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The
sacred shrine of Sudhmahadev

G L Khajuria
Mans quest in search of God
and his multihued manifestations began with the
dawn of civilization and we Indian are of firm
belief of all those manifestations of the
beholder and attribute in its entirety of natural
and supernatural myths and
legends which speak in divinity
tones, the truth of the remote past of millionia.
And our sub-Himalayan regions lap in such
beautious, enhanting abodes of Gods and Godesses
in almost the entire terrain of the Himalayan
region where pilgrims of all hues throng in huge
number from India and abroad to seek bliss, peace
and ultimate truth in our sacred shrines where
rainbow-like colours radiate from the inner core
of deepest rather darkest shadows of hidden
treasure trove of instinctive privation.
Amongest such sacred shrines is the
abode of Lord Shiva at Sudhmahadev
with His spiritual tridant (Trishul) depicted in
the photo by the author within the complex of
sanctimonious lords temple and in the
backdrop of azure sky and vibrant lush green
forests of Shivgar Dhar. Elsewere too. Lord Shiva
has manifested at Om Parvat, Amar Nath, Gupt
Ganga and so many of its allieds.
Situated around 120 kms from Jammu and,
alienating from Jammu and Kashmir National
Highway from Chenani towards its east arounding
30 kms and the road is passing serpentingly
through lush green pines and oaks till one
reaches the sanctimonious temples shrine
where a three-day-long mela is most reverentially
celebrated to pay obeisance and obtain blessings
from Shiv-Shakti. This year, the mela
begins on 29th June (Choudshi-a pious day) and is
celebrated with due devotion by the locals,
outsiders from HP, Punjab, Haryana so much to the
extent of tourists from abroad. The sanctocity of
the place is of immensive importance in so far
goes its serene, scienic beauty, apart from
multifaceted manifestations of myths
and legends of utmost significance of
attributions.
* Chenani hamlet : Barely in its perigree
arounding 3 kms from NH-IA is the clustered
Chenani hamlet had an ereswhile palace of Ram
Singh where the most part of the multi-star
movie, Jaani Dushman by the R K Kohli
was shot in and around the vicinity of this
palace which was engulfed by devasting fire in
1992 and now extinct. However, the photo of the
palace as captured by the author depicting its
pristine glandeur and traditional phummian
architecture is shown in the body of the write
up.
* Gouri Kund : While on way to the sacred shrine,
falls, en route, the most sacred spring around
15-16 kms from Chenani. As the legend goes
Mata Parvati or Gouri
after whose name the spring is named is highly
regarded pious pond where Mata
Parvati meditated for a period of something
around 15 years to find favour of Lord
Shiva still more is the sacred character of
this region as it derives its prominence from the
fact that Dewak stream is poetized in
our revered Purans as the holiest of
holy rivers. All pilgrims have first of all a
holy dip in this pious spring before proceeding
Sudhmahadev.
* Sudhmahadev temple : This historic temple of
Lord Shiva and Parvati is
2800 years old and exists in the midst of
serence, scenic and vibrant forest area. The
place is renowned for its prominence of beauty
and splendeur but more so to the legends
associated with this sanctimonous shrine.
Sudhamahadev is basically composed of two words
Sudh and Mahadev and as the
legend goes that there used to be a demon by name
Sudhant who was a strong devotee of
Lord Shiva.
Mata Parvati (Shivas consort),
renwoned as the daughter of a Raja of
Mantali, a picturesque spot hardly
around 10-12 kms away from
Sudhmahadev used to meditate Lord
Shiva in these hilly and lushgreen mountainous
region to obtain her favour after having an holy
dip at Gauri Kund.
And as the legend further goes, one day while
Mata Parvati was passing through
these dense forests, demon
Sudhants evil eyes fell on her
and he chased her. To Her utter agony, Mata
Parvati cried terribly, Oh Lord
Shiva, save me from the cruel hands of the
demon. Lord Shiva, who
was in his deep meditation and sensing the
helping voice effused His anger and got
infuriated and let loose his tridant (Trishul)
which instantly decapped demons head who in
turn cried agnostically, Lord
Shiva... Lord
Shiva.
Hearing his deplorable voice, the lord realized
that He has killed his own worshipper and He,
therefore, came to Sudhant and
promised to bring him backto his life. But in the
arbitrary prayed over-whelmingly and said,
Oh my lord, I am fortunate enough to
have been, killed piously. Lord Shiva thus
gave His divinity command at that place and so
the name of the sacred shrine thence forth called
as Sudhmahadev.
Insides of the temple are beautious and
enthralling with black idol of Lord
Shiva and Mata Parvati mounted
on Nandigan and this idol has been
excavated from insides of Mantalai. The
Lords tridant is well in existence which is
reported of 16th, 17th century back (shown in the
photograph). The broken trident is in three
pieces sanctimoniously embedded within the
complex of the temple and the top part of Trishul
is having a height around eight feet or so.
According to the Brahmi
inscription on the broken shaft of trident
embedded in the temple courtyard the complex is
as old as of 3rd-4th century AD. The inscription
is in Gupta Brahmi which
amply reflects the visit of one
Vibhunaga son of Ganpati
to this pilgrimage center in the mountainous
region.
* Pap Nashi Spring : Just at the entrance of
temple exists a natural spring of bygone ages
with nectarclear perennial water enclaved
horizontally by three sides above four feet with
multifaceted statues and engravings of multihued
Gods and Goddesses. The pious water of this
spring washes off all sins and that is why the
devotees before having holy darshan in the temple
of Lord Shiva take a holy
dip in this Pap Nashi
spring.
There is a cluster of fresh water natural springs
in and around the vicinity having their immensive
importance of spirituality coupled with multihued
medicinal properties. One such springs exists
nearby Forest Rest House (FRH) Sudhmahadev whose
water gushes out of the stony mouth
of Nagraja perennially having
nectar-clear water with curative values of
digestive disorders and is a great appetizer. The
Forest Rest House, is located at an
elevated place above Sudhmahadev hamlet with
sprawling lawn in the back drop of vibrant,
lutgreen and slabrious Forest of Pines and oaks
of Dhar Shivgarh.
Sudhmahadev is further linked with
Man-Talai through a serpentine road
of 12-13 kms amidst lush green pines, oaks and
other beautiful broad leaved criss-crossing small
springs and rivulets on way to Man Talai- a small
hamlet having been named as Talai (a pond), which
still exists there. Late Swami Dhirendera
Bramcharya, with the spiritual outlook developed
this picturesque spot a heaven on Earth A
Yoga Ashram was constructed here
where people of all hues, men, women, preferably
youth from India and abroad used to attend yogic
classes.
* Mata Naina Devi : Atop Man Talai barely 5-6 kms
uphill treck is the sanctimonious temple of diety
called Mata Naina Devi of immensive shakti and is
situated amidst thick pines where pilgrims throng
in huge number for holy darshan and obtain
blessings.
There is an expanse meadow like that of
Pahalgam and Gulmarg in
the Kashmir valley and this area warrants to be
boosted as a tourist resort to attract pilgrims
and tourists alike which shall in the arbitrary
improve the economy of the local populace.
Conclusively, therefore, the Govt should focus
such like shrines elsewhere too having peculiar
features of mountainous attractions of Jammu,
Kashmir and Leh Ladhak regions combining
spiritual bliss with sizzling pulchritude of
natural panoramas must be brought on the national
and international map so that there remains
ever-amounting influx of pilgrims and tourists
alike and these rich varied symbolic and highly
sensuous and sanctimonious shrine with
fascinating fresco do deserve appealing of divine
to enhance our tourist industry apart from
flourishing economic status of our state.
(The author is Dy Conservator of Forests,
J&K)
Sindhu
that flows through Indian heritage

S D Singh Jamwal
Ten
years ago in 1997, Lal Kishan Advani, a Sindhi
whose childhood memories of years spent on Sindhu
banks, now in Pakistan, were refreshed when he
visited the river in Leh and decided to launch a
Sindhu Darshan Abhiyaan for the rediscovery of
the ancient river Sindhu which roars like a
thunderstorm and gave Sindh and Hind their names.
Like millions, the journey through this river
transported him to a civilization going back 5000
years. As the Indus valley civilization is
synonymous with Harappa and Mohenjadoro which
make every Indian proud, Advani was also thrilled
to be with the ancient river. Sindhu or the
Indus, the great trans-Himalayan river is among
the longest rivers in the world with an
astonishing length of 2900 kms (1800 miles).
