The sacred shrine of Sudhmahadev

G L Khajuria

Man’s quest in search of God and his multihued manifestations began with the dawn of civilization and we Indian are of firm belief of all those manifestations of the beholder and attribute in its entirety of natural and supernatural ‘myths’ and ‘legends’ which speak in divinity tones, the truth of the remote past of millionia. And our sub-Himalayan regions lap in such beautious, enhanting abodes of Gods and Godesses in almost the entire terrain of the Himalayan region where pilgrims of all hues throng in huge number from India and abroad to seek bliss, peace and ultimate truth in our sacred shrines where rainbow-like colours radiate from the inner core of deepest rather darkest shadows of hidden treasure trove of instinctive privation.

Amongest such sacred shrines is the abode of ‘Lord Shiva’ at Sudhmahadev with His spiritual tridant (Trishul) depicted in the photo by the author within the complex of sanctimonious lord’s temple and in the backdrop of azure sky and vibrant lush green forests of Shivgar Dhar. Elsewere too. Lord Shiva has manifested at Om Parvat, Amar Nath, Gupt Ganga and so many of its allieds.
Situated around 120 kms from Jammu and, alienating from Jammu and Kashmir National Highway from Chenani towards its east arounding 30 kms and the road is passing serpentingly through lush green pines and oaks till one reaches the sanctimonious temple’s shrine where a three-day-long mela is most reverentially celebrated to pay obeisance and obtain blessings from ‘Shiv-Shakti’. This year, the mela begins on 29th June (Choudshi-a pious day) and is celebrated with due devotion by the locals, outsiders from HP, Punjab, Haryana so much to the extent of tourists from abroad. The sanctocity of the place is of immensive importance in so far goes its serene, scienic beauty, apart from multifaceted manifestations of ‘myths’ and ‘legends’ of utmost significance of attributions.
* Chenani hamlet : Barely in its perigree arounding 3 kms from NH-IA is the clustered Chenani hamlet had an ereswhile palace of Ram Singh where the most part of the multi-star movie, ‘Jaani Dushman’ by the R K Kohli was shot in and around the vicinity of this palace which was engulfed by devasting fire in 1992 and now extinct. However, the photo of the palace as captured by the author depicting its pristine glandeur and traditional phummian architecture is shown in the body of the write up.
* Gouri Kund : While on way to the sacred shrine, falls, en route, the most sacred spring around 15-16 kms from Chenani. As the legend goes ‘Mata Parvati’ or ‘Gouri’ after whose name the spring is named is highly regarded pious pond where ‘Mata Parvati’ meditated for a period of something around 15 years to find favour of ‘Lord Shiva’ still more is the sacred character of this region as it derives its prominence from the fact that ‘Dewak’ stream is poetized in our revered ‘Purans’ as the holiest of holy rivers. All pilgrims have first of all a holy dip in this pious spring before proceeding Sudhmahadev.
* Sudhmahadev temple : This historic temple of ‘Lord Shiva’ and ‘Parvati’ is 2800 years old and exists in the midst of serence, scenic and vibrant forest area. The place is renowned for its prominence of beauty and splendeur but more so to the legends associated with this sanctimonous shrine. Sudhamahadev is basically composed of two words ‘Sudh’ and Mahadev’ and as the legend goes that there used to be a demon by name ‘Sudhant’ who was a strong devotee of Lord Shiva.
‘Mata Parvati’ (Shiva’s consort), renwoned as the daughter of a Raja of ‘Mantali’, a picturesque spot hardly around 10-12 kms away from ‘Sudhmahadev’ used to meditate Lord Shiva in these hilly and lushgreen mountainous region to obtain her favour after having an holy dip at ‘Gauri Kund’.
And as the legend further goes, one day while ‘Mata Parvati’ was passing through these dense forests, demon ‘Sudhant’s’ evil eyes fell on her and he chased her. To Her utter agony, ‘Mata Parvati’ cried terribly, ‘Oh Lord Shiva, save me from the cruel hands of the demon’’. ‘Lord Shiva’, who was in his deep meditation and sensing the helping voice effused His anger and got infuriated and let loose his tridant (Trishul) which instantly decapped demon’s head who in turn cried agnostically, ‘‘Lord Shiva’’... ‘‘Lord Shiva’’.
Hearing his deplorable voice, the lord realized that He has killed his own worshipper and He, therefore, came to ‘Sudhant’ and promised to bring him backto his life. But in the arbitrary prayed over-whelmingly and said, ‘‘Oh my lord, I am fortunate enough to have been, killed piously’. Lord Shiva thus gave His divinity command at that place and so the name of the sacred shrine thence forth called as ‘Sudhmahadev’.
Insides of the temple are beautious and enthralling with black idol of ‘Lord Shiva’ and ‘Mata Parvati’ mounted on ‘Nandigan’ and this idol has been excavated from insides of Mantalai. The Lord’s tridant is well in existence which is reported of 16th, 17th century back (shown in the photograph). The broken trident is in three pieces sanctimoniously embedded within the complex of the temple and the top part of Trishul is having a height around eight feet or so.
According to the ‘‘Brahmi’’ inscription on the broken shaft of trident embedded in the temple courtyard the complex is as old as of 3rd-4th century AD. The inscription is in ‘‘Gupta Brahmi’’ which amply reflects the visit of one ‘Vibhunaga’ son of ‘Ganpati’ to this pilgrimage center in the mountainous region.
* Pap Nashi Spring : Just at the entrance of temple exists a natural spring of bygone ages with nectarclear perennial water enclaved horizontally by three sides above four feet with multifaceted statues and engravings of multihued Gods and Goddesses. The pious water of this spring washes off all sins and that is why the devotees before having holy darshan in the temple of ‘‘Lord Shiva’’ take a holy dip in this ‘‘Pap Nashi’’ spring.
There is a cluster of fresh water natural springs in and around the vicinity having their immensive importance of spirituality coupled with multihued medicinal properties. One such springs exists nearby Forest Rest House (FRH) Sudhmahadev whose water gushes out of the ‘‘stony mouth of Nagraja’’ perennially having nectar-clear water with curative values of digestive disorders and is a great appetizer. The ‘Forest Rest House, is located at an elevated place above Sudhmahadev hamlet with sprawling lawn in the back drop of vibrant, lutgreen and slabrious Forest of Pines and oaks of Dhar Shivgarh.
Sudhmahadev is further linked with ‘Man-Talai’ through a serpentine road of 12-13 kms amidst lush green pines, oaks and other beautiful broad leaved criss-crossing small springs and rivulets on way to Man Talai- a small hamlet having been named as Talai (a pond), which still exists there. Late Swami Dhirendera Bramcharya, with the spiritual outlook developed this picturesque spot a heaven on Earth A ‘Yoga Ashram’ was constructed here where people of all hues, men, women, preferably youth from India and abroad used to attend yogic classes.
* Mata Naina Devi : Atop Man Talai barely 5-6 kms uphill treck is the sanctimonious temple of diety called Mata Naina Devi of immensive shakti and is situated amidst thick pines where pilgrims throng in huge number for holy darshan and obtain blessings.
There is an expanse meadow like that of ‘Pahalgam’ and ‘Gulmarg’ in the Kashmir valley and this area warrants to be boosted as a tourist resort to attract pilgrims and tourists alike which shall in the arbitrary improve the economy of the local populace.
Conclusively, therefore, the Govt should focus such like shrines elsewhere too having peculiar features of mountainous attractions of Jammu, Kashmir and Leh Ladhak regions combining spiritual bliss with sizzling pulchritude of natural panoramas must be brought on the national and international map so that there remains ever-amounting influx of pilgrims and tourists alike and these rich varied symbolic and highly sensuous and sanctimonious shrine with fascinating fresco do deserve appealing of divine to enhance our tourist industry apart from flourishing economic status of our state.

