Summer Make-up

Shahnaz Husain

The current make up trends continue to move towards the natural look. The dewy look is in for the younger lot. Light tinted moisturizers are finding favour, rather than foundation, both for day and night. The aim is to project a sheer skin texture. Go for translucent foundations and a matte finish. Leave out the shine. Just a hint of blusher, like a natural flush, is in vogue. Choose neutral tones of powder blusher. Eye make-up trends favour less mascara. The eye lined look is predicted for this year. Frosted sheen, or shimmer stay popular for the lips. Lip liners match the lipstick - there is no obvious line around lips. Pinks are in, especially very light pinks. Red and shades of red have made a comeback and will stay in vogue in lipsticks. Shades of red, like cherry, rose, and red, itself, are predicted for the night.
Actually, make-up poses a real problem during summer. It never seems to last and should be kept to a bare minimum, especially during the day. The golden rule for summer make-up is "soft, delicate and very sparing". This is where daily skin care pays rich dividends. If the skin is clear, without any blemishes, one does not need foundation. Heavy foundations become "caked" and streaky with perspiration, showing up natural creases, lines and wrinkles.
If you must use foundation for the day or night, choose a water-based one and blend well. You can even add a drop or two of water, before applying it. This provides a lighter coverage. You can go for pansticks, to which you add water and use. They are also called cake foundations and can be more suitable during summer, specially for oily skin. If you can get hold of powder foundation, nothing like it. If you have an oily skin, before applying powder or foundation, wipe the face with an astringent lotion or skin tonic. Wrap an ice cube in a clean cloth and wipe the face with it, just for a few seconds. This helps to close the pores.
If you leave out foundation, go for a colourless baby powder, which has a light texture and a transparent sheen. Or, you can also use compact powder, instead of foundation. Then use a powder blusher and carry your powder compact for "touching up." In fact, compact powder helps to reduce the oily look and provides a smooth texture. Carry wet tissues, or "wet wipes," to refresh the skin during summer. Wipe with the tissue and then touch up with compact powder.
After using lipstick, add a touch of lip gloss, which actually gives a "cool" look. Or, you can use frosty lipsticks, i.e. lipsticks with shimmer. You can even add a touch of lip gloss on the centre of the upper eyelids. These are some of the tricks to look cool. For colours in lipstick, choose from light pink and mauve, which are "icy" colours and look cool. It may be a good idea to stick to lipgloss during the day. For the night, you should use brighter colours, as artificial light tends to drain colour. You can go for plum, wine, burgundy, coral, bronze or shades of red. A touch of platinum can be added to the colour.
Eye make-up during the day should also be light. Just go for eye pencil and mascara to brighten the eyes. Or, you can line your eyes with brown eye shadow or brown eyeliner or brown eye pencil. Gray liner or pencil also looks appropriate for day make-up during summer. Then apply mascara.
This helps to darken the eyes, without the heavily made up look. For the night, eye make-up can be heavier, lining the lids with eyeliner or pencil. If you use eye liner, smudge the line with a sponge applicator. This gives a smoky effect and is better than a harsh black line. You can try the felt-tipped eye liners which are available nowadays. They ensure smooth application and are easier to use than liquid eyeliner.
At night, use a frosted highlight (white or very light colour) on the brow bone and shine on the eyelids.

Quick-fixes for Party Night

Shahnaz Husain

Keep a bowl of rose water in the fridge, with cotton wool pads soaking in them.
A "pick-me-up" face mask can leave your skin clean and glowing. Cleanse the skin. Mix honey with egg white and apply it on the face. Wash off with water after 20 minutes.
For dry skin: Mix half teaspoon honey, one teaspoon rose water and one teaspoon dried milk powder. Mix into a paste and apply on the face. Remove after 20 minutes with water.
Or, apply mayonnaise on the skin to relieve dryness and make the skin soft and glowing.
After applying the face mask, take two of the cotton wool pads soaked in rose water and use them as eye pads. Squeeze out the rose water and then apply on closed lids. Lie down and relax, while you have the mask and eye pads on. Rose water has a calming effect and helps to remove fatigue and brighten the eyes.
For puffy eyes, used tea bags will do the trick. Soak them in a little warm water, squeeze out the water and apply on the eyes like eye pads.
After washing off the pack, give a cold compress on the face with the rose water soaked cotton wool pads.
What do you do if a pimple suddenly makes its appearance?
Apply foundation over it. Wait for it to dry and then apply foundation on the entire face. Touch up the pimple again with foundation. Then apply powder to "set" the foundation.
To conceal pits left by acne scars, take a foundation that is two shades lighter than the one you use on your entire face. Apply the light foundation into the pits, using a fine brush. A concealer can also be used. Then, apply your normal foundation on the rest of the face.
Quick Conditioning Treatment for dull hair: Mix one teaspoon each of vinegar and honey with one egg. Beat well together. Massage the mixture into the scalp. Wrap the hair in a hot towel or plastic shower cap for twenty minutes. Then shampoo the hair. Your hair will have more body and look shiny and manageable.
Too much static - or "fly away" hair: All you need to do is to wet your hands with water and smooth your palms over the hair. And, avoid too much brushing.