Rising in South-Western Tibet at
Kailash-Mansarovar at an altitude of 16,000 feet,
it enters Indian territory near Leh in Ladakh and
has a total drainage area of about 4, 50,000
squares miles of which 1, 75,000 square miles lie
in the Himalayan mountains and foothills and the
rest is in the semi-arid plains of Pakistan. The
rivers annual flow is about 2,
74,055,000,000 cubic yards twice that of
the Nile and three times that of the Tigris and
Euphrates combined. The rivers name comes
from the Sanskrit word Sindhu. Sindhu
is mentioned in Rig-Veda, the earliest 1500 BC
chronicle and hymns of the Aryan people of
ancient India. It reads: Sindhu in might
surpasses all the streams that flow
His
road is lifted up to the heaven about the earth;
he puts forth endless vigor with a flash of
light
. Even as cows with milk rush to their
calves, so other rivers roar into the Sindhu. As
a warrior king leads other warriors, so does
Sindhu lead other rivers
. Rich in good
steed, rich in gold, nobly fashioned, rich in
ample wealth. When the Vedic seer invokes
heaven and earth, he also invokes the Sindhu as
it is the oldest name in Indian history and
geography. When Lord Shiva carried the immolated
body of his divine consort Sati over the land,
her skull top with its Hingula
Sindhur fell at what has been Hinglaj
ever since. It is near Karachi on the Sindh -
Baluchistan border. Even this holy spot has been
sanctified by the visit of Rama, Sita and
Lakshman. The gushing Sindhu flowing through the
bowl shaped Shey valley, situated 14 kms from Leh
which has been witnessing Sindhu Darshan festival
for the past ten years now. This re-discovery of
Sindhu testifies that memories might fade away,
the civilizations remain immortal. Shey village
is its ideal example where this sleepy place in
the land of lamas has already woken up to be a
new destination on Indian tourist map with the
Sindhudarshan festival. Starting from a handful
of Sindhis led by Advani, Sindhu Darshan Abhiyaan
has now transformed into a national event- Sindhu
Darshan festival and has emerged as a symbol of
national integration. ((The name of the festival
has recently been changed to
Singhey-Khababs which means sprouting
out of lions mouth.) Launched as an
Abhiyaan , the Sindhu Darshan has become as
national festival which is being promoted by the
Union ministry of Culture and Tourism. This
national festival is aimed at projecting the
Sindhu as a multi-dimensional cultural identity,
communal harmony and peaceful co-existence in
India. While promoting tourism to this area, this
festival is also symbolic salute to the brave
soldiers of India who have bravely fought the
odds at Siachin, Kargil and other places. This
year also, Leh - the moonland at an altitude of
11,500 feet in J&K State received a host of
devotees and tourists from various parts of the
country, for the three-day festival from 12-15
June 2007.
During this three days festival, the Sindhis
joyously do the holy ritual Baharana (worship of
water god) on the banks of river Sindhu. This
they used to do in their original place in Sindh,
now in Pakistan but after the Sindhu was
discovered, the Sindhis do it here at Shey
village near Leh in Ladakh more than half a
century after, with fervour and reverence.
Baharana is actually worship of water
deity with a group of 20 artistes in Sindhi
costumes carrying water from different parts of
the country dancing to the rhythm of drum beaters
and immersed in the Sindhu, a unique union of
holy rivers.
The main highlight of the three-day festival this
year was a cultural bonanza based on Indias
unity in diversity besides Ladakhi dances and a
balle by an art troupe of renowned actor Tom
Alter. Aimed at bringing more and more domestic
tourists to Ladakh and also popularizing the
Himalayan destination among them, the festival
was inaugurated by the Chief Executive
Councillor, Ladakh autonomous Hill Development
Council (LAHDC),Leh, Mr. Tsering Dorje . The main
feature of the cultural bonanza was a 20-minute
balle Abhisaar Aa Bale from the
poetry of Guru Rabinder Nath Tagore based on the
teachings of Lord Buddha which states that the
ultimate salvation from body, mind and soul. This
20 minutes feature was presented by Tom Alter,
Sharmila Ganguli and Raje Arimdhan. The festival
is expected to boost Ladakh tourism, a favorite
destination of trekkers located in the lap of
Himalayas in Jammu and Kashmir. The Hill Council
also aims at attracting the tourists to 13
Monastic festivals which would be held in
Leh,three in Zanskar and one at Nubra with Hemis
festival on June 25 and 26. Last year more than
43,000 tourists visited Ladakh, 6,000 more than
the previous year while the just begun
tourist-season this year is expected to reap good
dividends. EOM
(The author is SSP vigilance Jammu).
Basohli
Looking Beyond the Traditional
Devna Rastogi
Basohli also has religious
attraction, especially the Mata Chanchala Devi
temple built by the Pala rulers of the region in
the 17th century. People come in large numbers
during Navratras, falling twice a year, in the
months of April and October. It is located atop a
mountain, just outside the main town, from where
one could for hours together view the Basohli
town, its ruined fort, the mountain ranges of
Himachal and the Ranjit Sagar dam. The most
picturesque spot indeed in Basohli, with a divine
blessing.
As a
tourist spot, Basohli's strength lies in the
following. The place has its unique and exquisite
art in the form of the miniature paintings and
the Pashmina shawls. Though a branch of the
Pahari paintings, it is unique for the use of
natural colours with geometrical designs,
depicting love themes particularly of Radha and
Krishna. Pashmina shawls of Basohli are distinct;
they are beautifully woven primarily in white,
beige and grey colours.
Basohli also has religious attraction, especially
the Mata Chanchala Devi temple built by the Pala
rulers of the region in the 17th century. People
come in large numbers during Navratras, falling
twice a year, in the months of April and October.
It is located atop a mountain, just outside the
main town, from where one could for hours
together view the Basohli town, its ruined fort,
the mountain ranges of Himachal and the Ranjit
Sagar dam. The most picturesque spot indeed in
Basohli, with a divine blessing.
From a historical perspective, it has a ruined
palace, built by the Pala rulers. Overlooking the
Ravi River, it still stands as a majestic
structure. It has a lotus tank by its side and
can attract people in large numbers. Basohli's
Ram leela, held in October during the Dussehra
festival of the Hindus, is a major event where
even the Muslims participate as actors, along
with the Hindus. It is a very popular event in
the entire region.
The huge Ranjit Sagar Dam built across the Ravi
is an added attraction to Basohli. The reservoir
is huge with clear water; people of the town, to
travel across, to the bordering state of Himachal
Pradesh use the reservoir. The area is also
famous for the trout.
However to attract tourist, the place needs basic
infrastructure, despite being a tourist friendly
area. In terms of security, the fact that there
is neither militancy nor the presence of security
forces, only make it look like any other tourist
town in the neighbouring Himachal, which is just
a few minutes travel across Ravi.
A major deterrent for the tourist inflow is the
road connectivity. A comparative analysis of two
roads on both the banks of Ravi will provide an
answer as to why Basohli lacks tourist. The road
from Lakhanpur to Basohli, on the west bank of
Ravi is single, tiring and rusty. On the other
hand, the road from Pathankot to Dalhousie, that
runs parallel in Himachal Pradesh is wide, double
laned and better maintained. At regular intervals
there are sign boards to guide the tourist along
with tea stalls, restaurants and petrol bunk. At
least 10 kms before one reaches Dalhousie,
hoardings of the hotels and the eating joints can
be seen. On the contrary, one can hardly find any
dhabas and petrol bunks on the road from
Lakhanpur to Basohli. The key to the advancement
of the area is the development of the roads for
the convenience of the tourist. Efforts should be
made by the government to construct rest houses
for the stay of the travelers.
Despite the place having a rich art and culture,
outside the region, not many people know about
it. There are no shops where one can find these
paintings for sale or a museum for the display of
these paintings. Moreover, even in the town, not
many people know the art except for the ones who
have been doing this for ages. Efforts have been
made by the locals to revive this art by forming
an organization in the 1990s. This organization,
along with the local police, started a school to
teach the new generation the Basohli art, held a
workshop in Kala Kendra in Jammu. The government
should set up art galleries or museum for the
display of the paintings. Training schools should
be set up where people can learn the art and
spread it to different places. Conferences,
seminars and workshops can be held which will
make these paintings popular.
Pashmina shawls of the area face stiff
competition from the Valley. Their external
markets are limited only to Leh and Ladakh as
those areas are within reach. According to the
weavers, the demand of the shawls has been on a
decline since the same are being made in the
valley as well. The other option of selling them
to Himachal Pradesh, where they can get a good
price, is hurdled by bad roads and longer routes
which is time consuming. Added to that, is
another problem of the demand being more for the
embroidered shawls. But in Basohli nobody is in
the embroidery field. All the embroidery and the
dying of the shawls are done in the valley. Like
the organization for the paintings, the shawl
weavers can form an association for the
betterment of their trade. The people are in
favour of construction of a bridge, connecting
Basohli to Himachal Pradesh, which will shorten
the distance particularly to Dalhousie where the
demand for the shawls is more. This will make
marketing of the product unproblematic. The
government can organize exhibitions for the
display and sale of these shawls.
Surprisingly, the palace has no government
maintenance except for the lawns under the
floriculture department of Jammu. The palace
should be placed under the archaeological survey
of India which will dig out more about its
history. The government along with the
information available with the locals should
publish pamphlets, small booklets which will
provide sufficient information about the palace
to the tourist.
By cashing on these, Basohli can be transformed
into tourist hub. This, in particular will
develop this region further.
AKHNOOR
A historical township
A K Khanna
River Chenab has clear
crystal very fast flowing water and spanning its
bank like the fins of a whale as it debunchs from
the hill down in the plains of Akhnoor. A town 28
Kms west of Jammu city on the road that leads to
the west to Rajouri and Poonch. Akhnoor is
situated overlooking on the higher terrace of the
River. The Chenab on the right bank with the
history going down with archaeological evidence
of 5000 years from now. The left bank is plain
and barren still has many archaeological sites in
her lap like Malpur, a Neolithic site (New Stone
age site). The Chenab originates from the Bara
Lacha Pass in Himachal Pradesh at the height of
4891 meter above sea level, has been considered
as the source of the glacier fed perennial river.
The ancient knew the river as Asikni, it has two
sources one which flows down south known as
Chandra and that goes to north named as Bhaga.
About 26 Km further south from Manali (a tourist
spot in Himachal Pradesh), a motarable road runs
along the river, from Khoskhas to Tandi (Himachal
Pradesh). In all 107 Km of road run by the side
of river during the sarjoun in Himachal Pradesh.
