Tribal Life in Dhoks and Margs

K D Maini

kdmainipoonch@gmail.com

Most of the people of the Pir Panchal range have still preserved the centuries-old tribal lifestyle, unique cultural heritage, distinct folklore, habits, hobbies, and tastes. They migrate to the high pasture lands in the beginning of the summer season from the lower areas towards the Dhoks, Margs, and high pasture lands around the Kashmir Valley, such as the Pir Panchal range in the north of Poonch-Rajouri, Qazi Nag in Uri and Karnah, Gurez and Talel in the Kangan mountains, Aru in Pahalgam, and Kokernag in Anantnag. After spending the summer season in these high pasture lands, they return to their native villages with the onset of autumn.

The Pir Panchal is one of the important mountain ranges of J&K that divides the Kashmir Valley from the Jammu province. The whole terrain is a combination of snow-capped peaks, mighty mountains, green forests, lovely lakes, glaciers, crystal-clear streams, milky waterfalls, valleys, gardens, Dhoks (a cluster of hutments), Margs (meadows at an altitude ranging from 9,000 feet and above), high pasture lands, healthy people, and an attractive lifestyle.

There are numerous peaks in this region, such as Tata Kutti (15,560 feet), Girjan Chotti (12,013 feet), Rattan Pir (8,500 feet), Kuth Gali (12,600 feet), Darhali Gali (13,460 feet), Chor Gali (13,436 feet), Haji Pir (8,600 feet), and Nil Kanth (12,000 feet). There are charming Dhoks and Margs located at the base of these peaks at altitudes ranging from 8,300 feet to 14,000 feet. As per one estimate, 735 Dhoks and Margs exist in the Pir Panchal range. Some of the important Dhoks and Margs are Tata Kutti Marg, Nain Sukh Marg, Noorpur Marg, Pir Marg, Nandan Sar Dhok, Khouan, Panchtari, Girjan, Sari Mangiaya, and Sari Mastan Dhoks. These Dhoks and Margs remain under snow cover and uninhabited for about six months during the winter season.

In the beginning of spring, when the snow melts from the upper reaches of the Dhoks and Margs, the Gujjar and Bakerwal tribes start pouring into these nature-blessed areas with their animals, flocks of sheep, herds of goats, fleets of horses, cattle, dogs, baggage, and luggage to spend the summer season in these attractive and charming scenic spots and pastures of the Pir Panchal range.

While proceeding towards the Dhoks, mothers place infants on their backs in cloth bags, while the young people collect leaves and hay for the feed of the cattle during the journey. Aged women and men travel on loaded horses. Normally, the caravan halts near riverbanks during the night, lights campfires, cooks meals, and sleeps in the open. Early the next morning, they again begin the tiresome journey towards the Dhoks and Margs. Many times, the caravan encounters hailstorms in which their cattle and flocks perish.

Apart from the Gujjars, the Bakerwal tribes of the Poonch and Rajouri districts migrate to the Dhoks and Margs during the summer season. They have their own Dhoks and Margs where they shift along with their Qabilas and families and move in the form of caravans.

Bakerwals are an offshoot of the Gujjar tribe. The majority of them are nomadic. They rear only sheep and goats and remain wandering in the upper reaches. They live in tented colonies, while their flocks are kept in a Bara (an open place enclosed by a stone wall). Their livelihood depends upon the production of wool, mutton, blankets, skins, etc.

Gujjars mostly rear cattle such as buffaloes, cows, and goats, and stay in Dharas (one-room hutments made of wood, mud, and stones with an open front). They have their own Dhoks and Margs. Normally, three to five families live in one Dhara in the centre of a forest area. There is no road communication, administration, security agency, school, health facility, power supply, or water supply available in this area.

Gujjars, Bakerwals, and Paharis live jointly in these Dhoks and Margs in a very congenial and peaceful atmosphere. They are encamped in Dharas. The whole family sleeps on a large cot known as a Dangi. Normally, a thick layer of green leaves from a particular bush is spread on the Dangi under blankets and used as a bed.

Their breakfast comprises saltish tea, Sattus (baked maize flour), or maize bread. After breakfast, the elders drink lassi (shaken curd without butter) and leave for the forest to collect leaves for the cattle. The youth (both male and female) spread across the pastures along with the cattle and flocks. While the cattle graze in the pastures, the youth enjoy playing the Algoza (flutes), while the young girls sing folk songs.