(The author is Dy Conservator of Forests, J&K)

‘Sindhu that flows through Indian heritage’

S D Singh Jamwal

Ten years ago in 1997, Lal Kishan Advani, a Sindhi whose childhood memories of years spent on Sindhu banks, now in Pakistan, were refreshed when he visited the river in Leh and decided to launch a Sindhu Darshan Abhiyaan for the rediscovery of the ancient river Sindhu which roars like a thunderstorm and gave Sindh and Hind their names. Like millions, the journey through this river transported him to a civilization going back 5000 years. As the Indus valley civilization is synonymous with Harappa and Mohenjadoro which make every Indian proud, Advani was also thrilled to be with the ancient river. Sindhu or the Indus, the great trans-Himalayan river is among the longest rivers in the world with an astonishing length of 2900 kms (1800 miles). Rising in South-Western Tibet at Kailash-Mansarovar at an altitude of 16,000 feet, it enters Indian territory near Leh in Ladakh and has a total drainage area of about 4, 50,000 squares miles of which 1, 75,000 square miles lie in the Himalayan mountains and foothills and the rest is in the semi-arid plains of Pakistan. The river’s annual flow is about 2, 74,055,000,000 cubic yards – twice that of the Nile and three times that of the Tigris and Euphrates combined. The river’s name comes from the Sanskrit word “Sindhu”. Sindhu is mentioned in Rig-Veda, the earliest 1500 BC chronicle and hymns of the Aryan people of ancient India. It reads: “Sindhu in might surpasses all the streams that flow… His road is lifted up to the heaven about the earth; he puts forth endless vigor with a flash of light…. Even as cows with milk rush to their calves, so other rivers roar into the Sindhu. As a warrior king leads other warriors, so does Sindhu lead other rivers…. Rich in good steed, rich in gold, nobly fashioned, rich in ample wealth”. When the Vedic seer invokes heaven and earth, he also invokes the Sindhu as it is the oldest name in Indian history and geography. When Lord Shiva carried the immolated body of his divine consort Sati over the land, her skull top with its Hingula “Sindhur” fell at what has been Hinglaj ever since. It is near Karachi on the Sindh - Baluchistan border. Even this holy spot has been sanctified by the visit of Rama, Sita and Lakshman. The gushing Sindhu flowing through the bowl shaped Shey valley, situated 14 kms from Leh which has been witnessing Sindhu Darshan festival for the past ten years now. This re-discovery of Sindhu testifies that memories might fade away, the civilizations remain immortal. Shey village is its ideal example where this sleepy place in the land of lamas has already woken up to be a new destination on Indian tourist map with the Sindhudarshan festival. Starting from a handful of Sindhis led by Advani, Sindhu Darshan Abhiyaan has now transformed into a national event- Sindhu Darshan festival and has emerged as a symbol of national integration. ((The name of the festival has recently been changed to “Singhey-Khababs” which means sprouting out of lion’s mouth.) Launched as an Abhiyaan , the Sindhu Darshan has become as national festival which is being promoted by the Union ministry of Culture and Tourism. This national festival is aimed at projecting the Sindhu as a multi-dimensional cultural identity, communal harmony and peaceful co-existence in India. While promoting tourism to this area, this festival is also symbolic salute to the brave soldiers of India who have bravely fought the odds at Siachin, Kargil and other places. This year also, Leh - the moonland at an altitude of 11,500 feet in J&K State received a host of devotees and tourists from various parts of the country, for the three-day festival from 12-15 June 2007.
During this three days festival, the Sindhis joyously do the holy ritual Baharana (worship of water god) on the banks of river Sindhu. This they used to do in their original place in Sindh, now in Pakistan but after the Sindhu was discovered, the Sindhis do it here at Shey village near Leh in Ladakh more than half a century after, with fervour and reverence. “Baharana” is actually worship of water deity with a group of 20 artistes in Sindhi costumes carrying water from different parts of the country dancing to the rhythm of drum beaters and immersed in the Sindhu, a unique union of holy rivers.
The main highlight of the three-day festival this year was a cultural bonanza based on India’s unity in diversity besides Ladakhi dances and a balle by an art troupe of renowned actor Tom Alter. Aimed at bringing more and more domestic tourists to Ladakh and also popularizing the Himalayan destination among them, the festival was inaugurated by the Chief Executive Councillor, Ladakh autonomous Hill Development Council (LAHDC),Leh, Mr. Tsering Dorje . The main feature of the cultural bonanza was a 20-minute balle “Abhisaar Aa Bale” from the poetry of Guru Rabinder Nath Tagore based on the teachings of Lord Buddha which states that the ultimate salvation from body, mind and soul. This 20 minutes feature was presented by Tom Alter, Sharmila Ganguli and Raje Arimdhan. The festival is expected to boost Ladakh tourism, a favorite destination of trekkers located in the lap of Himalayas in Jammu and Kashmir. The Hill Council also aims at attracting the tourists to 13 Monastic festivals which would be held in Leh,three in Zanskar and one at Nubra with Hemis festival on June 25 and 26. Last year more than 43,000 tourists visited Ladakh, 6,000 more than the previous year while the just begun tourist-season this year is expected to reap good dividends. EOM

(The author is SSP vigilance Jammu).

Basohli Looking Beyond the Traditional

Devna Rastogi

Basohli also has religious attraction, especially the Mata Chanchala Devi temple built by the Pala rulers of the region in the 17th century. People come in large numbers during Navratras, falling twice a year, in the months of April and October. It is located atop a mountain, just outside the main town, from where one could for hours together view the Basohli town, its ruined fort, the mountain ranges of Himachal and the Ranjit Sagar dam. The most picturesque spot indeed in Basohli, with a divine blessing.

As a tourist spot, Basohli's strength lies in the following. The place has its unique and exquisite art in the form of the miniature paintings and the Pashmina shawls. Though a branch of the Pahari paintings, it is unique for the use of natural colours with geometrical designs, depicting love themes particularly of Radha and Krishna. Pashmina shawls of Basohli are distinct; they are beautifully woven primarily in white, beige and grey colours.
Basohli also has religious attraction, especially the Mata Chanchala Devi temple built by the Pala rulers of the region in the 17th century. People come in large numbers during Navratras, falling twice a year, in the months of April and October. It is located atop a mountain, just outside the main town, from where one could for hours together view the Basohli town, its ruined fort, the mountain ranges of Himachal and the Ranjit Sagar dam. The most picturesque spot indeed in Basohli, with a divine blessing.
From a historical perspective, it has a ruined palace, built by the Pala rulers. Overlooking the Ravi River, it still stands as a majestic structure. It has a lotus tank by its side and can attract people in large numbers. Basohli's Ram leela, held in October during the Dussehra festival of the Hindus, is a major event where even the Muslims participate as actors, along with the Hindus. It is a very popular event in the entire region.
The huge Ranjit Sagar Dam built across the Ravi is an added attraction to Basohli. The reservoir is huge with clear water; people of the town, to travel across, to the bordering state of Himachal Pradesh use the reservoir. The area is also famous for the trout.
However to attract tourist, the place needs basic infrastructure, despite being a tourist friendly area. In terms of security, the fact that there is neither militancy nor the presence of security forces, only make it look like any other tourist town in the neighbouring Himachal, which is just a few minutes travel across Ravi.
A major deterrent for the tourist inflow is the road connectivity. A comparative analysis of two roads on both the banks of Ravi will provide an answer as to why Basohli lacks tourist. The road from Lakhanpur to Basohli, on the west bank of Ravi is single, tiring and rusty. On the other hand, the road from Pathankot to Dalhousie, that runs parallel in Himachal Pradesh is wide, double laned and better maintained. At regular intervals there are sign boards to guide the tourist along with tea stalls, restaurants and petrol bunk. At least 10 kms before one reaches Dalhousie, hoardings of the hotels and the eating joints can be seen. On the contrary, one can hardly find any dhabas and petrol bunks on the road from Lakhanpur to Basohli. The key to the advancement of the area is the development of the roads for the convenience of the tourist. Efforts should be made by the government to construct rest houses for the stay of the travelers.
Despite the place having a rich art and culture, outside the region, not many people know about it. There are no shops where one can find these paintings for sale or a museum for the display of these paintings. Moreover, even in the town, not many people know the art except for the ones who have been doing this for ages. Efforts have been made by the locals to revive this art by forming an organization in the 1990s. This organization, along with the local police, started a school to teach the new generation the Basohli art, held a workshop in Kala Kendra in Jammu. The government should set up art galleries or museum for the display of the paintings. Training schools should be set up where people can learn the art and spread it to different places. Conferences, seminars and workshops can be held which will make these paintings popular.
Pashmina shawls of the area face stiff competition from the Valley. Their external markets are limited only to Leh and Ladakh as those areas are within reach. According to the weavers, the demand of the shawls has been on a decline since the same are being made in the valley as well. The other option of selling them to Himachal Pradesh, where they can get a good price, is hurdled by bad roads and longer routes which is time consuming. Added to that, is another problem of the demand being more for the embroidered shawls. But in Basohli nobody is in the embroidery field. All the embroidery and the dying of the shawls are done in the valley. Like the organization for the paintings, the shawl weavers can form an association for the betterment of their trade. The people are in favour of construction of a bridge, connecting Basohli to Himachal Pradesh, which will shorten the distance particularly to Dalhousie where the demand for the shawls is more. This will make marketing of the product unproblematic. The government can organize exhibitions for the display and sale of these shawls.
Surprisingly, the palace has no government maintenance except for the lawns under the floriculture department of Jammu. The palace should be placed under the archaeological survey of India which will dig out more about its history. The government along with the information available with the locals should publish pamphlets, small booklets which will provide sufficient information about the palace to the tourist.
By cashing on these, Basohli can be transformed into tourist hub. This, in particular will develop this region further.