The Chandra and Bhaga meets to form Chandrabhaga
at Tandi (2825 MSL). It become Chenab when it
joins river Marau ar Bhandera Kot, 12 Km from
Kishtwar Town (J&K). The river then travels
to Reasi, where it had been dammed at Salal
(NHPC) a Hydro-electric project. There is a
motorable road runs along the river in the
stretch between Atholi, Malhori, Perah and
Ramban, Kautham and Jourian. The road is often 50
to 100 meters above the river Chenab with
wonderful view of various facets of the river.
The town of Akhnoor (32° 54' N; 74° 45' E) is
situated picturesquely on the right bank of the
river 28 Km South-west of Jammu in the foothills
of Pir Panjal range. A few kilometers after river
debunchs into the plains of Jammu. The river
after traveling in serpentine manner for hundreds
of kilometers in Himachal Pradesh and Pir Panjal
range of J&K. Before Akhnoor town, a fort
located overlooking the river and extremely
important proto-historic site as the northern
most site of Chalcolithic period or Indus Valley
Civilization or Indus Saraswati Civilization of
Manda. The Harappan site of Manda named after the
village Manda, belongs to 3rd millennium BC. The
present fort was probably started in 1762 AD at
the behest of Raja Tegh Singh, as an autonomous
principle state. His son Alam Singh completed the
Akhnoor fort in 1802. On the eastern side, there
are steps leading down to the River Chenab.
Though constructed in the 18th century, most of
the steps are in a good state of preservation.
The ghat served as the important spot for
performance of religious sites by the people of
the region.
The turrets or Burj are still intact is called
the Kishore Singh burj after Maharaja Gulab
Singh's father who was a close associate of Guru
Gobind Singh the 10th Sikh Guru. There are traces
of paintings on the walls of the rooms of the
fort. The Jia Pota or Jeo Pota temple in Akhnoor
town on the bank of the river Chenab has a
sedimentary rock that has been utilized as a
place where Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab
performed the ceremony of Raj Tilak or anointment
of the Raja Ghulab Singh on 16th June 1862, when
the Gulab Singh was barely 21 years old. Maharaja
left nothing to chance the ceremony which was
solemnised under the tree known as Jeo Pota. He
also invited all the top chieftains of Jammu
province to witness grand finnale of coronation.
Mian Nihal Singh was the pre-eminent leader of
Rajput Clan of the time. He pierced his finger
and with his blood applied the tilak on Gulab
Singh's forehead to coronate the Raja. This was
considered as the sign of all other hill chief to
accept the Gulab Singh as their king.
The fort of Akhnoor though a nationally protected
monument under the Archaeological Survey of
India, due to the encroachment by various state
Govt. agencies, the monument could not be
preserved in its glory. The skyline of the fort
intruded by a bulbous overhead water tank from a
distance. All along the road the various offices
and modern buildings in patches have encroached
the ancient fort which could not be preserved as
a tourist spot. The Akhnoor fort can be developed
as a beautiful picnic spot combined with the
glorious history going down from more than 5000
years from now. A proto-historic archeological
site, a historic fort and a picturesquely located
place is away from the hustle and bustle of the
Jammu city life. cool, pure and unpolluted clear
water provide for a refreshing bath in the river
in summer. The high current of the river is
dangerous to try for a swim even for a good
swimmer. The river served as the one of the
famous trading ports in the ancient times . It
might have been the ancient trading port and the
source of transporting of pine wood and walnut
peel used as teeth cleaner, which anchored before
it could enter the plains just before Akhnoor
town and then transported by the road. The river
played an important economic part probably upto
the middle of the 20th century AD. The wood and
walnut peel might have been the major items of
the export through the old road leading to
Sialkot and further toward the port of the
Karachi now in Pakistan.
There are warves still existant on the right and
left banks of Chenab in the land locked river on
the both sides, just few hundred meter where the
new bridge over the Chenab has been coming up.
These wharves had been used as platforms to
interpret the wooden logs and walnut peel which
were transported through the force of water from
the higher reaches. After passing through the
present steel bridge of Akhnoor river Chenab fans
like the fins of a whale and unmanageable for
intercepting the transporting material. The
border conglomerates which bound the river like
the man made cementation is basically a
geological formations which is about two
kilometer long after the river enters the plain
on the outskirts of the Akhnoor near Pambranvan.
The fast current of the river, the clear crystal
cold water in summer and extremely cold in
winter, the colour of water changes with the
season are important characteristics of the
Chenab river.
The most beautiful view of the river can be had
from the Akhnoor bridge. The sight of a rare
phenomenon in nature one can enjoy is the point
just beyond the Akhnoor town of the bend of the
Chenab river which form into a 'Chicken Neck' as
the river enter into the Pakistan. The bend of
the river has been a contrast of the
whirl-winding path the river travels through
Mountains, gorges etc for hundreds of kilometers
from its source down to the plains. The river has
probably changed its coarse during the 6th
century AD which has been attested in the
archaeological excavation of 2000 AD at Ambrana,
a Buddhist stupa site. The three flash flood
lead's to the change in the coarse of the river
from the old river bed next to the Akhnoor fort
or before the town to the present coarse.
The site of Ambrana is located just 10 meter
above the left bank of the river Chenab and the
only site in Jammu and Kashmir being credited to
have found with Sarizika stupa with a reliquary
of Buddhist period. The replica of the stupa can
be seen in the Nooruddin Shiekh Museum at Zorawar
Singh Auditorium in the Jammu university. Akhnoor
fort, can be developed as one of the most
beautiful spot of Dogra heritage, outside Jammu
city. The modern structures can be removed with
little efforts of the Govt. and people of the
Akhnoor town only to preserve the historicity of
Akhnoor town.
(The author is Dy. Superintending Archaeologist
Archaeological Survey of India)
Mela
Moungri
G L Khajuria
Moungri
mela is celebrating in the month of
may in the remote area of Kainth Gali
around 26 kms. falling in Panchari, district
Udhampur. The mela is, defacto, of sacrosanctity
of the beholder ; supreme Lord Shiva
and Shakti (Mata Parvati) His
consort. The mela is celebrated for three days
every year at Sar Dabbar, Sar is a
hindi word nomenclarised as water and so the
wetlands and the lakes are annexed with Sar like,
Sanasar, Mansar, Surinsar, etc and in this
particular case Sar Dabbar, which in
the time immorial was a lake which by the wishes
of almighty dried and now the Dabbar
is well afforestated giving a vibrant and
salubrious look. This is a sanctimonious spot
where a huge mela is annually held in which
devotees from far flung areas of Delhi, Haryana,
HP and Punjab throng in thousands. * Lord
Ganeshas cave : The local legend is that
this cave is of over millionia and non could ever
calculate its age. Small statues of Nandigan,
Counch, Nagdevs exist here. The length of the
cave is too narrow with watery carpet and is
around twenty feet where one can have holy
darshan of Lord Ganesh, pay obeisance and obtain
blessings.
* Lord Shiv-Parvati cave ; This cave is also
locally spoken as Shiv Parvar and
front-face is of very had rock devoid of even a
single drop of water and is 29 feet standing
height where there are engravings of Lord Shiva,
Parvati, Serpents, counch, a stony pigion etc.
* Kancer Rivulet ; Alongside caves complex
flows a nectar-clear nallah by name as Kancer
having glacuous water at purity and most of the
devotees at occasion have holy darshan of
Nags and
Nagins. The gushing water fall of the
pious water still adds to the enchanting beauty.
This river or to say rivulet is the confluence of
two perennial rivulets viz Moungri
and Kalsote.
* Sunny Reflection to holy caves : It is wonder
of wonders that on each clear day the Sun salutes
these caves between 10 A.M to 11 AM the rays
which reflect over the pious and honey-dewed
waters of Kancer stream. This is also locally
spoken as Surya Shanan to these
caves.
* Gujraj Spiritual View : Here again, one
encounters still more and more wonders of nature
when one climbs barely 300 metres atop the caves
and becomes wonder struck after glimpsing Gujraj
an elephantine image with tusks and pot-bally
drinking water through His Proboscis from Kancer
and still it is wonder strucking that the entire
chirpine forest seems like body hair on the
Gujraj.
"Moungri" is a small hamlet with two
caves of magnanimity which are none the less than
other spiritual shrines spread over the hilly
terrain of Himalayas (outer and inner). As
narrated by Swatantra Dev Kotwal of Panchari,
these caves came to lime light on 14th September,
1998 in the realm of dream when the local
gathered and it was to their utmost astonishment
on glimpsing these miraculous caves of 'Lord
Ganesha' and 'Shiv Parvati' and till date an
annual mela is held on Ist of Jeth (Adeshi month)
and people of all hues gather here.
Though, unbelievable but the fact remains that
the 'duo caves' are of their sanctified reverence
which speak silently in the divinity tones. The
insides of caves also accommodate Nandigam,
Nagrajs, Counch, Narsinghdev and many of their
pious ilk of sanctocity which are of abysmal
reverence and an amplitude of their unique and
appropriate sanctociousness. Mr Kotwal is as well
the Chairman of Shiv Parvati Cave
Shrine Moungri who looks after the entire
arrangements assisted by Kailash Dev as publicity
secretary and the duo are of the view that
'Baradari' should be judiously utilized for the
development of caves complex.
Trishul Shanan: Just on the very onset a
splendour Trishul is given holy dip by the local
Chhari (Holy mace) and thence attuned by wide,
varied music of drums, flutes with bequantial
songs in the reverence of Shiv Parvati - Har Har
Mahadev echo the skies towards atop of caves and
a puja is held devotionally by all and one who
accompany the holy mace which after fulfilling
all rituals descends down with the same tradition
and first pay obeisance to lord
"Ganesha". The holy mace, then have
holy darshan of 'Lord Shiva and Shakti - Mata
Parvati'.