The housewives collect wild vegetables or remain busy churning curd, collecting butter, and making Kalaris (a special type of cheese). The aged women remain busy doing embroidery work on their caps, known as Tajkastani Caps. The young women also keep themselves busy styling their hair. They make a large number of plaits, which take almost a full day to weave. This is usually done once a month.

The aged men engage themselves in shearing wool from sheep with special scissors. The children, of course, enjoy games such as Panja, Bihni (a power game), and Panj Gitti.

The young members (both male and female) return from the pastures before sunset. The elders also return carrying bags of grass and leaves, while the women bring herbs and vegetables. Then the flocks and cattle are gathered near the Dharas within a compound wall to protect them from wild animals during the night. The aged persons milk the cattle, while the youth look after them. Meanwhile, the dogs keep barking to protect the livestock from wild animals.

The family takes dinner immediately after sunset. Dinner generally consists of curry, rice, maize bread, vegetables, and mutton. On important occasions, the tribes take rice with curd and sugar. During festivals and marriages, they prepare non-vegetarian dishes and enjoy the feast.

After dinner, they relish wild fruits available in the Dhoks, such as Bhacanas (wild strawberries) and Gruchh, which the young girls collect during the daytime from the pasture areas. After relaxing for a while, they light a campfire outside the Dhara, and the families sit around it to narrate the day's happenings and discuss the problems of the Qabila.

The family members then request the eldest person to recite Sufiyana Kalam (devotional songs). The aged persons sing Sufiyana Kalams for a long time during the night. This night session is very amusing and thrilling, as the families sit in the open around the campfire under the moonlight and enjoy the peaceful nights of the Dhoks and Margs.

After the night session, the children, aged persons, and women sleep on the Dangi, while the young men remain awake in turns to watch over the cattle and protect them from wild animals.

Their dress in the Dhoks is interesting and picturesque. Their clothing is suited to the climatic conditions of the area. The male members normally wear shalwars (trousers), long shirts, turbans on their heads, keep blankets on their shoulders, and carry sticks in their hands. The women wear trousers, long shirts, and keep a dupatta on their heads.

They celebrate their festivals with a tribal flavour. Their hobbies are riding and singing Sufiyana Kalam. Their favourite musical instruments are the Algoza, Banjli, and Jodi. They also conduct bullfights and ram fights for their amusement. Their favourite dishes are saltish tea, Sattus (baked maize flour), lassi, mutton, wild vegetables, etc. The majority of them believe in the Pir system (holy persons). They invite Pir Sahib to their colonies for Nayaz and receive blessings in the form of Tawiz and Phook (the blowing of breath by a holy man on an object). They presume that, with the blessings of Pir Sahib, their cattle remain safe from wild animals, produce more milk, and remain healthy in the Dhoks.

The old traditions are disappearing as most of the Gujjar and Bakerwal tribes have embraced modern life. The majority of these tribes have stopped going to the Dhoks and Margs and have settled once and for all in the plains, becoming part of the modern lifestyle. Therefore, there is a need to preserve this nature-blessed lifestyle, old traditions, and cultural heritage through documentaries so that the new generations may know about the original heritage of the Pir Panchal range.

Nowadays, the tribal people are gradually embracing a modern lifestyle, and most of them prefer to live in their villages. However, the Bakerwal community still migrates regularly to the high pasture lands as part of its traditional way of life. These tribal people face many problems while shifting their animals and flocks to the upper reaches because they do not get sufficient fodder for their animals during the transit period.

Keeping these constraints in view, about two years ago, the J&K Government started transporting their families and animals by vehicles from the nearest stations up to the Dhoks. However, at present, these facilities are not available. The Government is providing a number of other facilities to these tribal people in the Dhoks and high pasture areas, including mobile schools for their children, medical camps, veterinary camps in the Dhoks and Margs, and the provision of tarpaulins and solar lights.

Apart from these facilities, the Government is also establishing Bakerwal Bastis near bushy areas where fodder for the flocks is available so that the tribal people can settle there. On the other hand, after the declaration of the Gujjar-Bakerwal community as a Scheduled Tribe after 1991, families have become more interested in educating their children in Gujjar-Bakerwal hostels and availing themselves of reservation benefits.

With the efforts of the Government, including the opening of Gujjar-Bakerwal hostels, the provision of scholarships for their children, and reservation in employment, they have now started their journey towards progress and prosperity.