AKHNOOR A historical township

A K Khanna

River Chenab has clear crystal very fast flowing water and spanning its bank like the fins of a whale as it debunchs from the hill down in the plains of Akhnoor. A town 28 Kms west of Jammu city on the road that leads to the west to Rajouri and Poonch. Akhnoor is situated overlooking on the higher terrace of the River. The Chenab on the right bank with the history going down with archaeological evidence of 5000 years from now. The left bank is plain and barren still has many archaeological sites in her lap like Malpur, a Neolithic site (New Stone age site). The Chenab originates from the Bara Lacha Pass in Himachal Pradesh at the height of 4891 meter above sea level, has been considered as the source of the glacier fed perennial river. The ancient knew the river as Asikni, it has two sources one which flows down south known as Chandra and that goes to north named as Bhaga. About 26 Km further south from Manali (a tourist spot in Himachal Pradesh), a motarable road runs along the river, from Khoskhas to Tandi (Himachal Pradesh). In all 107 Km of road run by the side of river during the sarjoun in Himachal Pradesh. The Chandra and Bhaga meets to form Chandrabhaga at Tandi (2825 MSL). It become Chenab when it joins river Marau ar Bhandera Kot, 12 Km from Kishtwar Town (J&K). The river then travels to Reasi, where it had been dammed at Salal (NHPC) a Hydro-electric project. There is a motorable road runs along the river in the stretch between Atholi, Malhori, Perah and Ramban, Kautham and Jourian. The road is often 50 to 100 meters above the river Chenab with wonderful view of various facets of the river.
The town of Akhnoor (32° 54' N; 74° 45' E) is situated picturesquely on the right bank of the river 28 Km South-west of Jammu in the foothills of Pir Panjal range. A few kilometers after river debunchs into the plains of Jammu. The river after traveling in serpentine manner for hundreds of kilometers in Himachal Pradesh and Pir Panjal range of J&K. Before Akhnoor town, a fort located overlooking the river and extremely important proto-historic site as the northern most site of Chalcolithic period or Indus Valley Civilization or Indus Saraswati Civilization of Manda. The Harappan site of Manda named after the village Manda, belongs to 3rd millennium BC. The present fort was probably started in 1762 AD at the behest of Raja Tegh Singh, as an autonomous principle state. His son Alam Singh completed the Akhnoor fort in 1802. On the eastern side, there are steps leading down to the River Chenab. Though constructed in the 18th century, most of the steps are in a good state of preservation. The ghat served as the important spot for performance of religious sites by the people of the region.
The turrets or Burj are still intact is called the Kishore Singh burj after Maharaja Gulab Singh's father who was a close associate of Guru Gobind Singh the 10th Sikh Guru. There are traces of paintings on the walls of the rooms of the fort. The Jia Pota or Jeo Pota temple in Akhnoor town on the bank of the river Chenab has a sedimentary rock that has been utilized as a place where Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab performed the ceremony of Raj Tilak or anointment of the Raja Ghulab Singh on 16th June 1862, when the Gulab Singh was barely 21 years old. Maharaja left nothing to chance the ceremony which was solemnised under the tree known as Jeo Pota. He also invited all the top chieftains of Jammu province to witness grand finnale of coronation. Mian Nihal Singh was the pre-eminent leader of Rajput Clan of the time. He pierced his finger and with his blood applied the tilak on Gulab Singh's forehead to coronate the Raja. This was considered as the sign of all other hill chief to accept the Gulab Singh as their king.
The fort of Akhnoor though a nationally protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India, due to the encroachment by various state Govt. agencies, the monument could not be preserved in its glory. The skyline of the fort intruded by a bulbous overhead water tank from a distance. All along the road the various offices and modern buildings in patches have encroached the ancient fort which could not be preserved as a tourist spot. The Akhnoor fort can be developed as a beautiful picnic spot combined with the glorious history going down from more than 5000 years from now. A proto-historic archeological site, a historic fort and a picturesquely located place is away from the hustle and bustle of the Jammu city life. cool, pure and unpolluted clear water provide for a refreshing bath in the river in summer. The high current of the river is dangerous to try for a swim even for a good swimmer. The river served as the one of the famous trading ports in the ancient times . It might have been the ancient trading port and the source of transporting of pine wood and walnut peel used as teeth cleaner, which anchored before it could enter the plains just before Akhnoor town and then transported by the road. The river played an important economic part probably upto the middle of the 20th century AD. The wood and walnut peel might have been the major items of the export through the old road leading to Sialkot and further toward the port of the Karachi now in Pakistan.
There are warves still existant on the right and left banks of Chenab in the land locked river on the both sides, just few hundred meter where the new bridge over the Chenab has been coming up. These wharves had been used as platforms to interpret the wooden logs and walnut peel which were transported through the force of water from the higher reaches. After passing through the present steel bridge of Akhnoor river Chenab fans like the fins of a whale and unmanageable for intercepting the transporting material. The border conglomerates which bound the river like the man made cementation is basically a geological formations which is about two kilometer long after the river enters the plain on the outskirts of the Akhnoor near Pambranvan. The fast current of the river, the clear crystal cold water in summer and extremely cold in winter, the colour of water changes with the season are important characteristics of the Chenab river.
The most beautiful view of the river can be had from the Akhnoor bridge. The sight of a rare phenomenon in nature one can enjoy is the point just beyond the Akhnoor town of the bend of the Chenab river which form into a 'Chicken Neck' as the river enter into the Pakistan. The bend of the river has been a contrast of the whirl-winding path the river travels through Mountains, gorges etc for hundreds of kilometers from its source down to the plains. The river has probably changed its coarse during the 6th century AD which has been attested in the archaeological excavation of 2000 AD at Ambrana, a Buddhist stupa site. The three flash flood lead's to the change in the coarse of the river from the old river bed next to the Akhnoor fort or before the town to the present coarse.
The site of Ambrana is located just 10 meter above the left bank of the river Chenab and the only site in Jammu and Kashmir being credited to have found with Sarizika stupa with a reliquary of Buddhist period. The replica of the stupa can be seen in the Nooruddin Shiekh Museum at Zorawar Singh Auditorium in the Jammu university. Akhnoor fort, can be developed as one of the most beautiful spot of Dogra heritage, outside Jammu city. The modern structures can be removed with little efforts of the Govt. and people of the Akhnoor town only to preserve the historicity of Akhnoor town.
(The author is Dy. Superintending Archaeologist Archaeological Survey of India)

Mela Moungri

G L Khajuria

‘‘Moungri mela’’ is celebrating in the month of may in the remote area of ‘Kainth Gali’ around 26 kms. falling in Panchari, district Udhampur. The mela is, defacto, of sacrosanctity of the beholder ; supreme ‘Lord Shiva’ and ‘Shakti’ (Mata Parvati) His consort. The mela is celebrated for three days every year at ‘Sar Dabbar’, Sar is a hindi word nomenclarised as water and so the wetlands and the lakes are annexed with Sar like, Sanasar, Mansar, Surinsar, etc and in this particular case ‘Sar Dabbar’, which in the time immorial was a lake which by the wishes of almighty dried and now the ‘Dabbar’ is well afforestated giving a vibrant and salubrious look. This is a sanctimonious spot where a huge mela is annually held in which devotees from far flung areas of Delhi, Haryana, HP and Punjab throng in thousands. * Lord Ganesha’s cave : The local legend is that this cave is of over millionia and non could ever calculate its age. Small statues of Nandigan, Counch, Nagdevs exist here. The length of the cave is too narrow with watery carpet and is around twenty feet where one can have holy darshan of Lord Ganesh, pay obeisance and obtain blessings.
* Lord Shiv-Parvati cave ; This cave is also locally spoken as ‘Shiv Parvar’ and front-face is of very had rock devoid of even a single drop of water and is 29 feet standing height where there are engravings of Lord Shiva, Parvati, Serpents, counch, a stony pigion etc.
* Kancer Rivulet ; Alongside cave’s complex flows a nectar-clear nallah by name as Kancer having glacuous water at purity and most of the devotees at occasion have holy darshan of ‘‘Nags’’ and ‘Nagins’. The gushing water fall of the pious water still adds to the enchanting beauty. This river or to say rivulet is the confluence of two perennial rivulets viz ‘Moungri’ and ‘Kalsote’.
* Sunny Reflection to holy caves : It is wonder of wonders that on each clear day the Sun salutes these caves between 10 A.M to 11 AM the rays which reflect over the pious and honey-dewed waters of Kancer stream. This is also locally spoken as ‘Surya Shanan’ to these caves.
* Gujraj Spiritual View : Here again, one encounters still more and more wonders of nature when one climbs barely 300 metres atop the caves and becomes wonder struck after glimpsing Gujraj an elephantine image with tusks and pot-bally drinking water through His Proboscis from Kancer and still it is wonder strucking that the entire chirpine forest seems like body hair on the Gujraj.
"Moungri" is a small hamlet with two caves of magnanimity which are none the less than other spiritual shrines spread over the hilly terrain of Himalayas (outer and inner). As narrated by Swatantra Dev Kotwal of Panchari, these caves came to lime light on 14th September, 1998 in the realm of dream when the local gathered and it was to their utmost astonishment on glimpsing these miraculous caves of 'Lord Ganesha' and 'Shiv Parvati' and till date an annual mela is held on Ist of Jeth (Adeshi month) and people of all hues gather here.
Though, unbelievable but the fact remains that the 'duo caves' are of their sanctified reverence which speak silently in the divinity tones. The insides of caves also accommodate Nandigam, Nagrajs, Counch, Narsinghdev and many of their pious ilk of sanctocity which are of abysmal reverence and an amplitude of their unique and appropriate sanctociousness. Mr Kotwal is as well the Chairman of ‘Shiv Parvati Cave Shrine’ Moungri who looks after the entire arrangements assisted by Kailash Dev as publicity secretary and the duo are of the view that 'Baradari' should be judiously utilized for the development of caves complex.
Trishul Shanan: Just on the very onset a splendour Trishul is given holy dip by the local Chhari (Holy mace) and thence attuned by wide, varied music of drums, flutes with bequantial songs in the reverence of Shiv Parvati - Har Har Mahadev echo the skies towards atop of caves and a puja is held devotionally by all and one who accompany the holy mace which after fulfilling all rituals descends down with the same tradition and first pay obeisance to lord "Ganesha". The holy mace, then have holy darshan of 'Lord Shiva and Shakti - Mata Parvati'.
Suggestive measure for enhancing beauty
* Road Connectivity: The road is 'Kacha one' linking Moungri from 'Kainth Gali' arounding 20 kms and upto 'Sar Dabbar'. The road warrants to be upgraded by metaling and black-toping so that it becomes well-shapped for the convenience of pilgrims in particular and the public in general who have to encounter long distances to the far-flung areas of inhabitations.
* Increasing No. of Vehicles: Currently, three buses ply over the entire track which, in toto, are inadequate and the numbers of buses/other conveniences need to be enhanced.
*Stepping of rough path watch Chain Links: Since the devotees accompanied by little kids go for holy darshan and there are every apprehension of them to be drifted. In order, therefore, to avert such eventualities, it is pertinent to accomplish this task of chain-linking the pathways.
*Shelter - Belts: Shelter-belts with green top plastic sheets will not only provide shelter to the locals but as well add beauty to the spots, boosting tourism.
*Toilets: There is no such provision and this warrants to be introduced on the analogy of 'Vaishno Devi Mata' shrine.
*Foot Bridge Over Kancer: This is most pertinent and its construction shall facilitate locals, apart from making the sacred shrine a pilgrimage spot around the year.
*Introduction of Flowering Plants: The introduction of Nerium, Bouganivillea, bottle-brush alongside the path shall enhance beauty and glorify the areas.
*Creation of Wildlife Park: Long back, when Mahmood Iqbal was DDC Udhampur, the idea was mooted for the formulation of a small wild life park which remained as hanging fire but now needs to be introduced.
*Boosting Greening: Here, the Deptts of Forests, Floriculture, Horticulture, Seri-Culture shall have to make all things in bringing a green revolution, apart from enhancing fruit cultivation this is the best zone for cultural apple (Ram Phal, Sila Phal, Laxman Phal)
* Bringing the Spot on Tourist Map: Keeping in view the sanctity of spot, huge number of pilgrims shall also improve the local economy.
*Declaring Holiday for Udhampur Distt: As for Sarthal Devi, Machail Yatra, a Gazetted holiday needs to be incorporated on the annual calender for this shrine.
* Creation of Shrine Board: An enactment needs to be brought under legislation to bring the spot under Shrine Board.