Suggestive measure for enhancing beauty
* Road Connectivity: The road is 'Kacha one'
linking Moungri from 'Kainth Gali' arounding 20
kms and upto 'Sar Dabbar'. The road warrants to
be upgraded by metaling and black-toping so that
it becomes well-shapped for the convenience of
pilgrims in particular and the public in general
who have to encounter long distances to the
far-flung areas of inhabitations.
* Increasing No. of Vehicles: Currently, three
buses ply over the entire track which, in toto,
are inadequate and the numbers of buses/other
conveniences need to be enhanced.
*Stepping of rough path watch Chain Links: Since
the devotees accompanied by little kids go for
holy darshan and there are every apprehension of
them to be drifted. In order, therefore, to avert
such eventualities, it is pertinent to accomplish
this task of chain-linking the pathways.
*Shelter - Belts: Shelter-belts with green top
plastic sheets will not only provide shelter to
the locals but as well add beauty to the spots,
boosting tourism.
*Toilets: There is no such provision and this
warrants to be introduced on the analogy of
'Vaishno Devi Mata' shrine.
*Foot Bridge Over Kancer: This is most pertinent
and its construction shall facilitate locals,
apart from making the sacred shrine a pilgrimage
spot around the year.
*Introduction of Flowering Plants: The
introduction of Nerium, Bouganivillea,
bottle-brush alongside the path shall enhance
beauty and glorify the areas.
*Creation of Wildlife Park: Long back, when
Mahmood Iqbal was DDC Udhampur, the idea was
mooted for the formulation of a small wild life
park which remained as hanging fire but now needs
to be introduced.
*Boosting Greening: Here, the Deptts of Forests,
Floriculture, Horticulture, Seri-Culture shall
have to make all things in bringing a green
revolution, apart from enhancing fruit
cultivation this is the best zone for cultural
apple (Ram Phal, Sila Phal, Laxman Phal)
* Bringing the Spot on Tourist Map: Keeping in
view the sanctity of spot, huge number of
pilgrims shall also improve the local economy.
*Declaring Holiday for Udhampur Distt: As for
Sarthal Devi, Machail Yatra, a Gazetted holiday
needs to be incorporated on the annual calender
for this shrine.
* Creation of Shrine Board: An enactment needs to
be brought under legislation to bring the spot
under Shrine Board.
The author is
(Dy. Conservator of Forests)
The
Saga of saffron
Sarvadaman
Saffron has long history of
over 5000 years in Kashmir, India and is supposed
to have been introduced into china by the Mongol
invasion.it is mentioned in the chinese Materia
medical (1552-75). Derived from the Arabic word
`Azaferon´ which means yellow, Saffron has an
amazing healing ability. It was cultivated by the
Arabs in spain about 961, and is mentioned in the
English leech book of the 10th century,but seems
to have disappeared from western Europe till
reintroduced by the Crusaders. According to
Hakluyt, it was especially cultivated near histon
in Cambridgeshire, and in Essex at saffron
walden, its cultivators being called
`Croakers".
There is refference to saffron in the Srimad
Bhagwatam where the queens of lord krishna and
other ladies of Dwaraka smeared their bodies with
saffron powder.Then once again, saffron is
reffered to in Solomon 4:13-14 in the bible. In
Rome it was spread on the floors of theatre as a
perfume.A little after the death of Buddha,water
soluble saffron dye become the official colour of
the Buddists. Reference of the spice in the
scriptures is a pointer to the fact that saffron
was considered very auspicious. Saffron is used
extensively in Mughlai cuisine. The Mughuls loved
the aroma of saffron flavoured foods, especially
their pillaus and biryanis. Historical records
show that there were thousands of bighas of land
under saffron cultivation during the Mughul rule
in india. Saffron has been the most important
cash-crop of Kashmir since ancient times. The
ancient and medieval historians have proudly
referred to its cultivation, in Sanskrit it is
called Kumkuma, in Hindi, Kesar, in Arabic it is
referred as Zafaran.
Its origin has been traced from the legends. For
example, it has been mentioned that there was a
physian who resided at Padampur (modern Pampur in
Kashmir). A Naga (a local water-deity) came to
him for cure of his eye-disease. The Naga could
not get any relief despite medicine. This
astonished the physician. The fact was that the
effect of medicine was neutralised by the
poisonous vapours, issuing from Nagas
mouth. The physian then wrapped a cloth on his
(Nagas) eyes and he got cured. Out of
gratitude he presented a seed (bulb) of saffron
to the physian. There-after the saffron crop came
up in Padampur.
In addition to Kashmir valley saffron also grown
in Kishtwar,
Jammu Division. This Saffron too has a unique
& Best quality of its own.
Nothing much is known about the steps taken to
increase its production but saffron continued to
be cultivated and used in Cuisine. Saffron was
one of the items received as present or tribute.
When Akbar conquered Kashmir in 1586 A.D. he
reserved the cultivation of saffron as Khalisa or
royal monopoly. During Sultanate period Saffron
flowers were picked and cleansed by labourers who
were paid very little or no wages. Thus the
begaar (forced labour) was the main cause which
might have led to the decline of saffron
production. Akbar realising its importance in
terms of income, took some very effective steps
to increase production. Secondly, he brought more
area under cultivation. Thirdly, better
supervision was made at the final stage. All
these steps paid rich dividends. The production
went upto all time high i.e 90,000 traks. It
became a major source of state income and was
retained a state monopoly till the end of Mughal
rule.Mode of cultivation
Saffron botically speaking is derived from crocus
family. Its scientific name is crocus sativus.
The corms resemble garlic but are grey in colour.
They are covered with a hairy sheath. The seeds
are sown in August September. Land is prepared
months before. Previously the land intended to be
sown with saffron was kept fallow for a season.
Then it was ploughed at regular intervals. The
loany soil had to become pulverised and for it 16
ploughings were considered sufficient. Then the
seed is sown in the furrows which is covered with
soil. Small rectangular plots are made to
facilitate the drainage of rain water. Rain water
should not accumualte in the field which can harm
the seed. These rectangular plots are called
wari] in Kashmir: About 100 waris are made
in one kanal of land.
Special soil is required for its cultivation. The
seed of saffron resembling a garlic (corm). The
flower appears in the month of October. The
length of a plant is six inches at the most but
variations have been found due to the quality of
the soil. The flower comes on the top of the
stalk and have six petals and six stemens. Three
of the six petals have a fresh lilac colour and
stand around about the remaining three petals.
The stemens are placed likewise. Only the red
stemens surrounded by yellow ones yield the
saffron. The saffron plant continues to yield
flowers for six years. During first two years,
the yield is less but in the third year, the
plant becomes perfect and the yield is
substantial. After six years, the seeds (bulbs)
must be taken out and planted in fresh ground and
the original field is left fallow to recover its
fertility.
Areas of cultivation
Saffron is traditionally grown in the areas
around Pampore. Actually it is best grown in
Karewas around Wasturwan and Zevan.
The whole area was called Pargana
vihi is the best suited to its
cultivation. The three Karewas named
Sombur, Wattan and Lethapur
were the traditional areas. But now its
cultivation has spread to other areas as well.
As saffron crop needs special soil, therefore,
its cultivation was restricted to Pampur (Ancient
Padampur) in the district of Maraz and in
Paraspur near Inderkot in Kamraj district. (in
past)
Use of saffron
Saffron is used in many ways, for example, its
use is made in worship. The Hindu women used it
as a mark on the fore-head. It was also used on
cheeks to get a golden colour. It was also used
in winter for massaging the body because of its
fragrance, stimulation and heating qualities.
During Zain-ul-Abidins and earlier times,
it was used to give colour to the cooked rice.
Kashmiris used it in their Kohwa (tea). It was
also used in perfumes. During Akbars
period, its cost was eight to twelve rupees per
tola. It is also used in medicine.
Export of saffron
Kashmir had some agricultural products which were
very much popular in other regions of India.
Therefore, these were exported to these regions.
Among the products, one was Saffron.
Kashmirs main Jins-i-Kamil (cash-crop).
These crops are not only important from
intra-region trade point of view but were equally
important for inter regional trade. It is
important to mention that saffron was one of the
costliest products of Mughal India and Kashmir
had a virtual monoply over it. Saffron yielded
handsome income to the State. Because of its
important Kashmiris refered to it as
Kashmir Raja and cultivation
associated with it were watched like
diamond diggirs. The crop has now
assumed multifarous uses and is now a universal
crop in terms of use.
Saffron was used as a ingredient in many of the
complicated medicines of the early times.
Even today,in Asia Ladies take Saffron with milk
during the pregnancy period,for good health and
fairness of new borns.It was largely used in
cookery is evidenced by many writers, the Chinese
used to employ it largely and the
Iranians,Spaniards and indians stillmix it with
their rice. (eg. The Clown in The Winter´s Tale
says:he "must have saffron to colour the
warden pies").Saffron is also repeatedly
mentioned in Homer , Hippocrates and other greek
writers.
In india ,on account of its therapeutic and
dyeing properties,the saffron dyed clothes became
yhe official robes of the buddha (5th century BC)
and his followers and later the Hindu priests
from(3rd century AD). Presently Saffron is a
declining crop. It has been ravaged by diseases
and low yield. the area under its cultivation is
geeting shrunk by reckless building activity.
Sincere efforts are needed to revive the great
heritage crop of Kashmir for which it was once
called KUMKUM DESH)
***************************************************************
.
