Tsewang Rigzin
LEH, May 13: Nestled in the snowcapped high mountains of Ladakh, Chemrey Monastery stands as a testament to Tibetan Buddhist traditions, spiritual discipline and cultural heritage. Often referred to as “Little Tibet,” Ladakh is home to hundreds of monasteries representing the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism.
Located approximately 40 kilometers east of Leh, Chemrey Monastery belongs to the Drukpa monastic order. It was founded in 1664 by Lama Tagsang Raspa and dedicated to King Sengge Namgyal. The monastery houses a magnificent statue of Padmasambhava and holds a valuable collection of scriptures, including a volume written in silver and gold letters—both major highlights.
The monastery continues to remain a vibrant spiritual hub, housing over 100 monks.
Among its most revered is 72-year-old Gelong Ngawang Gyatso, who has dedicated nearly his entire life to the monastery. Having taken monastic vows at a young age, he has served in some of the highest positions within the monastery, including Chakzot, Umzat, and Cham Spon—the monk responsible for leading sacred mask dances (chams) performed during monastic festivals. He also worked with the Ladakh Gompa Association and was involved with the Ladakh Buddhist Association at some point.
Reflecting on cultural reforms, Ngawang Gyatso notes a significant shift in ritual practices. “In earlier times, meat was commonly offered during household pujas,” he says. “But now, following the advice of Skyabgon Lama Tagsang Raspa and the guidance of Skyabgon Gyalwang Drukpa and Skyabje Thuksey Rinpoche, the use of meat has been completely banned during such religious ceremonies.”
One of the cherished traditions of Chemrey Monastery is the ‘ngondro practice’—a rigorous meditation retreat undertaken for extended periods. These retreats are both training grounds and transformative experiences, producing highly realized yogis such as Yogi Padma Chosgyal.
Even at his advanced age, Gelong Ngawang Gyatso continues his daily spiritual practices. Rising early, he engages in rituals, offerings, and meditation—now with more time to deepen his practice after being relieved of administrative duties.
His life reflects the enduring spirit of Ladakh’s monastic culture—a blend of devotion, discipline, and compassionate leadership. As Ladakh evolves, the legacy of monks like Ngawang Gyatso ensures that the spiritual heartbeat of the region remains strong and vibrant.
He recalls, “At a very young age, my mother decided to make me a monk, and I was given the name Ngawang Gyatso by Lama Tagsang Raspa. By the age of 13, I had completed the ‘Thangwa Gyutpei Chakgyut’ prayer. I also undertook a ‘ngondro retreat’, completing a four-month session at the Kotsang Retreat Center.”
Speaking about the great tradition of yogis, he cites Dupon Padma Chosgyal from Chemrey village, who became a renowned yogi and attracted students from across the Himalayas, including Kham in Tibet and Bhutan.
Chemrey Monastery holds an annual monastic festival called Chemrey Wangchok, typically celebrated in autumn. “During my childhood,” he says, “many people used to come for Chemrey Wangchok. They would travel from faraway places like Nubra and Roong on foot, spending several days on the road. They would camp at Chemrey, spending many more days praying and receiving blessings through the festival’s sacred mask dances.”
Monks at Chemrey Monastery share a common kitchen, where meals are prepared for all. Most spend their entire lives in the monastery and are cared for in old age or when unwell. However, if a monk has specific health issues, he may have a separate kitchen to meet dietary needs.
Ngawang Gyatso observes, “The good thing is that today, many people contribute to the monastery’s development, and we now have many quality monks, if not in quantity.”
He resides in a Dashaq—a monk’s residence passed down through several generations.
A day in the life of a monk at Chemrey Monastery begins before dawn with morning prayers in a common assembly. After performing pujas and reciting sacred texts, monks gather for a simple breakfast. The rest of the day is spent in scriptural studies, debates, or ritual preparations, depending on each monk’s role and level of training. On auspicious occasions, monks assemble in the main prayer hall for day-long prayers. They also visit private households to perform rituals when needed.
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