The author is
(Dy. Conservator of Forests)

The Saga of saffron

Sarvadaman

Saffron has long history of over 5000 years in Kashmir, India and is supposed to have been introduced into china by the Mongol invasion.it is mentioned in the chinese Materia medical (1552-75). Derived from the Arabic word `Azaferon´ which means yellow, Saffron has an amazing healing ability. It was cultivated by the Arabs in spain about 961, and is mentioned in the English leech book of the 10th century,but seems to have disappeared from western Europe till reintroduced by the Crusaders. According to Hakluyt, it was especially cultivated near histon in Cambridgeshire, and in Essex at saffron walden, its cultivators being called `Croakers".
There is refference to saffron in the Srimad Bhagwatam where the queens of lord krishna and other ladies of Dwaraka smeared their bodies with saffron powder.Then once again, saffron is reffered to in Solomon 4:13-14 in the bible. In Rome it was spread on the floors of theatre as a perfume.A little after the death of Buddha,water soluble saffron dye become the official colour of the Buddists. Reference of the spice in the scriptures is a pointer to the fact that saffron was considered very auspicious. Saffron is used extensively in Mughlai cuisine. The Mughuls loved the aroma of saffron flavoured foods, especially their pillaus and biryanis. Historical records show that there were thousands of bighas of land under saffron cultivation during the Mughul rule in india. Saffron has been the most important cash-crop of Kashmir since ancient times. The ancient and medieval historians have proudly referred to its cultivation, in Sanskrit it is called Kumkuma, in Hindi, Kesar, in Arabic it is referred as Zafaran’.
Its origin has been traced from the legends. For example, it has been mentioned that there was a physian who resided at Padampur (modern Pampur in Kashmir). A Naga (a local water-deity) came to him for cure of his eye-disease. The Naga could not get any relief despite medicine. This astonished the physician. The fact was that the effect of medicine was neutralised by the poisonous vapours, issuing from Naga’s mouth. The physian then wrapped a cloth on his (Naga’s) eyes and he got cured. Out of gratitude he presented a seed (bulb) of saffron to the physian. There-after the saffron crop came up in Padampur.
In addition to Kashmir valley saffron also grown in Kishtwar,
Jammu Division. This Saffron too has a unique & Best quality of its own.
Nothing much is known about the steps taken to increase its production but saffron continued to be cultivated and used in Cuisine. Saffron was one of the items received as present or tribute. When Akbar conquered Kashmir in 1586 A.D. he reserved the cultivation of saffron as Khalisa or royal monopoly. During Sultanate period Saffron flowers were picked and cleansed by labourers who were paid very little or no wages. Thus the begaar (forced labour) was the main cause which might have led to the decline of saffron production. Akbar realising its importance in terms of income, took some very effective steps to increase production. Secondly, he brought more area under cultivation. Thirdly, better supervision was made at the final stage. All these steps paid rich dividends. The production went upto all time high i.e 90,000 traks. It became a major source of state income and was retained a state monopoly till the end of Mughal rule.Mode of cultivation

Saffron botically speaking is derived from crocus family. Its scientific name is crocus sativus. The corms resemble garlic but are grey in colour. They are covered with a hairy sheath. The seeds are sown in August September. Land is prepared months before. Previously the land intended to be sown with saffron was kept fallow for a season. Then it was ploughed at regular intervals. The loany soil had to become pulverised and for it 16 ploughings were considered sufficient. Then the seed is sown in the furrows which is covered with soil. Small rectangular plots are made to facilitate the drainage of rain water. Rain water should not accumualte in the field which can harm the seed. These rectangular plots are called ‘wari] in Kashmir: About 100 waris are made in one kanal of land.
Special soil is required for its cultivation. The seed of saffron resembling a garlic (corm). The flower appears in the month of October. The length of a plant is six inches at the most but variations have been found due to the quality of the soil. The flower comes on the top of the stalk and have six petals and six stemens. Three of the six petals have a fresh lilac colour and stand around about the remaining three petals. The stemens are placed likewise. Only the red stemens surrounded by yellow ones yield the saffron. The saffron plant continues to yield flowers for six years. During first two years, the yield is less but in the third year, the plant becomes perfect and the yield is substantial. After six years, the seeds (bulbs) must be taken out and planted in fresh ground and the original field is left fallow to recover its fertility.
Areas of cultivation
Saffron is traditionally grown in the areas around Pampore. Actually it is best grown in Karewas around ‘Wasturwan’ and Zevan. The whole area was called Pargana ‘vihi’ is the best suited to its cultivation. The three Karewas named ‘Sombur’, Wattan’ and Lethapur were the traditional areas. But now its cultivation has spread to other areas as well.
As saffron crop needs special soil, therefore, its cultivation was restricted to Pampur (Ancient Padampur) in the district of Maraz and in Paraspur near Inderkot in Kamraj district. (in past)
Use of saffron
Saffron is used in many ways, for example, its use is made in worship. The Hindu women used it as a mark on the fore-head. It was also used on cheeks to get a golden colour. It was also used in winter for massaging the body because of its fragrance, stimulation and heating qualities. During Zain-ul-Abidin’s and earlier times, it was used to give colour to the cooked rice. Kashmiris used it in their Kohwa (tea). It was also used in perfumes. During Akbar’s period, its cost was eight to twelve rupees per tola. It is also used in medicine.
Export of saffron
Kashmir had some agricultural products which were very much popular in other regions of India. Therefore, these were exported to these regions. Among the products, one was Saffron. Kashmir’s main Jins-i-Kamil (cash-crop). These crops are not only important from intra-region trade point of view but were equally important for inter regional trade. It is important to mention that saffron was one of the costliest products of Mughal India and Kashmir had a virtual monoply over it. Saffron yielded handsome income to the State. Because of its important Kashmiris refered to it as ‘Kashmir Raja’ and cultivation associated with it were watched like ‘diamond diggirs’. The crop has now assumed multifarous uses and is now a universal crop in terms of use.
Saffron was used as a ingredient in many of the complicated medicines of the early times.
Even today,in Asia Ladies take Saffron with milk during the pregnancy period,for good health and fairness of new borns.It was largely used in cookery is evidenced by many writers, the Chinese used to employ it largely and the Iranians,Spaniards and indians stillmix it with their rice. (eg. The Clown in The Winter´s Tale says:he "must have saffron to colour the warden pies").Saffron is also repeatedly mentioned in Homer , Hippocrates and other greek writers.
In india ,on account of its therapeutic and dyeing properties,the saffron dyed clothes became yhe official robes of the buddha (5th century BC) and his followers and later the Hindu priests from(3rd century AD). Presently Saffron is a declining crop. It has been ravaged by diseases and low yield. the area under its cultivation is geeting shrunk by reckless building activity. Sincere efforts are needed to revive the great heritage crop of Kashmir for which it was once called ‘KUMKUM DESH)