Budhal
- Hill Station of Rajouri

K D Maini
Proper Budhal is a small town
containing about 100 shops, Police Station and
about 300 houses. It is situated on the mound
near Gabbar Nallah in between 33 degree 23 mnts
latitude and 74 degree 41 mnts longitude. The
town falls on the Southern range of Peer Panchal
which is connected with motorable road with
Rajouri. Another road from Budhal to connect Gool
Gulabgarh is also under construction. This
beautiful spot is existing on enroute to Budhal
pass or Sedhu pass which leads towards the valley
while the Sedhu pass is about 24 kms from Shopian
(Kashmir) and 25 kms from Budhal town.
Budhal is a beautiful valley located in between
the main Peer-Panchal Range of mountains. The
geography of the area is comprised of snow capped
attractive peaks, thick forests, gushing streams,
crystal clear lakes, meadows and pastures. No
doubt that the area could not be developed
properly and no tourism activity is available,
but keeping in view the natural scenic beauty,
this area easily be compared with the terrain of
valley and can be developed for tourism purposes
by constructing huts/touist sarais at Koteranka.
By this way, the condition of the people can also
be improved.
Proper Budhal is a small town containing about
100 shops, Police Station and about 300 houses.
It is situated on the mound near Gabbar Nallah in
between 33 degree 23 mnts latitude and 74 degree
41 mnts longitude. The town falls on the Southern
range of Peer Panchal which is connected with
motorable road with Rajouri. Another road from
Budhal to connect Gool Gulabgarh is also under
construction. This beautiful spot is existing on
enroute to Budhal pass or Sedhu pass which leads
towards the valley while the Sedhu pass is about
24 kms from Shopian (Kashmir) and 25 kms from
Budhal town. Most of the trekkers are using
Budhal as a base-camp and track the Peer Pachal
range via Sedhu pass towards Kashmir.
Renowned Research Scholar Late Moti Lal Saki
wrote in one of his article that the native place
of Khasha Tribes was between Banshala (presently
Banihal) and Rajouri (presently Rajouri) i.e
Budhal area. Khashas were great worriers who
ruled Rajouri and Kashmir in 9th and 10th century
AD. Some historians go upto this extent that the
name of Kashmir was derived from Khasha Tribe as
Khashmar. Lateron, it changed from Khashmar to
Kashmir. From 10th century onward till 19th
century, there is no direct reference about the
Ruler who ruled Budhal area. It appears that
during this period, Budhal remained the part of
Rajouri principality which remained mostly ruled
by Jaral Muslim Rajas and the worrier tribes of
Budhal area were also remained taking parts along
with the parts in the battles along with the
forces of Rajas of Rajouri.
In 1846 AD, when Rajouri was captured by Maharaja
Gulab Singh, Raja Rahim Ullah Khan of Rajouri was
compelled to leave the principality. Thakker
Namdhar Khans son Bandhu Khan alongwith his
other family members, also accompanied Raja Rahim
Ullah Khan and in light of the decision taken by
the residents of Lahore, Raja Rahim Ullah, Bandhu
Khan and his family left their native places once
for all and settled in village Rohallo of
District Kangra in Himachal Pradesh. Bandhu Khan
died there leaving behind his two sons namely
Sherbaz Khan and Mohammad Hafiz Khan. They tried
to come back to their native principality Budhal
but they were not allowed by Maharaja Gulab Singh
and so they left back and Budhal remained
governed by the Dogras.
From 1846 onwards, Budhal remained part of
Rajouri Tehsil which was initially governed by
Mian Hathu. In 1860 AD, this area became the part
of Bhimber District while in 1904 AD Budhal was
also affiliated with Reasi District like Rajouri
and this Administrative set up continued upto
1947.
In 1947, like other parts of the state, Budhal
area also became hot and tense due to
infiltration and attacks of raiders and PoK army.
Immediately after Independence, Pakistan tried to
capture Poonch and Rajouri area. Since at that
time, Maharaja Hari Singh was having only 8000
Dogra forces which were scattered throughout the
state i.e in Ladakh, Gilgit, Kashmir, Jammu and
Poonch. On the other hand, the revolt of Suddans
which was started from Poonch was comprised of
about 60000 retired ex-servicemen of 2nd World
War besides 30000 tribesmen of MWFP. This revolt
was also having full support of Pakistan army.
Therefore, they became able to capture almost all
parts of Poonch except Poonch city upto 26th
October, 1947 when the raiders declared so called
Azad Government under the leadership of Sardar
Ibrahim Khan in a Primary School at Trarkhal a
village of Poonch District. On 13th of November,
the infiltrators and deserters of Maharajas
forces under the command of Captain Rehmat Ullah
and Sakhi Diler Suddan captured Rajouri after
committing large scale atrocities at Rajouri.
They also went towards Budhal and captured the
town. The infiltrators nominated Mirza Mohammad
Hussain as the Administraor of Rajouri area which
included Budhal also. Mirza Mohammad Hussain
further nominated Sardar Jalal Din as
Administrator of Budhal. This set up remained
continued during the winter of 1947 and upto the
beginning of summer of 1948.
Presently , 65 percent population of the tehsil
is living below poverty line. Due to locational
disadvantages, very less development has taken
place in the past. Serious efforts are being made
for the development of the area by creating
infrastructural facilities like road linkages,
construction of school buildings, health
institutions, provision of drinking water
facilities, electrification of villages etc.
Under Beneficiary Oriented Schemes, people are
getting full benefit of plan funds while under
the National Social Assistance Programme (NSAP),
old-age pension is being provided to 2500
persons. 725 trainees have so far been trained
under various trades enabling them to start their
ventures. No doubt that due to militancy related
activities, the tehsil has suffered a lot and the
officers are not in a position to monitor the
schemes in remote areas. Even then, full efforts
are being made to help the people to create
infrastructure, to implement various nature of
Beneficiary Oriented Schemes and to redress their
grievances by solving their problems.
Budhal has good potential for tourist point of
view. Its scenic beauty can attract tourists from
the State as well as from outside the state.
Moreover, this track can be used for adventurous
tourism also. Therefore, there is need of
development of this area for tourism purposes so
that the poverty could be removed in one side and
area could be developed on the other side.
Valley
of Flowers

Stanzin Zanang
Nestled in the lap of nature lies '
Ldumra'. Ldumra is the local name for Nubra which
means 'Valley of Flowers'. Truly, the words
itself expresses a lot. The valley is a superb
art of nature. Its breath taking scenic view can
astonish any body reaching out there for the
first time. Climate much warmer than Leh,
beautiful landscape with two mighty rivers,
patches of sand dunes, rich wild life, great
glaciers and Karakoram Ranges are all about a
flash description about Nubra valley. Until 1947,
Leh had a trading relation with central Asia
through Karakoram Range of Nubra. Just imagine
how prosperous could be the valley during that
time! Now let's come back to Karakoram pass.
Karakoram pass alongwith other peaks and glaciers
comes under Karakoram range. Karakoram pass used
to provide main trading links between markets of
Leh, Yarkhand and Kashgar. But unfortunately
these areas are closed to tourist now. Since then
silk route trade also diminished gradually. Later
in 1962, India's war with China further worsened
the situation across the border areas to Ladakh
that includes. Rupshu, Tsomoriri, Pangong lake
and Nubra Valley. And thus Ladakh as a whole
remained closed to foreigners. Since 1974 when
Indian Government reopened Ladakh to the
foreigners Leh is doing a great job and
progressing a lot. But in some regions including
Nubra Valley, only a limited part of it was given
authorized to open for the foreigners. Thus these
paradise remained locked except some places. This
is the reason why its gems (great monasteries)
remain hidden to the people across the state and
countries. So when you read any book on Nubra it
is obvious that you might not get detail
information regarding the monasteries over there.
But it doesn't mean that Nubra is not rich with
monasteries. In fact each and every village
scattered over there has at least one monastery
whether big or small. Not only monasteries, Nubra
is rich in every way. The climate of Nubra is
considered to be the best one in Ladakh. Nubra is
also rich in mineral deposit. Just recently,
geologists from Kumaon University have found
exceptionally high concentration of uranium and
Thorium in Udmaru, a small village in Nobra. But
this finding could be commercial interest only if
large quantities of its deposition are indicated.
Monasteries of Nubra
Disket Monastery :- it is the largest monastery
in Nubra and is more than 350 years old. The
monastery was founded by Lama Sherap Zangpo of
Stod. Disket monastery follows the Gelukpa order
of Tibetan Buddhism and is a branch of Thiksey
Gompa. There are three prayer rooms, Library and
a school for little monks. About 120 monks reside
in the monastery under the head Lama Nawang Jampa
Stanzin who is 9th reincarnated Lama to hold this
position. Just below the monastery there is a
beautiful 'Photang' or residence of Dalai Lama,
beyond which on the top of a hill, a giant
statute of Maitreya Buddha is under construction.
Disket is the main administrative centre of
Nubra. So you can find all facilities over there.
There are plenty of Guest Houses and a hospital
in the heart of Disket. You can also approach the
tourism office just besides the market if you
need any information or help.
Ensa Gompa:- It is the oldest monastery of Nubra
founded by Stod Changsem Sherap Zangpo during the
reign of King Dakspa Bumde. Sherap Zangpo was one
of the disciple of famous translator Tsongkhapa,
who founded the Gelukpa order of Buddhism. It is
believed that Lhasa Gompa of Tibet was first to
be Built on this holy place. But unfortunately
due to some reason, a great Lama named Dachompa
Nima Gungpa refused to build the Gompa there and
left his print of right foot at Ensa.