Face Packs

Shahnaz Husain

I am often asked about the difference between face masks and face packs. Actually, the meaning and functions of cosmetic face masks and face packs overlap. They more or less imply the same and are used almost synonymously. However, essentially a face pack is a corrective or restorative treatment for the face, which performs other functions too, like cleansing, toning, etc. A face pack can comprise of fruit or vegetable pulp, pastes of herbs or leaves, clays and powders, or even a treatment cream. A face mask is a preparation, which is applied on the face and allowed to dry, so that it has a tightening effect, stimulates blood circulation to the skin surface and also performs other functions like cleansing, toning and refreshing the skin. Depending on the ingredients of the pack or mask, the treatment can be therapeutic, i.e. it may be geared to reduce inflammation, close pores, or soothe the skin, or moisturize it intensely, etc.
Face packs or masks play a vital role because they perform so many functions. They may complete the cleansing process, dissolving impurities, softening dead skin cells and facilitating their removal. The removal of dead cells actually boosts up the renewal of new skin cells. This helps to delay ageing and restores the skin's youthful qualities. They help to refine the skin, making it clear and translucent. Packs and masks also stimulate blood circulation to the skin, while others may improve lymphatic drainage. Our 24 Carat Gold face pack, for example, helps lymphatic drainage and removal of toxins, thus purifying the skin. Specific problems may be treated with face packs. For example, we have formulated a clove pack, which helps to soothe sensitive and rashy skin. Fruit and vegetable packs help to nourish the skin, since they contain vitamins and minerals. Some packs, like a papaya pack, helps to remove dead skin cells since papaya contains enzymes.
There are many different types of face packs and masks. There are "peel-off" packs, which are usually suited to all skin types, but should not be used on skin with acne or rash. As the mask sets, it forms a fine and even layer, which is peeled off. They are mainly for brightening and refreshing the skin. They can be used as a "pre-party" pack or quick "pick-me-up" treatment. They have a gel like consistency and dry quite fast.
A pack can also be nourishing and moisturizing. They should help the skin's ability to retain moisture and also moisturize the skin. Ingredients like orange, almond, honey, carrot, egg yolk, aloe vera gel or juice, etc., can be used as nourishing and moisturizing masks.
Medicated packs for sensitive and problem skins are available. We have used sandalwood, clove, eucalyptus, neem, tulsi and many such ingredients to formulate medicated packs for problem skin. Neem, mint or tulsi can be used in packs, for pimple-prone skin. At home mint or tulsi leaves can be dried and powdered and added to face packs. Multani mitti can be mixed with rosewater, sandalwood paste and dry mint or tulsi leaf powder into a paste and applied on the face. It clarifies the skin and also adds a glow.
Many other ingredients can be added to face masks, like dried and powdered orange and lemon peels, almond meal (ground almonds), oatmeal, wheat bran (choker), gram flour and so on. Some of these ingredients, like oats, almonds, wheat bran, fuller's earth (multani mitti) form excellent bases for face packs. Other ingredients can be added to these bases according to their functions. For example, curd and honey would nourish and soften the skin, egg white has a cleansing effect, while egg yolk nourishes. Rose water and orange juice can also be added. They would have a toning effect.
Face packs can also be applied according to specific needs or skin types. For example cucumber has an astringent effect and helps oily skin. It also helps to close the pores. Honey can be mixed with egg white and applied on most skin types. Honey moisturizes the skin without making it oily, while egg white cleanses the skin and closes the pores. For oily skin, multani mitti can be mixed with rose water and applied as a face pack, since it reduces surface oil and makes the skin clearer.
One can start using face packs during the adolescent years, when pimples and acne begin to make an appearance. For example, we have formulated a clove pack for pimple-prone, oily skin. As a rule, face packs and masks may be used regularly after the age of 25. A face pack is applied after a facial massage or facial treatment. Therefore, regular facials (with or without massage, depending on the skin type) should be taken two or three times a month after the age of 25 and once a week after the age of 30.
While applying face packs, we should pay attention to certain aspects. The area around the eyes should be excluded while applying a face pack, unless the preparation is specially meant for the area around eyes. For instance, we have formulated a seaweed mask especially for the skin around the eyes, since the skin in this area is very delicate. It is much thinner than the skin on other parts of the face and does not contain oil glands. The lips should also be excluded while applying face packs and masks. The nostrils should be kept free of the preparation. All masks are also not meant for skin with acne or rashy skin. For example, a grainy mask should not be applied if there is acne, unless it is specially indicated.
Here are some face packs that can be prepared at home:
For dry skin, mix half a teaspoon honey with the yolk of an egg and one teaspoon dried milk powder. Mix into a paste and apply on the face. Remove after 20 minutes with water.
If the skin is on the oily side, mix half teaspoon honey with the white of an egg and one teaspoon curd. Add fuller's earth (multani mitti). Mix into a paste and apply. Remove after 20 minutes with water.
Make a pulp of ripe papaya and apply on the face. Papaya has a cleansing action, by softening the dead cells and aiding their removal. If yogurt is added, the mixture can help to remove tan.
Grate carrots and apply on the face for 15 to 20 minutes. Wash off with plain water. Carrot is rich in Vitamin A and good for winter skin problems.
Mix honey with one teaspoon orange juice and apply on the face, to make it soft and smooth. Wash off after 20 minutes. Honey suits all skin types. For oily and acne-prone skin, mix one teaspoon honey with one teaspoon curd and a little turmeric.
Mix 3 teaspoons wheat bran (choker) with one teaspoon each of ground almonds, honey, curd and egg yolk. Wash off after 20 minutes.