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Budhal - Hill Station of Rajouri

K D Maini

Proper Budhal is a small town containing about 100 shops, Police Station and about 300 houses. It is situated on the mound near Gabbar Nallah in between 33 degree 23 mnts latitude and 74 degree 41 mnts longitude. The town falls on the Southern range of Peer Panchal which is connected with motorable road with Rajouri. Another road from Budhal to connect Gool Gulabgarh is also under construction. This beautiful spot is existing on enroute to Budhal pass or Sedhu pass which leads towards the valley while the Sedhu pass is about 24 kms from Shopian (Kashmir) and 25 kms from Budhal town.
Budhal is a beautiful valley located in between the main Peer-Panchal Range of mountains. The geography of the area is comprised of snow capped attractive peaks, thick forests, gushing streams, crystal clear lakes, meadows and pastures. No doubt that the area could not be developed properly and no tourism activity is available, but keeping in view the natural scenic beauty, this area easily be compared with the terrain of valley and can be developed for tourism purposes by constructing huts/touist sarais at Koteranka. By this way, the condition of the people can also be improved.
Proper Budhal is a small town containing about 100 shops, Police Station and about 300 houses. It is situated on the mound near Gabbar Nallah in between 33 degree 23 mnts latitude and 74 degree 41 mnts longitude. The town falls on the Southern range of Peer Panchal which is connected with motorable road with Rajouri. Another road from Budhal to connect Gool Gulabgarh is also under construction. This beautiful spot is existing on enroute to Budhal pass or Sedhu pass which leads towards the valley while the Sedhu pass is about 24 kms from Shopian (Kashmir) and 25 kms from Budhal town. Most of the trekkers are using Budhal as a base-camp and track the Peer Pachal range via Sedhu pass towards Kashmir.
Renowned Research Scholar Late Moti Lal Saki wrote in one of his article that the native place of Khasha Tribes was between Banshala (presently Banihal) and Rajouri (presently Rajouri) i.e Budhal area. Khashas were great worriers who ruled Rajouri and Kashmir in 9th and 10th century AD. Some historians go upto this extent that the name of Kashmir was derived from Khasha Tribe as Khashmar. Lateron, it changed from Khashmar to Kashmir. From 10th century onward till 19th century, there is no direct reference about the Ruler who ruled Budhal area. It appears that during this period, Budhal remained the part of Rajouri principality which remained mostly ruled by Jaral Muslim Rajas and the worrier tribes of Budhal area were also remained taking parts along with the parts in the battles along with the forces of Rajas of Rajouri.
In 1846 AD, when Rajouri was captured by Maharaja Gulab Singh, Raja Rahim Ullah Khan of Rajouri was compelled to leave the principality. Thakker Namdhar Khan’s son Bandhu Khan alongwith his other family members, also accompanied Raja Rahim Ullah Khan and in light of the decision taken by the residents of Lahore, Raja Rahim Ullah, Bandhu Khan and his family left their native places once for all and settled in village Rohallo of District Kangra in Himachal Pradesh. Bandhu Khan died there leaving behind his two sons namely Sherbaz Khan and Mohammad Hafiz Khan. They tried to come back to their native principality Budhal but they were not allowed by Maharaja Gulab Singh and so they left back and Budhal remained governed by the Dogras.
From 1846 onwards, Budhal remained part of Rajouri Tehsil which was initially governed by Mian Hathu. In 1860 AD, this area became the part of Bhimber District while in 1904 AD Budhal was also affiliated with Reasi District like Rajouri and this Administrative set up continued upto 1947.
In 1947, like other parts of the state, Budhal area also became hot and tense due to infiltration and attacks of raiders and PoK army. Immediately after Independence, Pakistan tried to capture Poonch and Rajouri area. Since at that time, Maharaja Hari Singh was having only 8000 Dogra forces which were scattered throughout the state i.e in Ladakh, Gilgit, Kashmir, Jammu and Poonch. On the other hand, the revolt of Suddans which was started from Poonch was comprised of about 60000 retired ex-servicemen of 2nd World War besides 30000 tribesmen of MWFP. This revolt was also having full support of Pakistan army. Therefore, they became able to capture almost all parts of Poonch except Poonch city upto 26th October, 1947 when the raiders declared so called Azad Government under the leadership of Sardar Ibrahim Khan in a Primary School at Trarkhal a village of Poonch District. On 13th of November, the infiltrators and deserters of Maharaja’s forces under the command of Captain Rehmat Ullah and Sakhi Diler Suddan captured Rajouri after committing large scale atrocities at Rajouri. They also went towards Budhal and captured the town. The infiltrators nominated Mirza Mohammad Hussain as the Administraor of Rajouri area which included Budhal also. Mirza Mohammad Hussain further nominated Sardar Jalal Din as Administrator of Budhal. This set up remained continued during the winter of 1947 and upto the beginning of summer of 1948.
Presently , 65 percent population of the tehsil is living below poverty line. Due to locational disadvantages, very less development has taken place in the past. Serious efforts are being made for the development of the area by creating infrastructural facilities like road linkages, construction of school buildings, health institutions, provision of drinking water facilities, electrification of villages etc.
Under Beneficiary Oriented Schemes, people are getting full benefit of plan funds while under the National Social Assistance Programme (NSAP), old-age pension is being provided to 2500 persons. 725 trainees have so far been trained under various trades enabling them to start their ventures. No doubt that due to militancy related activities, the tehsil has suffered a lot and the officers are not in a position to monitor the schemes in remote areas. Even then, full efforts are being made to help the people to create infrastructure, to implement various nature of Beneficiary Oriented Schemes and to redress their grievances by solving their problems.
Budhal has good potential for tourist point of view. Its scenic beauty can attract tourists from the State as well as from outside the state. Moreover, this track can be used for adventurous tourism also. Therefore, there is need of development of this area for tourism purposes so that the poverty could be removed in one side and area could be developed on the other side.