Dachompa Nema Gungpa had power to fly with his
own religious cloth (Zang~gos). His foot prints
are preserved well and still can be seen in
places like Ensa, Morgi, Charasa and Tsati. And
as such he went to Tibet and Built Lhasa Gompa
there. Thus only his foot prints remains as
evidence. So when you are there at Ensa please
don't forget to see the foot prints of Dachompa
in one of the three prayers rooms of Ensa. Buddha
Purnima is celebrated in Ensa Gompa. And I must
say don't miss this chance if you are in Nubra at
that time.
Moving along Siachen River you are approaching
towards Charasa after crossing two small villages
Morgi and Kuri
.
Samstanling Monastery: Built in 1847 AD, Lama
Tsultim Nima at the age of 52 came here and
founded this monastery. Tegar is close to Sumoor,
just about 3 kms far. If you go up the hill and
observe the village you will find Tegar in a bow
shape. There is a small Gompa 'Maneykhang' just
besides the main road.
Places of interest
Charasa: the actual name of Charasa is
'Chak-ra-sa' means 'valley of iron'. It is
believed that iron is found in the mountains of
Charasa. The village is long and narrow with a
palace on a hill. There is an amazing thing to
see in Charasa palace. It is the sacred bones of
5th Panchen Lama. Charasa is the last permit zone
for tourist.
These are the few accessible sites of Northern
Nubra but if you take the left road from
T-junction you will get only two places to
explore in Western Nubra.
Disket: from the junction the road goes straight
for a while along the dry sandy river bed and
climbs steeply up the hill. It takes almost 15
kms to reach Disket. On the way you could view
the splendid meeting of Shayok and Siachen River.
Before the village actually starts you could
observe Disket monastery farther up the hill.
Panamik: It is about 30 kms away from T-junction.
On the way to panamik don't forget to look at the
green pasture with white salt like patches formed
on it. These are local sodas known as 'pul' which
is added in preparing butter tea of Ladakh. In
olden days this area was used on commercial
scale. Just near this area you can see a small
hill in the centre. Here I must insist you to
stop your car and go beyond the hills to look for
the most amazing landlocked 'Tirisha Lake'. The
Lake is so beautiful and majestic in its own way!
It is believed that person having good fortunes
might see reflection of 'Lhasa' gompa of Tibet in
the Lake water. After few kms you are in Panamik
which is known for its Hot Spring. The water is
meant to cure rheumastism. There is restriction
on tourist to go fare north beyond Panamik. But
you can cross the bridge of Hargam and can
approach one of the most famous Gompa of Nubra
'Ensa gompa'.
Sumoor:- Locally known as 'Sum-Yur". Sumoor
is quite a big village set along the Siachen
river. It is the model village of Nubra. This
place is worth staying as tea stalls,
restaurants, guest houses, medical centre all are
there. But the biggest attraction about this
place is Samstangling Gompa.
Hunder: Just 6 kms away from Disket comes Hunder.
Hunder is a beautiful pretty village.
Along the way you can grasp the breath taking
view of the incredible Sand Dunes! You can stop
here and walk down to the sand Dune and enjoy a
camel safari.
Even you might see wild and domestic Bactrian
camel (double-humped) roaming through the sand
dunes.A metallic bridge with a soldier guarding
there is your last point. A small Gompa just come
before the stop point. Inside there you may find
all statue of Maitreya Buddha flanked by
Bodhisattvas on its sides.
Navratras
harbinger of festivities
Rajesh Gupta
The festival of Navratri is
celebrated all over India with full devotion, joy
and passion. It is a festival which is celebrated
with pure happiness and is one of the most
auspicious occasions for Hindus. Navaratri is
celebrated twice a year- First in the month of
Chaitra (March- April) and secondly in the month
of Ashwani (September - October).
Chaitra Navratri commences with the start of the
Hindu New Year "VIKRAM SAMBAT" i.e the
1st day of the month of Chaitra.
Navratri continues for nine days. These nine days
are devoted to goddess Maa Durga, known as
Shakti. People worship her by referring as Mata
Sherawali as the first appearance of her sitting
on a tiger. It is believed that goddess Durga
exists in many forms and is worshipped during
this nine-day long festival. These various forms
of the Goddess are: Uma, Gauri, Parvati,
Jagatmata, Kali, Chandi, Bhairavi, Ambika etc.
For these nine days during Navratri people keep
fasts, go to temples, and sing devotional
prayers. The temples are beautifully decorated
with lights and flowers. In homes people place
the images of goddess Durga and worship her by
singing devotional songs and bhajans. Most of the
Hindus go to the temples to worship Devi Durga.
People also like to have jagran, chooki, in the
Navratri time. On the eighth and the ninth day
people like to end Navratri by calling small
girls to their home and giving them delicious
items to eat. This is also called as kanya
poojan.
According to legends, Navratri and Ram Navami are
celebrated for the birth of Lord Rama and his
victory over Ravana. As per the Hindu calendar,
the 9th tithi in Chaitra Sukla is observed as Ram
Navami to commemorate the birth of Lord Rama.
The worship of Lord Rama dates back to the
Pre-Christian era. About keeping strict fast on
Ram Navmi is mentioned in the Kalika Purana. The
Vrata of Ram Navami is considered as one of the
five most sacred vratas among Hindus. The
Ramachandrika and Vratarka also states that each
and everyone should observe this vrata as it is
the only means of worldly happiness and
salvation.
Navratri, celebrated in the month of March-April
is the starting of the Hindu New Year. The
nine-day festival is synonymous with the
celebration of Ram Navami. The Ram Navami
festival is celebrated on the last of this 9-day
long festival. Ram Navami is the birthday of lord
Rama, and is observed as the ninth day of the
waxing moon in the month of Chaitra
(March-April). Lord Vishnu is worshipped in his
human incarnation as Rama, the divine ruler of
Ayodhya. This day is celebrated with full joy in
Ayodhya, the place where lord Rama was born. A
two day fair is also organized there.
Celebrations start with a prayer to the Sun early
in the morning. A special prayer is performed
during mid-day, the time when Lord Rama is
believed to have been born. People sing and
recite devotional songs for Lord Rama and a
chariot procession is carried out on the street.
It carries four persons who are dressed as Lord
Rama, his brother Laxman, wife Sita and Rama's
disciple Hanuman. Many people dressed up in the
costumes of Rama's soldier also walk behind the
chariot.
During this period people gather in the banks of
the sacred river of Sarayu and perform holy dip.
On the day of Ram Navami, some observe a strict
fast They recite devotional songs and prayers in
praise of him. Some people arrange special
Ramach-aritamanas recital programmes to make the
occasion more devotional. There is regular
chanting of Gayatri Mantra 24, 000 times and
yagyan. The birth of Lord Rama on the day of Ram
Navami is believed to be the end of the evil era.
Navratri is an auspicious occasion for Vaishnavas
(a sect of Hindu who consider Vishnu as their
God) who celebrate it with due solemnity. There
is a popular belief that Lord Rama full fills
one's dream if he/she prays him on this day of
Ram Navami.
In Jammu Navratras are celebrated with enthusiam
and gaiety. People visit different temples.
Especially a huge rush is witnessed in Raghunath
Mandir. But the Chief attraction of the Navratras
is the Darshan of Goddess Bhawani (Mahakali) at
Bahu Fort. Tens of thousands of people visit the
shrine since very early morning. The whole city
of temples wears a festive look.
Lakhs of people visit Mata Vaishnodevi during
Navratras. To have the Darshan of the Holy Mother
in the form of natural pindies is considered
highly auspicious. Katra wears a festive lok
during Navratras. People from far and wide visit
the cave shrine. Ist Navratras is celebrated as
Navreh by Pandits of Kashmir. On this day a new
almanc for the year is released people have the
darshan in the morning of a basket full of nil,
on which flowers, walnuts curd, milk, pen, cooked
nil and a herb celled Wai (sweet
flag) is put. A mela is held at Chakrareshwar
temple at Hari Parvat in Srinagar on this day.
People start farting on Ist Navratras upto Ram
Navami. Pujas are regularily held in homes and
temples on Rama Navmi People visit Ram temples.
Sri Ragu Nath temple is the main attraction of
Ram Navami. of natural pandits is considered
highly auspicious. Katra wear a festive look
during Navratras. People from far and wide visit
the cave shrine.
It is hoped that these Navratras will bring
overall well being and prosperity to the country
in general and the State in particular. Navratras
are the herbinger of new light and festivities.
Let Navratras bestow upon the people of the State
all round prosperity.
Fort
of the Goddess Kali

A.K. Khanna
Jammu region is a land of shrines
and pilgrimages, the most renowned is the Mata
Vaishno Devi shrine, located 48 km away on the
Trikuta hills. There are numerous places belong
to different faiths. The people of the region are
deeply devoted to their land and especially their
places of worship. There is hardly any ancient
village or town, which does not have shrine of
its own. All temples and shrines have woven in a
variegated tapestry of myth and legend. The Bahu
Fort lies on hillock opposite the old city across
the Tawi River.