Preventing Hair loss

Shahnaz Husain

I am often asked how often the hair should be washed and if too much hair washing can lead to hair loss. It is not washing of the hair, but the product one uses, that can have a detrimental effect. The hair should be washed according to hair type and season. In hot and humid weather, the hair should be washed more often, in order to remove sweat and oil deposits, along with dirt. If the hair is oily, it should be washed three or four times a week. For dry hair, wash twice a week. In modern times, cleansing of the hair has assumed more importance, in order to remove dirt and chemical air pollutants.
Use less shampoo and rinse well with water. For short hair, take half teaspoon shampoo and for long hair, take one teaspoon shampoo. Dilute it with a little water and then apply. Only one application of shampoo is enough, unless one has applied too much oil. That is why it is so important to choose the right products. Harsh hair products disturb the normal acid-alkaline balance and also stimulate the scalp further, leading to a build-up of dead cells on the scalp, aggravating problems like dandruff. If the work entails traveling long distances, the hair should be washed frequently, using very little shampoo. If there is excessive oiliness, a hair rinse should also be used.
What are the products which help hair care? First of all, one needs a shampoo or hair cleanser, along with conditioner or hair rinse. If the hair is oily a hair rinse is better. For dry hair, a creamy conditioner may be used. Leave-on conditioners are also available. Apart from these, you would need hair oil, herbal hair tonic and hair pack. One should select products containing herbs like amla, shikakai, reetha, brahmi, bhringaraj, arnica, trifala, hibiscus (gurhal or javakusuma), bael, neem, sandalwood, etc.
If there is hair loss, warm oil may be applied, but avoid vigorous massage. In hair loss, the roots may be weak and vigorous massage or rubbing can cause more hair to fall out. Using only the finger tips, actually move the scalp in small circular movements for one or two minutes. As nutritional deficiency is one of the most common causes of hair loss, the diet is very important. Clinical treatments are also available. These help to stimulate the hair follicles. Hair grows from follicles, which are beneath the skin of the scalp. They also help to improve blood circulation to the scalp. This helps healthy hair growth, since the hair is actually fed by the nutrients in the blood stream. During clinical treatments, hair tonics are also applied and steamers are used for greater absorption.
I would recommend taking a small bowl of sprouts daily. Sprouts contain amino acids, which are very beneficial to the hair. Include fresh fruits, raw salads, leafy green vegetables, whole grains and curd in the daily diet. Soyabean also helps. If the scalp is oily, or if there is dandruff, drink plenty of water. Add the juice of a lemon to a glass of water and have it first thing in the morning. Ask your doctor to prescribe vitamin and mineral supplements. Try to reduce stress. Learn yoga and practice it daily, including deep breathing exercises. Learn relaxation techniques.
Hair loss, progressing to balding, is more common among men than women. However, in cases of balding, apart from wearing a wig, there are other options, like hair weaving, hair extensions and hair transplant. Hair weaving is done if the person is partially bald. The hair is actually woven to the roots of the existing hair. The hair is sometimes glued on. Then it is said to grow naturally. Partial hair extensions are becoming more popular in the hair weaving method. However, washing the hair and keeping the scalp clean poses a problem and one has to go periodically to get the weave tightened when the hair grows out. Hair transplant is a surgical procedure, in which a portion of the scalp which contains hair is taken, along with the hair follicles and grafted in the bald areas. The hair then begins to grow in the bald areas. Nowadays the procedure has become very advanced and is said to be better than hair weaving. It may be done in one session, or may take several sessions. Precautions are taken before and after the procedure, since it is surgical. The costs of hair weaving and transplant can be from Rs.30,000 and above.