Valley of Flowers

Stanzin Zanang

Nestled in the lap of nature lies ' Ldumra'. Ldumra is the local name for Nubra which means 'Valley of Flowers'. Truly, the words itself expresses a lot. The valley is a superb art of nature. Its breath taking scenic view can astonish any body reaching out there for the first time. Climate much warmer than Leh, beautiful landscape with two mighty rivers, patches of sand dunes, rich wild life, great glaciers and Karakoram Ranges are all about a flash description about Nubra valley. Until 1947, Leh had a trading relation with central Asia through Karakoram Range of Nubra. Just imagine how prosperous could be the valley during that time! Now let's come back to Karakoram pass. Karakoram pass alongwith other peaks and glaciers comes under Karakoram range. Karakoram pass used to provide main trading links between markets of Leh, Yarkhand and Kashgar. But unfortunately these areas are closed to tourist now. Since then silk route trade also diminished gradually. Later in 1962, India's war with China further worsened the situation across the border areas to Ladakh that includes. Rupshu, Tsomoriri, Pangong lake and Nubra Valley. And thus Ladakh as a whole remained closed to foreigners. Since 1974 when Indian Government reopened Ladakh to the foreigners Leh is doing a great job and progressing a lot. But in some regions including Nubra Valley, only a limited part of it was given authorized to open for the foreigners. Thus these paradise remained locked except some places. This is the reason why its gems (great monasteries) remain hidden to the people across the state and countries. So when you read any book on Nubra it is obvious that you might not get detail information regarding the monasteries over there. But it doesn't mean that Nubra is not rich with monasteries. In fact each and every village scattered over there has at least one monastery whether big or small. Not only monasteries, Nubra is rich in every way. The climate of Nubra is considered to be the best one in Ladakh. Nubra is also rich in mineral deposit. Just recently, geologists from Kumaon University have found exceptionally high concentration of uranium and Thorium in Udmaru, a small village in Nobra. But this finding could be commercial interest only if large quantities of its deposition are indicated.
Monasteries of Nubra
Disket Monastery :- it is the largest monastery in Nubra and is more than 350 years old. The monastery was founded by Lama Sherap Zangpo of Stod. Disket monastery follows the Gelukpa order of Tibetan Buddhism and is a branch of Thiksey Gompa. There are three prayer rooms, Library and a school for little monks. About 120 monks reside in the monastery under the head Lama Nawang Jampa Stanzin who is 9th reincarnated Lama to hold this position. Just below the monastery there is a beautiful 'Photang' or residence of Dalai Lama, beyond which on the top of a hill, a giant statute of Maitreya Buddha is under construction. Disket is the main administrative centre of Nubra. So you can find all facilities over there. There are plenty of Guest Houses and a hospital in the heart of Disket. You can also approach the tourism office just besides the market if you need any information or help.
Ensa Gompa:- It is the oldest monastery of Nubra founded by Stod Changsem Sherap Zangpo during the reign of King Dakspa Bumde. Sherap Zangpo was one of the disciple of famous translator Tsongkhapa, who founded the Gelukpa order of Buddhism. It is believed that Lhasa Gompa of Tibet was first to be Built on this holy place. But unfortunately due to some reason, a great Lama named Dachompa Nima Gungpa refused to build the Gompa there and left his print of right foot at Ensa.
Dachompa Nema Gungpa had power to fly with his own religious cloth (Zang~gos). His foot prints are preserved well and still can be seen in places like Ensa, Morgi, Charasa and Tsati. And as such he went to Tibet and Built Lhasa Gompa there. Thus only his foot prints remains as evidence. So when you are there at Ensa please don't forget to see the foot prints of Dachompa in one of the three prayers rooms of Ensa. Buddha Purnima is celebrated in Ensa Gompa. And I must say don't miss this chance if you are in Nubra at that time.
Moving along Siachen River you are approaching towards Charasa after crossing two small villages Morgi and Kuri….
Samstanling Monastery: Built in 1847 AD, Lama Tsultim Nima at the age of 52 came here and founded this monastery. Tegar is close to Sumoor, just about 3 kms far. If you go up the hill and observe the village you will find Tegar in a bow shape. There is a small Gompa 'Maneykhang' just besides the main road.
Places of interest
Charasa: the actual name of Charasa is 'Chak-ra-sa' means 'valley of iron'. It is believed that iron is found in the mountains of Charasa. The village is long and narrow with a palace on a hill. There is an amazing thing to see in Charasa palace. It is the sacred bones of 5th Panchen Lama. Charasa is the last permit zone for tourist.
These are the few accessible sites of Northern Nubra but if you take the left road from T-junction you will get only two places to explore in Western Nubra.
Disket: from the junction the road goes straight for a while along the dry sandy river bed and climbs steeply up the hill. It takes almost 15 kms to reach Disket. On the way you could view the splendid meeting of Shayok and Siachen River. Before the village actually starts you could observe Disket monastery farther up the hill.
Panamik: It is about 30 kms away from T-junction. On the way to panamik don't forget to look at the green pasture with white salt like patches formed on it. These are local sodas known as 'pul' which is added in preparing butter tea of Ladakh. In olden days this area was used on commercial scale. Just near this area you can see a small hill in the centre. Here I must insist you to stop your car and go beyond the hills to look for the most amazing landlocked 'Tirisha Lake'. The Lake is so beautiful and majestic in its own way! It is believed that person having good fortunes might see reflection of 'Lhasa' gompa of Tibet in the Lake water. After few kms you are in Panamik which is known for its Hot Spring. The water is meant to cure rheumastism. There is restriction on tourist to go fare north beyond Panamik. But you can cross the bridge of Hargam and can approach one of the most famous Gompa of Nubra 'Ensa gompa'.
Sumoor:- Locally known as 'Sum-Yur". Sumoor is quite a big village set along the Siachen river. It is the model village of Nubra. This place is worth staying as tea stalls, restaurants, guest houses, medical centre all are there. But the biggest attraction about this place is Samstangling Gompa.
Hunder: Just 6 kms away from Disket comes Hunder. Hunder is a beautiful pretty village.
Along the way you can grasp the breath taking view of the incredible Sand Dunes! You can stop here and walk down to the sand Dune and enjoy a camel safari.
Even you might see wild and domestic Bactrian camel (double-humped) roaming through the sand dunes.A metallic bridge with a soldier guarding there is your last point. A small Gompa just come before the stop point. Inside there you may find all statue of Maitreya Buddha flanked by Bodhisattvas on its sides.

Navratras harbinger of festivities

Rajesh Gupta

The festival of Navratri is celebrated all over India with full devotion, joy and passion. It is a festival which is celebrated with pure happiness and is one of the most auspicious occasions for Hindus. Navaratri is celebrated twice a year- First in the month of Chaitra (March- April) and secondly in the month of Ashwani (September - October).
Chaitra Navratri commences with the start of the Hindu New Year "VIKRAM SAMBAT" i.e the 1st day of the month of Chaitra.
Navratri continues for nine days. These nine days are devoted to goddess Maa Durga, known as Shakti. People worship her by referring as Mata Sherawali as the first appearance of her sitting on a tiger. It is believed that goddess Durga exists in many forms and is worshipped during this nine-day long festival. These various forms of the Goddess are: Uma, Gauri, Parvati, Jagatmata, Kali, Chandi, Bhairavi, Ambika etc.
For these nine days during Navratri people keep fasts, go to temples, and sing devotional prayers. The temples are beautifully decorated with lights and flowers. In homes people place the images of goddess Durga and worship her by singing devotional songs and bhajans. Most of the Hindus go to the temples to worship Devi Durga.
People also like to have jagran, chooki, in the Navratri time. On the eighth and the ninth day people like to end Navratri by calling small girls to their home and giving them delicious items to eat. This is also called as kanya poojan.
According to legends, Navratri and Ram Navami are celebrated for the birth of Lord Rama and his victory over Ravana. As per the Hindu calendar, the 9th tithi in Chaitra Sukla is observed as Ram Navami to commemorate the birth of Lord Rama.
The worship of Lord Rama dates back to the Pre-Christian era. About keeping strict fast on Ram Navmi is mentioned in the Kalika Purana. The Vrata of Ram Navami is considered as one of the five most sacred vratas among Hindus. The Ramachandrika and Vratarka also states that each and everyone should observe this vrata as it is the only means of worldly happiness and salvation.
Navratri, celebrated in the month of March-April is the starting of the Hindu New Year. The nine-day festival is synonymous with the celebration of Ram Navami. The Ram Navami festival is celebrated on the last of this 9-day long festival. Ram Navami is the birthday of lord Rama, and is observed as the ninth day of the waxing moon in the month of Chaitra (March-April). Lord Vishnu is worshipped in his human incarnation as Rama, the divine ruler of Ayodhya. This day is celebrated with full joy in Ayodhya, the place where lord Rama was born. A two day fair is also organized there.
Celebrations start with a prayer to the Sun early in the morning. A special prayer is performed during mid-day, the time when Lord Rama is believed to have been born. People sing and recite devotional songs for Lord Rama and a chariot procession is carried out on the street. It carries four persons who are dressed as Lord Rama, his brother Laxman, wife Sita and Rama's disciple Hanuman. Many people dressed up in the costumes of Rama's soldier also walk behind the chariot.
During this period people gather in the banks of the sacred river of Sarayu and perform holy dip. On the day of Ram Navami, some observe a strict fast They recite devotional songs and prayers in praise of him. Some people arrange special Ramach-aritamanas recital programmes to make the occasion more devotional. There is regular chanting of Gayatri Mantra 24, 000 times and yagyan. The birth of Lord Rama on the day of Ram Navami is believed to be the end of the evil era.
Navratri is an auspicious occasion for Vaishnavas (a sect of Hindu who consider Vishnu as their God) who celebrate it with due solemnity. There is a popular belief that Lord Rama full fills one's dream if he/she prays him on this day of Ram Navami.
In Jammu Navratras are celebrated with enthusiam and gaiety. People visit different temples. Especially a huge rush is witnessed in Raghunath Mandir. But the Chief attraction of the Navratras is the Darshan of Goddess Bhawani (Mahakali) at Bahu Fort. Tens of thousands of people visit the shrine since very early morning. The whole city of temples wears a festive look.
Lakhs of people visit Mata Vaishnodevi during Navratras. To have the Darshan of the Holy Mother in the form of natural pindies is considered highly auspicious. Katra wears a festive lok during Navratras. People from far and wide visit the cave shrine. Ist Navratras is celebrated as Navreh by Pandits of Kashmir. On this day a new almanc for the year is released people have the darshan in the morning of a basket full of nil, on which flowers, walnuts curd, milk, pen, cooked nil and a herb celled ‘Wai’ (sweet flag) is put. A mela is held at Chakrareshwar temple at Hari Parvat in Srinagar on this day.
People start farting on Ist Navratras upto Ram Navami. Pujas are regularily held in homes and temples on Rama Navmi People visit Ram temples. Sri Ragu Nath temple is the main attraction of Ram Navami. of natural pandits is considered highly auspicious. Katra wear a festive look during Navratras. People from far and wide visit the cave shrine.
It is hoped that these Navratras will bring overall well being and prosperity to the country in general and the State in particular. Navratras are the herbinger of new light and festivities. Let Navratras bestow upon the people of the State all round prosperity.

