Seva Ram Parihar
varinsem@gmail.com
In the heart of Jammu and Kashmir’s Doda district, hidden among the rugged hills where the Chenab River hums its ancient hymn, lay a forgotten treasure – a cluster of rock carvings weathered by centuries of silence. Locals had walked past them for generations, calling them panch pandavas, without realizing their voice. They had survived rain, erosion, and time itself, but not indifference. It wasn’t until a small group of curious minds – guided by visionary bureaucrats Vishesh Paul Mahajan (ex-DC Doda and A/P Transport Commissioner, J&K) Suresh Kumar Gupta (PCCF, J&K), Sanjeev Verma (Chief Electoral Officer, J&K), Harvinder Singh (DC Doda) looked closer that the stones began to speak again.
This is the story of how a community reignited its past – not for fame, not for fortune, but to remember who they were.
Discovery
It began on an ordinary afternoon. I was hiking through the slopes near Shiva Dal (also called Shiva Pull after the newly constructed motorable bridge over Chenab leading to tehsil Mohalla). An elder pointed toward a rock boulder face marked with engravings – figures resembling that of shivlings. “These are from the time of the Pandavas,” he said, his tone both reverent and uncertain.
That simple remark kindled something deep within me. The site was situated near the bank of river Chenab. I actually went down near the bank and took photographs, to my surprise I found a pair of nandi bulls facing each other carved beautifully on stone. Also, a carving of Gajaraj (elephant) on the big boulder. Something about them felt ancient.
I began to research obsessively about ancient rock art online. Cross-referencing patterns, I found similarities with 9th-century rock art. Each symbol was a whisper from the ancestors, telling us we once had artisans, chroniclers, and storytellers who carved their beliefs into stone.
Mobilization
The first challenge was not research – it was people. Convincing the community that these ancient rocks mattered was harder than convincing scholars. Many villagers shrugged, saying, “We have more urgent issues – roads, schools, crops.”
But slowly, one by one, curiosity grew. The elders came with stories. “My grandfather said these rocks were sacred,” one villager shared. We documented every tale, every recollection.
The turning point came when then DC Doda, Vishesh Paul Mahajan ( A/P Transport Commissioner, J&K) visited our tehsil headquarters Mohalla for a government program (block diwas).Just a few meters away from the program site, was situated an ancient and rare EK Mukhi Shiv temple. He visited the temple and somehow got the inspiration from Mahadev. He gave a motivational talk on the topic, cultural heritage and stressed for its revival and preservation.
Soon, volunteers from nearby areas joined in. We formed a small but determined collective group (mandir samiti) with the primary objective of reviving our heritage sites. We called ourselves Heritage Hands of Doda.
Struggles
Success never walks in straight lines. Funding was scarce; recognition scarcer. We faced skepticism – “What difference does it make?” “Who cares about old carvings?” Even friends warned me, “You’re wasting your time.”
But the stones had already chosen us. On weekends, we gathered to photograph every detail for documentation. It wasn’t glamorous work, but it was sacred. We pitched stories in social media, met district officers, and prepared reports citing cultural and tourism potential.
We were not archaeologists or bureaucrats; we were people reclaiming identity. Each setback tested our faith, but also hardened our resolve.
Breakthrough
Then, one day, the breakthrough arrived – a team of officials from The Department of Archives, Archaeology & Museums was on a visit to a far away place in the Gandoh area of Doda district. Somehow, Vishesh Paul Mahajan ji requested the team to visit Mohalla as well on their way back to explore these ancient rock art, explaining its patterns and possible links to ancient Indian epics.
The Department of Archives, Archaeology & Museums took notice. A cultural heritage officer remarked, “If this is 9th-century rock art, it’s among the earliest in northern India.”
Social Media attention brought not just validation, but also responsibility. We realized that this wasn’t just about protecting stones – it was about reviving identity. The carvings were now mirrors, reflecting the soul of Doda.
Revival Process
Experts confirmed that the carvings likely dated back to the early medieval period, possibly linked to traditions as old as the Mahabharata. The site was officially catalogued.
We invited regional artists to create paintings inspired by the carvings. Our initiative featured on various social media handles, giving the site national visibility.
The community began to take pride. For the first time in decades, villagers began to speak about the rocks with reverence again – not as relics, but as heritage reborn.
Reflection
Standing there today, among the silent stones, I often think about what we really revived. Was it just the art – or the sense of belonging that the art carried?
Every groove, every chisel mark carved centuries ago was now part of our collective heartbeat. We had turned apathy into action, skepticism into pride. And somewhere between the noise I realized something profound: heritage isn’t about the past; it’s about remembering who we still are.
There’s a humility in preservation – in realizing that we are custodians, not owners. The people who carved these stones never imagined our world, yet they trusted that someone, someday, would care enough to look. We became that someone.
Outcome
Today, the Doda rock art site stands protected, documented, and celebrated. It is a registered cultural point of interest, which will draw visitors, researchers, and storytellers. More importantly, it has reignited pride within the community. Also, the annual Charri Mubarak of Mata Machail Yatra passes through this site and makes a brief stopover here as we organize 2-day langar seva for the yatris.
The Department of Archives, Archaeology & Museums has approved the revival of this site in their “Scheme for Revival, Restoration, Preservation and Maintenance of the Architecture and Heritage in the Union Territory of Jammu & Kashmir”.
Closing Note
The revival of Doda’s rock art is more than a preservation project; it is a testament to belief – belief that history matters, that culture connects, that memory survives. When people stand together for something greater than themselves, even time listens.
The revered stones no longer sleep in silence. They watch us now – proud, patient, eternal – whispering through their ancient lines: You remembered us. Now, remember yourselves.
(The author is President of the Ek Mukhi Mandir Samiti, Mohalla, Doda)
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