Winter Preparation

Shahnaz Husain

Winter is in the air. The taut feeling in the skin is an indication that winter is upon us and cold, wintry days lie ahead. The humidity in the air has become less. The secret of a good skin lies in the right kind of care. Seasonal changes influence the skin, since the skin is an external organ. So, lack of humidity also affects the skin. The skin loses moisture to the atmosphere. As seasonal changes take place, it becomes necessary to adjust the daily skin-care routine.
Teenagers complain that the skin feels dry after washing, but becomes oily, or gets eruptions, if creams and moisturizers are applied. They wonder what to apply to relieve dryness and yet, not get pimples. Teenage is the time when the oil glands are more active, leading to spots, blackheads, pimples and acne. But an oily skin can also be short of moisture during the dry winter season, when there is superficial dryness of the outermost layer of the skin. People with acne also experience this superficial dryness. You can identify it by the taut, uncomfortable feeling immediately after washing. Some areas of the skin may also acquire tiny white flakes. Although oily skins do not need moisturisation during humid weather, in winter it may become necessary to moisturize the skin.
Use a light cleansing milk or lotion. Apply it on the face and wipe it off with moist cotton wool. A light moisturizing lotion can be applied if there is dryness. Add a drop or two of water before application, to give a lighter coverage. Or, use an oil-free day cream. Honey applied on the face daily for ten minutes and then washed off with water, would also help to relieve superficial dryness. Yogurt can also be applied to soften the skin. Wash it off with plenty of water after 15 minutes.
If the skin is a normal to dry type, it should be cleansed twice a day, with a cleansing cream or gel. A cleansing gel containing aloe vera would be good, as it helps the skin retain moisture and also moisturizes the skin. Apply the cleanser and wipe it off with moist cotton wool. At night, cleansing is even more important, in order to remove make-up and other pollutants. Make-up cosmetics also cause dryness. Massage the cleanser lightly into the skin and remove it with moist cotton wool. Using moist cotton wool helps to prevent further dryness, as it does not absorb any more moisture from the skin. After cleansing in the morning, tone the skin, using a rose-based skin tonic or even rose water. Using cotton wool, wipe the skin and then pat it briskly. Toning removes the last stages of the cleanser and also stimulates circulation.
During the day, use a sunscreen, before going out in the sun. Sun exposure can also cause loss of moisture. Most sunscreens have built-in moisturizers. Moisturisers are available in cream and liquid form. For extreme dryness, it is better to use a cream. A liquid moisturiser should be used under make-up. Apply it before using foundation. Whenever the skin feels dry, apply a liquid moisturiser.
The skin on the lips is also very thin and lacks sebaceous (oil producing) glands. That is why it can become dry and chapped easily. The skin may also start peeling. It is extremely important to remove lipstick from the lips every night, using a cleansing gel. Some lipsticks actually have a drying effect on the skin. After cleansing, apply a cream containing almond on the lips and leave it on all night. This would help to soften the skin. In fact, lip balms are also very helpful in healing the skin on the lips, preventing chapped lips and keeping them soft and smooth. As a home remedy, one can apply almond oil, or cream of milk. Daily care is very important.
Facial masks should also be part of the skin-care routine. Nowadays ready to use masks are available. Choose one according to the skin's requirements. You can also mix a mask at home with oatmeal and one teaspoon each of honey, egg white and yogurt. Mix together into a paste and apply on the skin. Wash it off after half an hour. Facial masks help to remove dead cells. The skin's moisture-retention ability improves and it can also absorb skin-care products better.
Here are some home remedies:
For oily skin or pimple prone skin, take 100 ml rose water and mix one teaspoon pure glycerin. Mix it well and keep in a bottle in the fridge. Apply a little of this lotion on the face to relieve dryness. Unlike moisturizing creams, it will not lead to pimples or acne.
Honey suits both oily and combination skin. It is a powerful humectant (i.e. it attracts moisture to the skin). For oily skin, mix honey with egg white or lemon juice and apply on the skin daily, washing it off after 15 minutes with plain water. Both lemon juice and egg white have cleansing effects, reducing oiliness, while honey softens and nourishes the skin. If you have a combination skin, apply honey by itself on the entire face, as it would suit both oily and dry areas. For dry skin, add egg yolk or a little almond oil to honey and apply on the face. Wash it off after 15 minutes.
Take one peeled and cored apple and puree it in a blender. Add one tablespoon honey. Apply this on the face like a mask and keep it on for 15 minutes. Then, rinse off with cool water. This is a powerful skin toner for all skin types.
Nothing like a fruit mask to get ready for winter! It suits all skin types. Fruits like banana, apple, papaya and orange can be mixed together and applied on the face. They should be made into a pulp. Keep it on for 20 to 30 minutes. Papaya is rich in enzymes and helps to cleanse dead skin cells. Banana tightens the skin. Apple contains pectin and helps to cleanse the skin. Orange is rich in Vitamin C. It restores the normal acid-alkaline balance.
Mix half a teaspoon honey, one teaspoon rose water and one teaspoon dried milk powder. Mix into a paste and apply on the face. Remove after 20 minutes with water.