Fort of the Goddess Kali

A.K. Khanna

Jammu region is a land of shrines and pilgrimages, the most renowned is the Mata Vaishno Devi shrine, located 48 km away on the Trikuta hills. There are numerous places belong to different faiths. The people of the region are deeply devoted to their land and especially their places of worship. There is hardly any ancient village or town, which does not have shrine of its own. All temples and shrines have woven in a variegated tapestry of myth and legend. The Bahu Fort lies on hillock opposite the old city across the Tawi River.
The fort is located on the second terrace with most revered temple of Bahu or more popularly known as Bawey Wali Mata inside it. On the foothill, a terraced Mughal garden with musical fountains, waterfall, flowerbeds, benches etc have created as Baghe - e - Bahu. The beautiful landscape attract tourist and is the city's most popular picnic spot, a refuge for the young couples. The whole terrace has an enchanting view; after sunset with the lighting of mercury lamps in the garden and flood lighted Bahu Fort in the background provide a beautiful night view from a distance. The terraced garden water channels, flood light and waterfalls are worth enjoying after the Sunset it becomes dark. Just on back at the same level is a small fish aquarium conceptualized in the shape of a large fish with open mouth as its entrance and tail as its exit. Inside, the belly there are many large and small aquarium glass showcases exhibiting verity of tiny and medium size fishes in colourful ambience. The showcases in the form of a small museum has glass jars with various sea creatures preserved in formalin .The exhibits have labels and information provided in English language only is really an added disadvantage. Besides there is no hand out available for the general public about the names of the Fishes and other displayed exhibits. The museums now -a- days are considered as a source of living knowledge rather than a dumb showcases in past . The Dept of Floriculture must put Hindi /Urdu labels and their translation in vernacular language. The information under three-language formula can do only justice with the huge public money spent on the construction of beautiful aquarium. Coloured lights and murmuring of the water falling from the cascades of Baghe - e - Bahu terraced garden reminds one the Mughal Gardens of Shalimar and Nisht in Kashmir valley and Pinjore Garden near Chandigarh.
According to the legend, King Bahu Lochan credited with the foundation of the first Bahu Fort and shrine. The original temple destroyed around 1398. It remain in the state of ruins until Raja Gulab Singh rebuilt the temple in 1822 after his coronation as the Dogra ruler of the region. The Bahu fort built of Mughal Laukhuri bricks in lime mortar and irregular on plan with a high broad pathway utilized inside along the wall for the safety of the fort. The main entrance gate has an L shaped Gateway leading to a large courtyard. on the both side of the entrance are, provided with brick ramps and staircases along the fortification wall, the facility on the pathway for horses and man respectively to climb and keep watch on the security and safety of the fort. Below the pathway further inside the wall are series of the arched room for the soldiers to stay etc. There is baoli enclosed by a high wall on the left side of the entrance now in a bad state of its maintance. There are many subsidiary structures subsequently added for the use of the temple and security guards quarters, which are now in use by the police. The high fortification wall and bastions at regular intervals from outside and a broad elevated path constructed in the interior all around the pathway served the purpose of security and safety of the fort. Two to three horses can run along the wall with ramps and stairs constructed on the left and right side of the entrance for the purpose. It jog your memory the influences of the Mughal forts of Agra , Lahore and Delhi built by the various Mughal emperors .

The shrine of Maha Kali considered as second only to that of Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Ji in terms of spiritual power and protector of Jammu city, is the temple at Bahu or Bawey Wali Mata. The principal day is Tuesday, the weekly day for worship of the temple. The temple has two fairs every year during the spring and autumn navaratras. Large number of people pays their obscene to the kali temple every day, as it is one of the major tourist attractions in the city.
The black stone icon of black schist in the sanctum of the temple believed to bring from Ayodhya (Uttar Pradesh) in Central India. In past, as several temples in the Jammu hills the animal were generally sheep and goats scarified. The same practice is still in vogue in the Kamakahya Temple of Ghuwhati (Assam) in Northeastern India. The animal sacrifice, an ancient practice of the temple has stopped at instance of Maharaja Partap Singh (1885 -1925) in the early twentieth century. There a sacrificial enclosure still exists in which even today the goats kept to perform the ceremonial or Symbolic ceremony of animal sacrifice. In course of symbolic sacrifice ceremony, the animal remains alive and only by sprinkling of the water and chanting few mantras the ceremony considered as complete. The priest gets his fee as usual for performing the same. The practice of human and animal sacrifice in ancient India remind us to the switching over to the breaking of coconut is the temples of South India instead of human and animal sacrifices in one way or the other in 18th century onwards .
Bahu fair or mela held twice a year during Navaratras of Chaitya basakha (March-April) and nine days of spring Navaratras are the biggest and the most colourful crowd gather at the temple.
The temple is square on plan located on a high platform with black and white marble stone flooring on all sides. The approach to the temple is from three by a flight of steps. The Sanctum Santorum is small in size and half horse vault roof design in the back wall, which served as the shrine chamber. The grabhagriha of the temple has a black shining schist stone icon of Goddess installed in with prominent eyes as the presiding deity. The figure is six-armed Mata adorned with finely tailored dress. The beautiful idol of Mata has been the proctor and guardian of the Jammu city. There is belief that the Goddess has protected the City from any air raids during 1971 and 1975 Indo - Pak wars.

(The author is Dy. Superintending Archaeologist Archaeological Survey of India)

Banihal The gate way to Kashmir

Dr P K Kaul

Banihal had remained gate way to the valley of Kashmir. Located at the foot of Pir Pantsal ranges, it finds
mention in many ancient and medevial writings.
Rajtrangini (C-1000-1011 AD) mentions this place, a very harrow mountain valley, as Visalta. This region in King Uccalas of Kashmiris time was an escape route from Kashmir for unwanted or disgruntled elements of the Valley. In Jaysimha or Kashmir’s time (1128-49) a small fort is stated to have existed just below the old Banihal Pass, called by the name of Bansalla literally meaning, a jungle or grove of trees. This castle belonged to Khasa Lord Bhagika Ruler of the old principality of Vishalta, the present Banihal region. He was the son in Law of Tikka, the Lord of Buddhal. Abu Fazal has derived the appeletion of Banihal from Bansala. He also makes a mention of a temple at Banihal, dedicated to the Goddess Durga, where in enquiries, pertaining to coming strife, if any, are made in a curious fashion (probably in an oracle way of ancient Greeks or as practised in Naga shrines of Jammu in the recent past). This is also indicative that Abu-Fazal, King Akbars’ official historian may have passed through this route on his way to or back from Valley of Kashmir.
Pandit Sahib Ram, who in his book ‘‘Tirthas’’ copies Abu-Fazal’s notes, metamorphosis the Sanskrit name of village Banihal from Bhanusita or Bhanusata i.e rocks of the Sun or land of the Sun.
Stein on his commentary on Kalhans’ Rajtrangini describes the place differently. According to him, Visalata or Banihal must be identified with the valley drained by rivulet Bichlari, flowing through the area, a tributary of river Chenab. This hill district situated immediately to the South of Divsar and Shahabad Parganas of Kashmir (District Anantnag) is generally called Banihal after the mountain pass of that name, to which it forms the approach the name Vishalata is probably preserved in that of the river Bichalari. But to me it appears that the word Banhal is derived from Bansala, because of the phonetic change of /s/ to /h/ phone, so common a linguistic phenomenon in Local languages and dialects. Banihal lies only few hundred meters north of Adlkut and the Rajtranginis castle of Bansala must have been visible from the top of Banihal Pass clearly.
Because of its geographical position, difficult accessibility of the region, and harder mountaneous life style, Banihal like Kishtwar always proved to be a safe escape route, and safe refuge to the revolting Princes, disgruntled chieftans, and conspirator from Kashmir, against the Kings of Kashmir. Rajtrangini has made a mention of many such nobles, Khasas and Damaras. It was not only the Banihal region, but the entire mountaneous region on the right bank of river Chenab in Jammu, right from Kashtwar to Reasi districts that proved to be a very safe refuge for those who deserted for one or the other reason. Banihal Pass also having the lowest height (9200’) above see level formed the easier outlet from the valley for the pedestrians in the Pantsal range. Rebel Chieftain from Kashmir, like Dhanchakka (1001-1011 AD) Bhiksachara and Sujji (1128-49 AD) and many others also stayed at Banihal and planned an invasion of the valley.
Today Banihal is the only motorable access to the Kashmir through which national highway No.1, runs, though other connecting roads are in the making.
The mountain regions, highland pockets and mini valleys that are part of Banihal consist of the following areas :-
(a) Pugal : is the mountaneous region drained by Pugal stream, a tribulary of Bichlari that comes from the eastern mounains of Banihal. The area is rugged and mountaneous. The people are hardy. Pugali is the dialect spoken by some 12000 inhabitants. Cattle rearing is main occupation of the people and Maize cultivated on sloppy land is the main stable crop. It is curious and interesting to note that another place in Bikaner in Rajasthan is also known by the same place name and have the same profession of sheep and goat rearing. Milk and Ghee is the Cheif produce of the region for export.
(b) Peeristan or Paristan : The area beyond Pogal is called Paristan or Peeristan, which literally means the abode of Fairies or Saintly person of high miraculous powers. The area is rugged and mountainous and very scarcely population. It also includes Neel mountaneous region.
(c) Mahu - Mangat : In Banihal is another mountainous region towards western Banihal, drained by the rivulet of the same name, another tribulary of Bichlariz. The area is rugged but full of long grassy slopes, that attracted people rearing goat, sheep and cattle in the region, who inhabit it. Maize is the stable food cultivated on sloppy lands. Milk and Ghee is the main produce. The valley of Kashmir lies on the immediate Northern side of it.
(d) Ramban : The old name of the place was Kamban meaning the place of Kam trees, but when Maharaja Gulab Singh passed through the place around 1819-20, he named it as Ramban. (1) Located at 75.420, Longitude and 33.170 Latitude the place was not of much historical importance, except that it was situated on the traditional mountain route between Jammu and the valley, with most suitable point of crossing of the mighty Chenab river, and with a lowest height of pass on the Pantsal range. Today it is the head quarter of a newly constituted District of the same name, and the site of a 630 Megawatt hydroelectric Project of Baglihar, and an important station on the national highway No.1.
(e) Batote : Some 120 kilometers from Jammu, Batote, a fine hill state, with pine and Deodar forest lies on the above mentioned National highway just below the famous tourist station of Patnitop. In the middle of last century, it was only a small village, but with the construction of Banihal cart road (B C road) in nineteen forties, now a National highway, it has developed into an important hill station of Jammu. Another important hill station around it is the mountain resort of Sanasar..

