Tsewang Rigzin
DRASS, Jan 22: Smiling faces with a humble and simple nature greet you as you enter Drass, a snow-covered town known as the second coldest inhabited place on earth. Drass is located in the Kargil district of the Union Territory of Ladakh at an altitude of 10800 feet, along the Ladakh-Srinagar National Highway, just 38 kilometres from Zojila Pass, earning it the title of the ‘Gateway to Ladakh’.
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Despite its harsh and inhospitable conditions, a progressive human culture has thrived here for centuries. Residents are known for their hospitality, often asking travellers and guests if they feel comfortable and wishing them a safe journey.
Drass experiences long, freezing winters, with snowfall sometimes recording as high as 10 to 12 feet, burying single-story buildings under snow. January 1995 was a particularly harsh winter when temperatures plummeted to -60°C, making it one of the coldest winters in memory. Abdul Rahim Sabiri, a 59-year-old resident, recalled: “I have seen 12 feet of snowfall in my life in Drass. During winter in 1995, even magpies, which are non-migratory birds, could not survive. They died of freezing. Most other birds migrated to other places in the country during winter months.” In recent decades, however, snowfall has significantly decreased. At the moment, Drass has a snowfall of just one foot.
The changing climate worries farmers like Ghulam Rasul, 58, who said, “Snowfall is decreasing every year, and it could put farmers in trouble. We grow only barley, which has been our staple crop for centuries, but it is just one crop a year.” He lamented that younger generations prefer modern dishes like rice and lentils, while elderly residents still cherish traditional foods made from barley. Another resident, Issa Mohd, shared similar concerns, recalling his childhood when snow would cover almost all single-storey buildings. “I have seen 6 to 8 feet of snowfall in my life but now even that is rare.”
This year the minimum temperature recorded was -24.9°C on 10th January.
In the past, people of Drass practiced traditional woolen handloom crafts like Nabu and Chhali. However, Abdul Rahim Sabiri noted that these crafts are now disappearing as modern garments have become readily available in markets and other economic opportunities have diverted people from traditional practices.
During the harsh winter months, residents have little to do, as the tourism industry, which many depend on, comes to a standstill.
Most guest houses, hotels and other tourism-related businesses remain closed. However, some residents find year-round employment with the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) or as porters for the Army. Winter sports such as ice hockey, snow skiing, and archery competitions help keep the community engaged. Mohammad Amin, a famous local sportsman known for his skills in polo and ice hockey, highlights these activities as vital to winter life in Drass.
Educationally, the residents of Drass have made significant progress. The area has a degree college, two higher secondary schools, and many primary, middle, and high schools, along with reputed private schools.
However, all schools remain closed throughout Ladakh during the winter months due to the extreme cold, making it difficult for children to attend classes.
Healthcare, particularly for women, remains a significant challenge in Drass. Although there is a sub-district hospital in the area, the absence of specialists like gynecologists and surgeons often forces patients to travel over 60 kilometers to Kargil for treatment. The situation worsens when snow blocks the roads between Kargil and Drass, delaying critical care.
Mohammad Amin and Journalist Saleem of the Drass Online said that one of the main issues that people in winter in Drass face is the shortage of medical specialists like gynaecologist and surgeon. Abdul Waheed, a Councillor in the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council from the Bimbat Drass constituency, explained, “Women’s health is a serious issue due to the lack of gynecologists, which affects pregnant women and lactating mothers.”
Residents of Drass use wood, some sourced locally and others transported from Srinagar, along with cow dung as fuel for their bukhari stoves to keep warm during the freezing winter months. Nowadays, with improved electricity supply, heaters are also used by some to warm rooms. The water supply provided through the Jal Jeevan Mission (JJM) has brought significant relief to the people, as most taps are still functioning, although some are reportedly defunct.
Despite these challenges, residents of Drass are optimistic about the future. The Government of India’s announcement granting Drass the status of a new district has been met with widespread happiness. Abdul Rahim Sabiri felt this decision will bring many benefits including job opportunities for the unemployed youth. The estimated population of Drass is around 30,000 and residents are hopeful that district status will lead to improved infrastructure and services. Hospitality remains a defining trait of the people of Drass. Even during the harshest winters, they never fail to invite strangers and guests for tea or food making them feel at home. Drass, with its breathtaking beauty and resilient people, continues to leave a lasting impression on those who visit, embodying warmth and strength in one of the coldest places on Earth.
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