Winter Hair Care

Shahnaz Husain

During winter, when the weather is cold and dry, the hair really suffers. This is more so if the hair is already dry and damaged.
Damaged hair is usually dry and fragile. It is weak and brittle and tends to break off easily. The hair is like a delicate fabric and should be treated that way. The most common causes of hair damage are hair styling techniques that employ chemical lotions, or direct application of heat, like colouring, dyeing, bleaching, straightening and waving. These procedures alter the structure of the hair and weaken it. The outermost layer, the cuticle, plays an important protective role and also contributes to the shine of the hair. In damaged hair, the cuticle is stripped off in an uneven manner. The hair loses its shine, natural elasticity and resilience. It becomes weak, dull, dry and brittle. In fact, chemical lotions disrupt the normal acid-alkaline balance of the scalp too and leave it prone to problems like dandruff. In winter, the hair loses moisture to the atmosphere and all these problems are heightened. Dandruff can also lead to dry hair and split ends, because it hampers the proper distribution of natural oils along each hair shaft.
Some amount of damage is also caused by excessive use of hair dryers, wire brushes and the habitual tying back of the hair tightly. All this can cause enough trauma to the hair, over a period of time. Other causes of hair damage are excessive exposure to the sun and the use of harsh shampoos. The cause of damage in individual cases is not difficult to establish. The first thing to do is to discontinue the procedure till health is restored to the hair. Then, start taking extra care of the hair with conditioning treatments and the use of mild shampoos. Treat the hair very gently. Discontinue the use of brushes and use a wide toothed comb that has smooth edges. When sitting out in the sun, cover the head.
To some extent, the treatment of damaged hair is dependent on the hair type. In cases of excessive dryness, mix one part of castor oil with two parts coconut oil. Heat and apply. Remember to apply on the ends too. Then dip a towel in hot water, squeeze out the water and wrap the hot towel around the head, like a turban. Keep it on for 5 minutes. Repeat the hot towel wrap 3 or 4 times. This helps the hair and scalp absorb the oil better. Avoid vigorous massage and rubbing when you apply oil. Massage the scalp gently, using only the finger tips. Actually move the scalp in small circular movements. This helps to stimulate blood circulation to the follicles. Keep the oil on overnight and wash the hair the next day, using a mild herbal shampoo. Avoid very hot water.
To dry the hair, wrap the towel around the head and allow it to absorb excess water. Comb out the tangles with a wide toothed comb, starting from the ends and working upwards. Avoid pulling or stretching the hair and allow the hair to dry naturally. When you use a hair dryer, hold it at least 10 inches away. Stop using the hair dryer before the hair is totally dry and allow it to dry naturally.
Regular conditioning is extremely important. Hair conditioners and hair serums help to soften the hair and improve its look and texture. They also coat the hair and help to protect it. After shampoo, apply a creamy conditioner, taking less quantity and massaging it lightly into the hair. Apply on the ends too. Leave it on for two minutes and rinse off with plain water. Do not rinse off all the conditioner if the hair is very dry. You can also apply a "leave-on" type of conditioner or hair serum. Apply it the same way, but do not rinse off. Specialized shampoos are also available.

Lip Care

Shahnaz Husain

The mouth and lips, like the eyes, add character to the face. They are the focus of attention when we speak, because they are so much a part of our communication with others. The lips also add balance to the face, along with other facial features like the eyes and the nose. As far as beauty is concerned, appropriate lip make-up can enhance the beauty of the face.
I get many letters asking about the permanent ways of changing the shape of the lips. Surgical methods may be used to change the shape of the lips, but I feel that is rather a drastic step. Make-up can be used to make lips appear the way one wants to. Of course, it there is a defect, like in the case of cleft lips, obviously surgery is the way to correct it. In some cases of injuries or injury scars, surgery may be the only option. People do go in for cosmetic surgery for lip augmentation, to make thin lips look fuller, or to correct the shape of uneven lips, etc. It is more common among people in film or television acting, modeling, etc. All surgical procedures carry some risks and one should acquaint oneself fully with the procedures involved and the possible risks.
The fact remains that the shape and size of the lips cannot be altered with natural methods. As I said, make up can help to conceal defects and shape the lips, so that they are in harmony with the other facial features.
As far as care is concerned, I must mention that the skin of the lips is thin and delicate. It does not contain oil glands. That is why it becomes dry and chaps easily, specially during winter. After washing the face, the lips may be rubbed gently with a soft towel to remove dead skin. Apply cream of milk (malai) daily and leave on for an hour. If the lips become dark, add a few drops of lemon juice to the cream of milk. At night, apply pure almond oil or an almond cream daily on the lips and leave on overnight.
Nutritional deficiencies can also lead to dry, chapped lips. Sometimes, even cracks may develop. Vitamins A, C and B2 are important for the lips. So, foods like citrus fruits, ripe papaya, tomatoes, carrots, green leafy vegetables, nuts, whole-grains, oats, milk products may be included in the diet. Of course, its best to take your doctor's advice before making changes in your diet, specially if you have any medical condition.
Make up tips for Lips
To make thin lips appear fuller, use a lip pencil to draw the lip line a little above and below the upper and lower lips. Then fill in with colour, using a lip brush. The colour of the lip pencil should be only one shade darker than the lipstick. Light colours and gloss also make the lips look fuller.
To make thick lips appear thinner, use the lip pencil to draw the lip staying within the natural lip line. Then fill in with colour with a lip brush. Matte lipsticks suit thick lips. Avoid using glossy lipsticks and pastel shades.
For drooping lips, use the lip pencil to raise the corners of the mouth, by raising the outline slightly upwards at the corners.
If you want a pout, apply lipstick all over the lips, leaving out the centre. Apply a lighter colour along with lip gloss on the centre.

