Yatra to Sharda Shrine

K.D Maini
With the opening of Kartarpur Sahib Corridor for Sikh pilgrims of India, Kashmiri Pandits have expressed the desire that both India and Pakistan should allow devotees to visit Sharda Shrine in PoK which was one of the most scared places for them.
“Welcome that India and Pakistan have agreed to create seven kilometers long corridor from Dera Baba Nanak to Kartarpur Sahib Gurdwara, a similar arrangement should be made for the pilgrims of Sharda Peeth” said Vinod Pandita, Chairman All Party Migrant Coordination Committee. The former Chief Ministers Omar Abdullah and Mehbooba Mufti also hailed the decision of opening Kartarpur Sahib corridor across the border and proposed for a such corridor for Kashmiri Pandits to visit Sharda Shrine located in the foothills of Nanga Parbat on the confluence of Neelam (Krishan Ganga) river, Madhumati and Sargun streams in between Narda and Sharda Hills in Neelam District of PoK which is opposite to Kupwara District of J&K state. Recently while interacting with journalists Pakistan Prime Minister Imran Khan said “we can consider other proposals including travel of devotees for Sharda Shrine across LoC.” Last year Raja Nazar Bonharvi of Uri, a renowned writer had gone to PoK to meet his relatives and also visited Sharda Shrine. He told that the Muslim natives of Sharda and Narda villages were eager to welcome the pilgrims of Sharda shrine. A local writer of Sharda village Abdul Gani has already written a book on the history of Sharda which he wants to present the pilgrims. Some activists of Sharda village have also established links with a Delhi based Kashmiri Pandit organization working for the opening of Sharda Shrine (Temple of Maa Sarswati) which was one of the 18 highly important shrines across South Asia once at par with Nalanda and Takhsila. It would be the biggest CBM on the LoC to bring the people of two parts of Kashmir closer to each other and fulfill the aspirations of Hindu devotees especially Kashmiri Pandits.
If both the countries India and Pakistan agree, then a corridor to Sharda Shrine for Hindu pilgrims is possible. There are two routes directly leading towards Sharda across LoC from Kupwara. The first route which was popular before 1947 is via Kupwara, Chokibal, Tangdar (Karnah) and Teetwal upto Neelam River which is the LoC between the two parts of Kashmir in that area. Presently, a Pacca road is available upto Teetwal. After 2005, a crossing point was established for divided families at Teetwal and a foot-bridge was constructed to cross the Neelam river i.e. LoC to reach Chaliana village of PoK on the other side. From Chaliana, Sharda is about 47 kms by road in the northern side. To reach Sharda via this route, the pilgrims have to stay at Tangdar or Teetwal for a night and next morning they can cross footbridge and reach Chaliana on the other side. From this place, there is about two hours journey by road to reach Sharda. By this way the pilgrims can reach Sharda at about 11:00 am. Then after having a dip in the holy Madhumati river, offering prayer at Sharda Shrine and having view of scenic beauty of Sharda and Narda, they can leave Sharda at 4:00pm and return to Teetwal on this side.
The second and shortest route leading towards Sharda is via Karan sector. A journey can start from Kupwara and after crossing Trahgram, Karalpura, Farkkian top one can reach Karan village by road right upto Neelam river which is the LoC. A footbridge is required to cross Neelam river and then reach the village ‘Neelam’ or Athmukam in PoK on the other side. The Sharda Shrine is only 15 kms from Athmukam and 40 minutes journey on vehicle. The pilgrims can stay at night at Kupwara or Farkkian top on this side and next morning they can cross Neelam River (LoC) reach Sharda. After visiting the Temple and having prayer, they can return back to Karan village on this side in the evening. The above said two routes are convenient to cross the LoC and visit Sharda Shrine through a corridor.
The annual Yatra of Sharda Temple was conducted from the ancient time. During Dogra rule after 1846 this Yatra had become a regular feature. The Yatra of Sharda Devi would start on Shukal Pakash during the month of August (Bhadun). The devotees would commence their yatra on 4th Bhadun and on 8th they would take a dip in the Sharda Kund on the bank of Maghumati River and after giving Sharad to their Pitras (deceased relatives) they were having the Darshan of Sharda Goddess. Mostly Kashmiri Pandits were conducting the Yatra after traveling hundreds of miles on foot. Mr. C.E Bats, the author of the Gazetter of the Kashmir who had visited the spot in 1872 AD writes that the Sharda Tempe is situated at the confluence of river Madhumati and Kishan Ganga. The temple is approached by a stair case about nine feet wide of steep stone steps some 63 in numbers having on either side a massive balustrade. The entrance was through a double porch way at the south-west corner of enclosure. The walls of the enclosure are about 30 feet high. In the middle of the walls in the north side is an arched recess which contains Lingum. The Cella about 23 feet square stands on the elevated plinth about four feet from the present level of ground. The entrance is on the west side facing the porch way. On each of the other three sides of Cella, a single roof was erected over the building for the protection. This work was executed on the order of Colonel Gundu, the Late Zaildar of Muzafarabad. The interior of the temple is square and perfectly plain. On the ground lies a large rough slab of unpolished stone which is said to have been disturbed by Raja Manzoor Khan of Karnah in search of treasure. In those days, the Shrine was venerated by Hindus and Muslims. The priets at that time had told C.E Bats that whosoever approached it with a pure heart what ever his religion, obtained the fruition of his petitions. There was also a fort constructed by Dogras with 60 Dogra Constables stationed for the protection of Shrine and defence of the area. The ancient Shrine was about 400 yards in the south of the fort.
In the ancient time, Sharda was famous all over India. The historic facts reveal that near the Shrine there was a Buddhist University established during the period of Emperor Ashoka (273BC) known as Sharda Peeth, to spread the teachings and thoughts of Buddhism in Kashmir and other hilly regions. The foundation of Sharda Peeth was laid on the bank of Madhumati River. The fourth Buddhist council was summoned at this place by Emperor Kanishka in 141 AD.
Kalhana writes in Rajtarangani that in 11th century AD it was a temple of Sharda Goddess. Historian Bilhana writes in Vikrama Chiriter that he has been educated only due to the blessings of Sharda Goddess whose crown was formed with the gliterring gold collected from the river Madhumati. Al Bruni who visited India in 1036 AD writes in his book ‘India’ that there is a great image of Sharda and devotees assemble here for the pilgrimage. Abu-ul-Fazal in Aain-e-Akbari writes that on the bank of Madhumati in Drava area of Muzafarabad there is a stone temple of Sharda Devi. Every month on the Shukal Pakash the image of the Sharda starts showing miracles. The temple is respected by large population. Therefore, it appears that upto 16th century AD this temple was having great religious importance.
After the turmoil of 1947 and earthquake of 2007 the Shrine is in dilapidated condition. The ruins of old monument are sufficient to narrate the old glory and glamor of this Shrine. The Supreme Court of PoK has already given land mark judgment on the preservation of the ruins of Sharda Shrine but no attention has been paid by the administration of that area for the restoration of this historic monument.

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