we use equipment such as the Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA 4000), which magnifies fibres up to 1,000 times to verify pashmina quality,” he said, stressing, SEM will further strengthen this process.
The department examines threads, yarns, and finished products for fibre composition, colour structure, and weaving methods before issuing QR-based GI labels.
“Certification is done only after scientific verification,” Zia emphasized.
Highlighting the need for such measures, he said, “Some pashmina and sozni products take several years to complete and are made for specific international buyers.”
He cited hand-embroidered sozni shawls where multiple colours are used within small surfaces, requiring magnification for verification. “This level of detail cannot be replicated by machines,” he added.
The move aims to protect Kashmir’s reputation in global markets and prevent the misrepresentation of products.
“Authentication ensures that genuine artisans and exporters are not affected by fake products,” Zia said.
He added that continued investment in testing, monitoring, and certification will remain central to safeguarding the handicrafts and handloom sector.