Heaven for pilgrim tourism

Rakesh K Padha

A district which is strategically located is just like a buffer between Jammu Plains and Pir Panchal Hills. Udhampur Commands a panaromic view of the Shivaliks. The all improtant National Highway winds up as if it were a necklace round the neck of the district. Apart from the scenic beauty that Udhampur is endowed with it has some of the most sacred spots which too have a vast tourist potential. There are many archeological and historical spots in Udhampur which also have a tourist potential of their own. It will be very apt to draw the attention the readers towards the vast potential of pilgrim tourism in Udhampur.
"Devika Temple : This holy river in district udhampur originates from the foothill of Gangera, situated in the vicinity of the udhampur district, this big temple situated in the west bank, along the Jammu -srinagar national highway, of the udhampur district. In this with the main shikhar, there are also tombs of other god & goddesses, main entrance towards north side. This temple is reconstructed by Maharaja Ranbir singh during 1863 (as per available resources, Courtesy: Duggar ke mandir- By Shiv Nirmohi Ji ),by the order of her mother Rani Rakkwali,where as Rani's parental house was Chak Rakwalla in Udhampur district. As this temple is situated near the bank of holy river Devika also having temple of Aap shambhu, believe to be very old.
Pilgrims /Tourists through out the country visit over here in order to take dip of the elder sister of holy Ganga, the one & only Devika,for which Udhampur district is known for. Three day Mela held every year on the eve of Baisakhi where thousands of people visit during these days. There is dire need of Yatri Niwas over the bank of holy river Devika where people throughout the country visit to take dip of holy water, may stay there. It is also important to write down here that a place where more than 8 crores have been spent over the last fiscal year, does not have a single yatri niwas.It is here by suggested that a two story well furnished building of old age home already constructed could be converted into yatri niwas & the inhabitants could be shifted to Jagriti oldage home udhampur.
"Sudhmahadev temple: just 112 kms away from Jammu & about 60 kms away from udhampur district towards Chenani tehsil .With immense natural mountainous beauty, this spot has instinct to feel like touch of heaven. As this temple has Shiva lingam looks to be very old it seems that it has been made during 17th century. It believes that it is the place where God Shiva appears, so it is called as Shudh (A place where all sins has been destroyed), by taking a dip of the paap nashini Bowli.It has been written in temples abhilekha - that this is bestowed to the Shivajis jaleri by her of the temple (dibhan nath? who got it made for Rs.130 by Dekh ram (?) & was inaugurated on 1st of magh 1825 corresponding to 22-1-1769. Mantalai, famous for its beauty & sthan of Guru Dhirendhara brahamchari an independent Shrine board on the pattern of shiv khori shrine board must be constituted wherein Sudhmahadev & Mantalai may undercome.
"Dalsar -Batota Shiv Mandir - Ramnagar: This different & historical temple of God Shiva situated 5 kms west of Ramnagar tehsil of Udhampur district, namely Dalsar religious place. According to the available resources, it has been reconstructed by Raja Ram Singh in 1892, then it was just a temple of simple shilas.this temple has amazing Shiva lingam which changes its colour, in the - Morning, afternoon & evening. This linga is Trimukhi, having clear picture of Shiva & is very much attractive. Dalsar area is also known for its religious values, also having a big Sarovar which was spreaded in over 32 kanals of land, now it is squeezed. Around this Sarovar so many archaelogical scripts are also present around the sarovar. This place is also very important from the archaelogical point of view. Now this temple is known as Parkash Temple wherein large number of devotees throughout the country visit, may also come under shrine board. Not only attracts devotees /tourists but also increase the Shrine board revenue.
"Sankari Devta Mandir At Pancheri: This temple is situated about 30 kms away from udhampur district towards Udhampur to Pancheri -lander road, famous for its worship, this temple shows one of the face of God Shiva where large no. of devotees through out the country visit here every year, may find their desires to be fulfilled. So many stories are associated with this temple. A Dangal also organized every year during the three days mela, where in every deptt. Play its own role.
"Pancheri famous for its scenic beauty must be developed so that large number of tourists may visit overhere resultantly improvement in the socio economic condition of the inhabitants may be seen.
"Krimachi Mansar Pandav Mandir Temple : Just 7 km away from Udhampur, over pancheri - lander road, near the bank of Buteshvari stream ,32degree N from equator & 75 degree east from central line, having seven group of templesbased on Nagar Shelli,made up of old Pashan & Shilas,place is also known as Bhuti Rajya in Dogra history; believe to be reconstructed in 9th or 10th century. Some historian believe that Krimachi was the capital of Mahabharata era Raja Krichak Who constructed these temples
This temple is divided into three parts-------- 1st part has 5 groups of temples. 2nd &3rd part has -------- 1 temple each.
"Baboor Group of temples : This group of temples situated towards the south end of udhampur near by 1 km of River Tawi ,& 8 km towards north of Mansar lake.120 kms far away from Jammu. Historian's belief is that this devastated Nagar was the capital of Duggar state during mid era. Old name of Baboor was Babapoor,ruled over by Dhar Vansh &the first king was Surajdhar .In Raj taringini ,there were inscriptions of Kirtidhar &Vajradhar with the king of Kashmir Raja Kalash(1087-88) &Sussal (1112-1120)
Devi Bhagawati mandir,Dhera Mandir,,Kala Dehra- 1, Kala Dehra - 2, Nand Baboor temple .. The temples not only famous for their architecture design but also put light over Dogra Sculpture art. In this, Vishnu, Shiva, Shiva in Nartya Mudra, Bhairav, Bhrish vahan Shiva, Ganesh & Sun. These temples spreaded over three sq. km. area. It is believed that in (1398-99) Tamoor's sena rocked the Manu Nagar, none other than Babapoor that is why other name of Babapoor is Manuwal. Also believe that this capital was safe from the attack of Mahmood Gajnabi & Arabs.
"In order to promote tourism/trade in district udhampur, A Base camp must be formed because there is dire need of opening of Tourist Reception Centre/Yatri Niwas, as it is the central place where both Dhar road & NH1A meets. So tourist coming from both these roads may get specialty over here like yatri niwas, Ticket Collection Centre for Amarnath Shrine; may not only increase the Socio -economic status of the inhabitants but also increase the opportunity of employment to thousands of unemployed.
As our Hon'ble Chief Minister Sh. Gulam Nabi Azad Sahib Ji who is very much committed & keen to do justice to every corner of the state by equitable development approach. It is here by requested to the Hon'ble Chief minister to look into this matter personally so that equitable justice may be meet up.

Palace of LeH

A K Khanna

Leh Town is the district headquarter, and the largest town of Ladakh region of the State. It situated about 6 km from the right bank of river Indus. The town lies about 3505 m above the mean sea level.
Leh Palace is a legacy of Ladakhi`s wars with Kashmir rulers in the 19th century. A miniature version of Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet and the highest building in the World of his own times The Chicogo ( USA ) built multi storeyed buildings in 1871, however , the Senge Namgyal`s nine storey 17th century AD Leh Palace and the Potala Palace of Tibet are the oldest extant nine storeyed building in the world . The Leh Palace inspired, the more refined Patola palace in Lhasa, which was constructed half a century later. The Palace is situated on the middle of hillock on a rugged Rock surrounded by building as the land mark of the town of Leh, just 6 km from right bank of the Indus.The distance between Srinagar to Leh is 434 Km and it takes two days with an overnight stop at Kargil. Sonamarg is the last major town in the valley of Kashmir. After that climb began for Zojila (3529 m) and enter Ladakh region.
Ladakh is the land of strange Gonpas, perched on high barren hilltops, ancient palaces attached to sheer rock walls and shattered looking landscapes splashed with tiny brilliant patches of green popular trees or Leh berry bunches. The harsh climate made the Ladakhis as delightful as the Tibetan people
Most of the people follow Tibetan tantric Buddhism with much emphasis on magic and demons while traveling from Srinagar to Leh, at Kargil on the way to the Leh road. The Islamic influence dies out and all around beyond are Gonpas, the Buddhist monasteries etc. the Buddhist monks are happy to have visitors wander around the Gonpas and monasteries, to witness the ceremonies try the butter tea and Lake photographs.
Originally the capital town Leh was founded in the circa A.D.14th century by one Khri - gstug - lde. It pronounced as Sle or Gle in the beginning with the passage of time it