Tips to deal with lip problems
Dry and chapped lips can be due to vitamin deficiency, dry weather, soap and matte lipstick. Have a diet rich in Vitamins A and C. Use glossy lipsticks and lip balm. Avoid matte lipsticks, soap and powder on lips. Remove lipstick with a cleansing gel containing aloe vera. Apply almond cream at night and leave on.
Peeling skin on lips can be due to vitamin deficiencies, neglect of daily care, allergies or illnesses. It is best to consult a doctor about it. Lip balm and almond cream may help.
Cuts in the corners of the mouth can occur after fevers and illness. Consult a doctor about it.
Wrinkles around the mouth can occur due to age, or excessive dryness over a long period of time. Daily application of almond cream will help. Avoid soap, foundation, powder and matte lipsticks on lips.
Discolouration of the lips can occur due to sun-exposure and certain lipsticks. The perfume in some lipsticks cause the lips to darken on sun-exposure due to photosensitivity. Change the brand of lipstick. Look for a lip balm with sunscreen. Or, apply a sunscreen lotion sparingly, wait for ten minutes and then apply lipstick. Apply pure almond oil or almond cream at night.

Shahnaz's Acne Answers

Here are some common questions on acne, which people keep asking. I think the answers will help most people with acne or pimple prone skin.
Why does acne occur?
Acne usually occurs on an oily skin. It is common during adolescence, when the body is going through hormonal activity, which actually activates the oil glands too. However, acne can occur when one is older too, but it is more common during adolescence. Stress can trigger off an acne condition too, as stress has an effect on the adrenal glands, which in turn, leads to excessive secretion of the skin's natural oil. Acne starts with a blackhead. An oily skin is prone to blackheads. Neglected blackheads irritate the surrounding tissues of the skin, resulting in inflammation. This sets the stage for pimples and acne. A single pimple does not mean an acne condition. Also pimples occur on the surface. A pimple may just mean an inflammation, but in acne, there is bacterial activity. An acne condition comprises of many kinds of eruptions, like blackheads, whiteheads, cysts (lumps), pustules and eruptions with pus.
What kind of a beauty routine should you follow to prevent or get rid of acne?
Appropriate cleansing is important for acne, in order to reduce oiliness and check the spread of the condition. However, too much soap and water washing makes the skin too alkaline and leaves it further predisposed to acne. Medicated soap, cleanser or lotion should be used twice a day, morning and night. Actually, night time cleansing is most important. A rose-based skin tonic or astringent lotion should be used after cleansing to wipe the face. It should also be used during the day to refresh the skin. Non-oily day creams or protective creams should be used during the day. For example, we advocate mixing sandalwood cream with a day cream and using it as a daytime protective cover. Oily creams and moisturizers should not be applied. Medicated lotions and preparations must be used if there is acne, to control the condition. At night, after cleansing, an anti-acne lotion should be applied only on the eruptions. If there are marks left behind by acne, an anti-blemish preparation may be used. Night creams or moisturizers should not be used at night on oily skin, or if there is acne. Scrubs and grainy masks should be avoided when there is acne. They may be used after the acne condition has subsided, in order to deal with the scars.
What kind of a diet should someone who has acne follow? Are there any food items to avoid?
Acne points to a congested skin and congested system. Therefore, one should have a diet that helps to cleanse the system and keep it flushed of toxins and wastes. The diet should be high in fibre and rich in vitamins and minerals. The diet should include fresh fruits, raw salads, sprouts, wholegrains, yogurt, fresh fruit juices, clear soups, lassi. A low fat diet would help. One should drink 6 to 8 glasses of water daily and add the juice of a lemon to a glass of water and have it first thing in the morning. A person with acne should avoid fried foods and too many sweets and chocolates.
Are women more prone to acne than men? What is the simple way of preventing acne? If there is acne, will shaving harm the skin?
Actually, men are probably more prone to acne than women. Male skin is thicker than female skin. It is also richer in oil-producing glands and due to this, male skin is oilier and usually has larger pores. Therefore, the pores can get more easily clogged with oil, leading to pimples and acne. If the skin is oily, the effort should be to reduce oiliness. The simple way of preventing acne is to cleanse the skin morning and night with a medicated cleanser or cleansing gel. Rinse with plenty of water. After shaving, wipe the skin with an astringent lotion. An after-shave lotion would also help to prevent infection. If there is any bleeding from an eruption, apply an anti-acne lotion or medicated ointment. If there is no acne, use a facial scrub two or three times a week, applying it on the face and rubbing gently with small circular movements. Wash off with water. This helps to prevent blackheads, which in turn prevents acne.