The fort is located on the second terrace with
most revered temple of Bahu or more popularly
known as Bawey Wali Mata inside it. On the
foothill, a terraced Mughal garden with musical
fountains, waterfall, flowerbeds, benches etc
have created as Baghe - e - Bahu. The beautiful
landscape attract tourist and is the city's most
popular picnic spot, a refuge for the young
couples. The whole terrace has an enchanting
view; after sunset with the lighting of mercury
lamps in the garden and flood lighted Bahu Fort
in the background provide a beautiful night view
from a distance. The terraced garden water
channels, flood light and waterfalls are worth
enjoying after the Sunset it becomes dark. Just
on back at the same level is a small fish
aquarium conceptualized in the shape of a large
fish with open mouth as its entrance and tail as
its exit. Inside, the belly there are many large
and small aquarium glass showcases exhibiting
verity of tiny and medium size fishes in
colourful ambience. The showcases in the form of
a small museum has glass jars with various sea
creatures preserved in formalin .The exhibits
have labels and information provided in English
language only is really an added disadvantage.
Besides there is no hand out available for the
general public about the names of the Fishes and
other displayed exhibits. The museums now -a-
days are considered as a source of living
knowledge rather than a dumb showcases in past .
The Dept of Floriculture must put Hindi /Urdu
labels and their translation in vernacular
language. The information under three-language
formula can do only justice with the huge public
money spent on the construction of beautiful
aquarium. Coloured lights and murmuring of the
water falling from the cascades of Baghe - e -
Bahu terraced garden reminds one the Mughal
Gardens of Shalimar and Nisht in Kashmir valley
and Pinjore Garden near Chandigarh.
According to the legend, King Bahu Lochan
credited with the foundation of the first Bahu
Fort and shrine. The original temple destroyed
around 1398. It remain in the state of ruins
until Raja Gulab Singh rebuilt the temple in 1822
after his coronation as the Dogra ruler of the
region. The Bahu fort built of Mughal Laukhuri
bricks in lime mortar and irregular on plan with
a high broad pathway utilized inside along the
wall for the safety of the fort. The main
entrance gate has an L shaped Gateway leading to
a large courtyard. on the both side of the
entrance are, provided with brick ramps and
staircases along the fortification wall, the
facility on the pathway for horses and man
respectively to climb and keep watch on the
security and safety of the fort. Below the
pathway further inside the wall are series of the
arched room for the soldiers to stay etc. There
is baoli enclosed by a high wall on the left side
of the entrance now in a bad state of its
maintance. There are many subsidiary structures
subsequently added for the use of the temple and
security guards quarters, which are now in use by
the police. The high fortification wall and
bastions at regular intervals from outside and a
broad elevated path constructed in the interior
all around the pathway served the purpose of
security and safety of the fort. Two to three
horses can run along the wall with ramps and
stairs constructed on the left and right side of
the entrance for the purpose. It jog your memory
the influences of the Mughal forts of Agra ,
Lahore and Delhi built by the various Mughal
emperors .
The shrine of Maha Kali considered as second only
to that of Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Ji in terms of
spiritual power and protector of Jammu city, is
the temple at Bahu or Bawey Wali Mata. The
principal day is Tuesday, the weekly day for
worship of the temple. The temple has two fairs
every year during the spring and autumn
navaratras. Large number of people pays their
obscene to the kali temple every day, as it is
one of the major tourist attractions in the city.
The black stone icon of black schist in the
sanctum of the temple believed to bring from
Ayodhya (Uttar Pradesh) in Central India. In
past, as several temples in the Jammu hills the
animal were generally sheep and goats scarified.
The same practice is still in vogue in the
Kamakahya Temple of Ghuwhati (Assam) in
Northeastern India. The animal sacrifice, an
ancient practice of the temple has stopped at
instance of Maharaja Partap Singh (1885 -1925) in
the early twentieth century. There a sacrificial
enclosure still exists in which even today the
goats kept to perform the ceremonial or Symbolic
ceremony of animal sacrifice. In course of
symbolic sacrifice ceremony, the animal remains
alive and only by sprinkling of the water and
chanting few mantras the ceremony considered as
complete. The priest gets his fee as usual for
performing the same. The practice of human and
animal sacrifice in ancient India remind us to
the switching over to the breaking of coconut is
the temples of South India instead of human and
animal sacrifices in one way or the other in 18th
century onwards .
Bahu fair or mela held twice a year during
Navaratras of Chaitya basakha (March-April) and
nine days of spring Navaratras are the biggest
and the most colourful crowd gather at the
temple.
The temple is square on plan located on a high
platform with black and white marble stone
flooring on all sides. The approach to the temple
is from three by a flight of steps. The Sanctum
Santorum is small in size and half horse vault
roof design in the back wall, which served as the
shrine chamber. The grabhagriha of the temple has
a black shining schist stone icon of Goddess
installed in with prominent eyes as the presiding
deity. The figure is six-armed Mata adorned with
finely tailored dress. The beautiful idol of Mata
has been the proctor and guardian of the Jammu
city. There is belief that the Goddess has
protected the City from any air raids during 1971
and 1975 Indo - Pak wars.
(The author is Dy. Superintending Archaeologist
Archaeological Survey of India)
Banihal
The gate way to Kashmir

Dr P K Kaul
Banihal had remained gate way to the
valley of Kashmir. Located at the foot of Pir
Pantsal ranges, it finds
mention in many ancient and medevial writings.
Rajtrangini (C-1000-1011 AD) mentions this place,
a very harrow mountain valley, as Visalta. This
region in King Uccalas of Kashmiris time was an
escape route from Kashmir for unwanted or
disgruntled elements of the Valley. In Jaysimha
or Kashmirs time (1128-49) a small fort is
stated to have existed just below the old Banihal
Pass, called by the name of Bansalla literally
meaning, a jungle or grove of trees. This castle
belonged to Khasa Lord Bhagika Ruler of the old
principality of Vishalta, the present Banihal
region. He was the son in Law of Tikka, the Lord
of Buddhal. Abu Fazal has derived the appeletion
of Banihal from Bansala. He also makes a mention
of a temple at Banihal, dedicated to the Goddess
Durga, where in enquiries, pertaining to coming
strife, if any, are made in a curious fashion
(probably in an oracle way of ancient Greeks or
as practised in Naga shrines of Jammu in the
recent past). This is also indicative that
Abu-Fazal, King Akbars official historian
may have passed through this route on his way to
or back from Valley of Kashmir.
Pandit Sahib Ram, who in his book
Tirthas copies
Abu-Fazals notes, metamorphosis the
Sanskrit name of village Banihal from Bhanusita
or Bhanusata i.e rocks of the Sun or land of the
Sun.
Stein on his commentary on Kalhans
Rajtrangini describes the place differently.
According to him, Visalata or Banihal must be
identified with the valley drained by rivulet
Bichlari, flowing through the area, a tributary
of river Chenab. This hill district situated
immediately to the South of Divsar and Shahabad
Parganas of Kashmir (District Anantnag) is
generally called Banihal after the mountain pass
of that name, to which it forms the approach the
name Vishalata is probably preserved in that of
the river Bichalari. But to me it appears that
the word Banhal is derived from Bansala, because
of the phonetic change of /s/ to /h/ phone, so
common a linguistic phenomenon in Local languages
and dialects. Banihal lies only few hundred
meters north of Adlkut and the Rajtranginis
castle of Bansala must have been visible from the
top of Banihal Pass clearly.
Because of its geographical position, difficult
accessibility of the region, and harder
mountaneous life style, Banihal like Kishtwar
always proved to be a safe escape route, and safe
refuge to the revolting Princes, disgruntled
chieftans, and conspirator from Kashmir, against
the Kings of Kashmir. Rajtrangini has made a
mention of many such nobles, Khasas and Damaras.
It was not only the Banihal region, but the
entire mountaneous region on the right bank of
river Chenab in Jammu, right from Kashtwar to
Reasi districts that proved to be a very safe
refuge for those who deserted for one or the
other reason. Banihal Pass also having the lowest
height (9200) above see level formed the
easier outlet from the valley for the pedestrians
in the Pantsal range. Rebel Chieftain from
Kashmir, like Dhanchakka (1001-1011 AD)
Bhiksachara and Sujji (1128-49 AD) and many
others also stayed at Banihal and planned an
invasion of the valley.
Today Banihal is the only motorable access to the
Kashmir through which national highway No.1,
runs, though other connecting roads are in the
making.
The mountain regions, highland pockets and mini
valleys that are part of Banihal consist of the
following areas :-
(a) Pugal : is the mountaneous region drained by
Pugal stream, a tribulary of Bichlari that comes
from the eastern mounains of Banihal. The area is
rugged and mountaneous. The people are hardy.
Pugali is the dialect spoken by some 12000
inhabitants. Cattle rearing is main occupation of
the people and Maize cultivated on sloppy land is
the main stable crop. It is curious and
interesting to note that another place in Bikaner
in Rajasthan is also known by the same place name
and have the same profession of sheep and goat
rearing. Milk and Ghee is the Cheif produce of
the region for export.
(b) Peeristan or Paristan : The area beyond Pogal
is called Paristan or Peeristan, which literally
means the abode of Fairies or Saintly person of
high miraculous powers. The area is rugged and
mountainous and very scarcely population. It also
includes Neel mountaneous region.
(c) Mahu - Mangat : In Banihal is another
mountainous region towards western Banihal,
drained by the rivulet of the same name, another
tribulary of Bichlariz. The area is rugged but
full of long grassy slopes, that attracted people
rearing goat, sheep and cattle in the region, who
inhabit it. Maize is the stable food cultivated
on sloppy lands. Milk and Ghee is the main
produce. The valley of Kashmir lies on the
immediate Northern side of it.