‘My Personal Monsoon Tips’

Shahnaz Husain

Beauty is not just a question of how you look, but how you feel, and at no time is this more relevant than during the monsoons. The rainy season isn't such a great time for looking or feeling good. Both the skin and hair suffer due to high humidity. Sweat and oil deposits make the skin and hair really dull. So, I always adjust my skin and hair care routine according to the season.

* A flower based skin tonic is ideal. I just can't do without a rose-based skin tonic during hot and humid weather. I keep a small bowl of rose skin tonic in the fridge, with cotton wool pads soaking in it. This way it is chilled and ready for use. One can do this with rose water too, a powerful natural skin toner. I wipe the skin with it several times a day. Rose is a natural coolant and most refreshing. The chilled toner also closes and refines the pores.

* I also use cotton wool pads soaked in the skin tonic as eye pads. It is most relaxing and removes fatigue. Splashing the eyes with cold water also provides great relief. Sometimes, eye fatigue leads to puffiness. For this, I first wash the eyes with cold water and then with lukewarm water and repeat this alternate cold and warm water washing a few times. Sometimes, I soak tea bags in water and then apply them over the eyelids as eye pads. Tea helps to relieve puffiness.

* For a monsoon face mask, mix 3 teaspoons oatmeal with egg white and one teaspoon each of honey and curd. If you don't want to use egg white, add rose water or orange juice. Apply it on the face and wash it off after half an hour. Use it twice a week. Almond meal, or dry and powdered lemon and orange peels can also be added to the face pack.

* Or, you can go for a fruit mask. They are most refreshing during hot and humid weather. You can also add cucumber pulp to the fruit mask, as it has an astringent effect and closes the pores. Ripe papaya pulp can be mixed with grated apple, water melon, pineapple and so on. Papaya and cucumber also help to remove tan. Mango can be most nourishing for dry skin. Apply the mask on the face and wash it off with plain water after half an hour.

* I wash my hair more often during the monsoons. Tea and lemon juice make a wonderful hair rinse, adding shine to the hair. Just boil used tea leaves again, in enough water. Cool, strain, add the juice of a lemon. Use it as a last rinse after shampoo. The juice of a lemon and half a cup of rose water can also be added to a mug of water to make a fragrant last rinse. Sometimes, I apply the white of several eggs before my shampoo, leaving it on for half and hour. This not only gives body to the hair, but is also a wonderful cleanser. My favourite hair conditioner is henna, which is actually very cooling. I add tea water to mix the henna, along with lemon juice, coffee and lots of eggs.

* Soaking the feet in warm or cold water can be most relaxing and also reviving. I add a tablespoon of coarse salt and half a cup of lemon juice to about one-fourth bucket warm water. Sometimes, I add a few drops of tea tree oil to the water. It keeps the feet free from skin problems. I soak my feet in this for half an hour. A cooling foot bath is also a great reviver during hot and humid weather. Add rose water, lemon juice and a splash of eau de cologne in cold water and soak feet in it. Cools, cleans and adds fragrance.

* During the monsoons, the body loses fluids through sweat. I take lots of "nimbu paani" and fresh fruit juices. I also turn to home remedies for small ailments. For sore throat and cough, I find ginger tea most soothing. I add some tender tulsi leaves to it, while it is boiling. Water boiled with just tulsi leaves can also be taken as drink in case of sore throat.