(d) Ramban : The old name of the place was Kamban
meaning the place of Kam trees, but when Maharaja
Gulab Singh passed through the place around
1819-20, he named it as Ramban. (1) Located at
75.420, Longitude and 33.170 Latitude the place
was not of much historical importance, except
that it was situated on the traditional mountain
route between Jammu and the valley, with most
suitable point of crossing of the mighty Chenab
river, and with a lowest height of pass on the
Pantsal range. Today it is the head quarter of a
newly constituted District of the same name, and
the site of a 630 Megawatt hydroelectric Project
of Baglihar, and an important station on the
national highway No.1.
(e) Batote : Some 120 kilometers from Jammu,
Batote, a fine hill state, with pine and Deodar
forest lies on the above mentioned National
highway just below the famous tourist station of
Patnitop. In the middle of last century, it was
only a small village, but with the construction
of Banihal cart road (B C road) in nineteen
forties, now a National highway, it has developed
into an important hill station of Jammu. Another
important hill station around it is the mountain
resort of Sanasar..
Heaven
for pilgrim tourism

Rakesh K Padha
A district which is strategically
located is just like a buffer between Jammu
Plains and Pir Panchal Hills. Udhampur Commands a
panaromic view of the Shivaliks. The all
improtant National Highway winds up as if it were
a necklace round the neck of the district. Apart
from the scenic beauty that Udhampur is endowed
with it has some of the most sacred spots which
too have a vast tourist potential. There are many
archeological and historical spots in Udhampur
which also have a tourist potential of their own.
It will be very apt to draw the attention the
readers towards the vast potential of pilgrim
tourism in Udhampur.
"Devika Temple : This holy river in district
udhampur originates from the foothill of Gangera,
situated in the vicinity of the udhampur
district, this big temple situated in the west
bank, along the Jammu -srinagar national highway,
of the udhampur district. In this with the main
shikhar, there are also tombs of other god &
goddesses, main entrance towards north side. This
temple is reconstructed by Maharaja Ranbir singh
during 1863 (as per available resources,
Courtesy: Duggar ke mandir- By Shiv Nirmohi Ji
),by the order of her mother Rani Rakkwali,where
as Rani's parental house was Chak Rakwalla in
Udhampur district. As this temple is situated
near the bank of holy river Devika also having
temple of Aap shambhu, believe to be very old.
Pilgrims /Tourists through out the country visit
over here in order to take dip of the elder
sister of holy Ganga, the one & only
Devika,for which Udhampur district is known for.
Three day Mela held every year on the eve of
Baisakhi where thousands of people visit during
these days. There is dire need of Yatri Niwas
over the bank of holy river Devika where people
throughout the country visit to take dip of holy
water, may stay there. It is also important to
write down here that a place where more than 8
crores have been spent over the last fiscal year,
does not have a single yatri niwas.It is here by
suggested that a two story well furnished
building of old age home already constructed
could be converted into yatri niwas & the
inhabitants could be shifted to Jagriti oldage
home udhampur.
"Sudhmahadev temple: just 112 kms away from
Jammu & about 60 kms away from udhampur
district towards Chenani tehsil .With immense
natural mountainous beauty, this spot has
instinct to feel like touch of heaven. As this
temple has Shiva lingam looks to be very old it
seems that it has been made during 17th century.
It believes that it is the place where God Shiva
appears, so it is called as Shudh (A place where
all sins has been destroyed), by taking a dip of
the paap nashini Bowli.It has been written in
temples abhilekha - that this is bestowed to the
Shivajis jaleri by her of the temple (dibhan
nath? who got it made for Rs.130 by Dekh ram (?)
& was inaugurated on 1st of magh 1825
corresponding to 22-1-1769. Mantalai, famous for
its beauty & sthan of Guru Dhirendhara
brahamchari an independent Shrine board on the
pattern of shiv khori shrine board must be
constituted wherein Sudhmahadev & Mantalai
may undercome.
"Dalsar -Batota Shiv Mandir - Ramnagar: This
different & historical temple of God Shiva
situated 5 kms west of Ramnagar tehsil of
Udhampur district, namely Dalsar religious place.
According to the available resources, it has been
reconstructed by Raja Ram Singh in 1892, then it
was just a temple of simple shilas.this temple
has amazing Shiva lingam which changes its
colour, in the - Morning, afternoon &
evening. This linga is Trimukhi, having clear
picture of Shiva & is very much attractive.
Dalsar area is also known for its religious
values, also having a big Sarovar which was
spreaded in over 32 kanals of land, now it is
squeezed. Around this Sarovar so many
archaelogical scripts are also present around the
sarovar. This place is also very important from
the archaelogical point of view. Now this temple
is known as Parkash Temple wherein large number
of devotees throughout the country visit, may
also come under shrine board. Not only attracts
devotees /tourists but also increase the Shrine
board revenue.
"Sankari Devta Mandir At Pancheri: This
temple is situated about 30 kms away from
udhampur district towards Udhampur to Pancheri
-lander road, famous for its worship, this temple
shows one of the face of God Shiva where large
no. of devotees through out the country visit
here every year, may find their desires to be
fulfilled. So many stories are associated with
this temple. A Dangal also organized every year
during the three days mela, where in every deptt.
Play its own role.
"Pancheri famous for its scenic beauty must
be developed so that large number of tourists may
visit overhere resultantly improvement in the
socio economic condition of the inhabitants may
be seen.
"Krimachi Mansar Pandav Mandir Temple : Just
7 km away from Udhampur, over pancheri - lander
road, near the bank of Buteshvari stream
,32degree N from equator & 75 degree east
from central line, having seven group of
templesbased on Nagar Shelli,made up of old
Pashan & Shilas,place is also known as Bhuti
Rajya in Dogra history; believe to be
reconstructed in 9th or 10th century. Some
historian believe that Krimachi was the capital
of Mahabharata era Raja Krichak Who constructed
these temples
This temple is divided into three parts--------
1st part has 5 groups of temples. 2nd &3rd
part has -------- 1 temple each.
"Baboor Group of temples : This group of
temples situated towards the south end of
udhampur near by 1 km of River Tawi ,& 8 km
towards north of Mansar lake.120 kms far away
from Jammu. Historian's belief is that this
devastated Nagar was the capital of Duggar state
during mid era. Old name of Baboor was
Babapoor,ruled over by Dhar Vansh &the first
king was Surajdhar .In Raj taringini ,there were
inscriptions of Kirtidhar &Vajradhar with the
king of Kashmir Raja Kalash(1087-88) &Sussal
(1112-1120)
Devi Bhagawati mandir,Dhera Mandir,,Kala Dehra-
1, Kala Dehra - 2, Nand Baboor temple .. The
temples not only famous for their architecture
design but also put light over Dogra Sculpture
art. In this, Vishnu, Shiva, Shiva in Nartya
Mudra, Bhairav, Bhrish vahan Shiva, Ganesh &
Sun. These temples spreaded over three sq. km.
area. It is believed that in (1398-99) Tamoor's
sena rocked the Manu Nagar, none other than
Babapoor that is why other name of Babapoor is
Manuwal. Also believe that this capital was safe
from the attack of Mahmood Gajnabi & Arabs.
"In order to promote tourism/trade in
district udhampur, A Base camp must be formed
because there is dire need of opening of Tourist
Reception Centre/Yatri Niwas, as it is the
central place where both Dhar road & NH1A
meets. So tourist coming from both these roads
may get specialty over here like yatri niwas,
Ticket Collection Centre for Amarnath Shrine; may
not only increase the Socio -economic status of
the inhabitants but also increase the opportunity
of employment to thousands of unemployed.
As our Hon'ble Chief Minister Sh. Gulam Nabi Azad
Sahib Ji who is very much committed & keen to
do justice to every corner of the state by
equitable development approach. It is here by
requested to the Hon'ble Chief minister to look
into this matter personally so that equitable
justice may be meet up.
Palace of LeH

A K Khanna
Leh Town is the district
headquarter, and the largest town of Ladakh
region of the State. It situated about 6 km from
the right bank of river Indus. The town lies
about 3505 m above the mean sea level.
Leh Palace is a legacy of Ladakhi`s wars with
Kashmir rulers in the 19th century. A miniature
version of Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet and the
highest building in the World of his own times
The Chicogo ( USA ) built multi storeyed
buildings in 1871, however , the Senge Namgyal`s
nine storey 17th century AD Leh Palace and the
Potala Palace of Tibet are the oldest extant nine
storeyed building in the world . The Leh Palace
inspired, the more refined Patola palace in
Lhasa, which was constructed half a century
later. The Palace is situated on the middle of
hillock on a rugged Rock surrounded by building
as the land mark of the town of Leh, just 6 km
from right bank of the Indus.The distance between
Srinagar to Leh is 434 Km and it takes two days
with an overnight stop at Kargil. Sonamarg is the
last major town in the valley of Kashmir. After
that climb began for Zojila (3529 m) and enter
Ladakh region.
Ladakh is the land of strange Gonpas, perched on
high barren hilltops, ancient palaces attached to
sheer rock walls and shattered looking landscapes
splashed with tiny brilliant patches of green
popular trees or Leh berry bunches. The harsh
climate made the Ladakhis as delightful as the
Tibetan people
Most of the people follow Tibetan tantric
Buddhism with much emphasis on magic and demons
while traveling from Srinagar to Leh, at Kargil
on the way to the Leh road. The Islamic influence
dies out and all around beyond are Gonpas, the
Buddhist monasteries etc. the Buddhist monks are
happy to have visitors wander around the Gonpas
and monasteries, to witness the ceremonies try
the butter tea and Lake photographs.
Originally the capital town Leh was founded in
the circa A.D.14th century by one Khri - gstug -
lde. It pronounced as Sle or Gle in the beginning
with the passage of time it |