Body Care and luxury baths

Shahnaz Husain

Paying attention to the body, hands and feet and is an important part of grooming. Use your Sunday, or weekly day of rest to catch up with your luxury bath and beauty needs.
Luxury pre-bath massage:
Massage Oil: Make a fragrant body massage oil based on Aromatherapy. It benefits both body and mind, in terms of relieving stress, inducing relaxation or uplifting the mood. A combination of essential oils works wonders. A few drops of essential oil of rose or sandalwood can be added to sesame seed (til) oil. Did you know that the aroma of rose and sandalwood actually help to calm the nerves and induce relaxation? You can also try the following aromatherapy oils:
Add 4 drops each of Cinnamon Oil, Lavender Oil and Rose Oil to 100 ml of pure olive oil. Essential oils should never be used directly on the skin. They must be diluted with pressed oils. This combination works well, as Cinnamon Oil relieves fatigue and muscular tension, while Lavender induces relaxation. Rose oil is said to have a calming effect on the mind. It also improves blood circulation to the skin surface. Olive oil, of course, is ideal as a body massage oil, as it not only nourishes and softens the skin, but restores the normal acid-alkaline balance of the skin. It is also a good carrier oil for essential oils.
Give your arms, legs and body a good massage, paying attention to elbows and knees. Use circular strokes on the shoulders, elbows and wrists. Stroke down the muscles of the inner arms and then upwards on the back of the arms, in a smooth movement. Using the palms of the hands, massage in large circles over the whole front of the body, moving upwards and outwards from the centre. Use circular strokes for the abdomen. Apply oil to the whole leg, stroking upwards. Using both hands, one on the inside and one outside, massage down the front of the legs, from knee to ankle and then upwards at the back of the legs, from ankle to back of knees.
Scrubs for Exfoliation: Scrubs help to remove dead skin cells and stimulate blood circulation to the skin surface. Try sesame seeds, dried mint leaves and honey. They have a remarkably rejuvenating effect on the skin of face and body. Crush the sesame seeds coarsely and powder the dried mint leaves. Mix them with a little honey and apply on the skin. Sesame seeds actually have sun protective properties and also soothe sun-damaged skin. Removes tan and produces an even colour tone. Mint adds a glow to the skin, while honey moisturizes and softens the skin.
Luxury Bath
You can try these bath additives. Some of these can remove fatigue, while others replace oils and moisture, nourish the skin, soothe the skin and even relieve itching. Select one according to your needs. A bath nourishes the skin and leaves your body soft, smooth and perfumed.
Almond Oil: Add one tablespoon almond oil to your bath water for dry skin.
Powdered Milk: Add powdered milk to the bath water for dry skin.
Honey Bath: Add two tablespoons of honey to a bucket of bath water. It is said to induce relaxation and leave your skin soft and moist.
Vinegar: Add two tablespoons of vinegar to relieve itching.
Eau de Cologne: Add a few drops of cologne for a cooling effect and add fragrance.
Rose Oil: Add 2 or 3 drops of essential oil of rose to a bucket of bath water to soothe the nerves and add fragrance.
Sandalwood Oil: Add 2 to 3 drops of sandalwood oil. Also calms the nerves and leaves the body perfumed.
Exotic Mask: To add radiance to the skin, take ripe papaya and cucumber pulp and add half-teaspoon wheatgerm oil and 2 drops of geranium oil, 2 teaspoons oatmeal, one teaspoon almond meal and orange juice. Wheatgerm Oil is a powerful anti oxidant, very rich in Vitamin E. It not only nourishes the skin, but improves the renewal of new skin cells. Geranium Oil adds a sweet natural fragrance to the mask. It has powerful healing and protective properties, helping to detoxify the skin. It also makes the skin smooth and clear. Ripe papaya contains an enzyme called papain, which removes flaking cells on the skin surface and at the same time soothes the skin. Cucumber is a powerful skin toner and tightens the pores. In fact, ripe papaya, cucumber, almond meal and orange juice all help to remove tan and lighten skin colour. Oatmeal forms an ideal base for the mask. It helps to tighten and cleanse the skin. Orange juice also tones the skin. Rose water may be used instead of orange juice.
Miracle Bundle for Bath: An ideal way of using natural ingredients is to tie ingredients in a clean cloth, wet slightly and then rub the cloth bag on the skin. Mix powdered milk, oatmeal, rice powder and rose petals. The ingredients work on your skin, gently cleansing it and leaving it soft, smooth and vibrant. The "bundle of miracles" formula leaves your body naturally perfumed and refreshed, feeling as smooth as silk. It is also known to soothe the body and remove fatigue, bringing about total relaxation and tranquility.

Hair Bleaching

Shahnaz Husain

Hair colouring is the mantra of the day. But, a word of warning! However glamorous it may look, hair colourants, dyes and bleaches can cause hair damage. If dark hair is coloured to a lighter colour, a bleaching process is used first. And then the hair is coloured. This means double the damage, first with the chemical bleach and then with the chemical colourant or dye.
Once the colour wears off, one wants to have it bleached or coloured again. It is this kind of repeated damage that makes the hair brittle and vulnerable to hair breakage and even hair loss. The stronger the bleach and the longer it remains on the hair, it can cause more damage. So, before going in for colouring, it is essential to know what exactly happens when you bleach your hair.
Permanent dyes, colours and bleaches work by changing the structure of the hair. They actually strip off the outermost layer, the cuticle, in an uneven manner, in order to penetrate the inner layer, where they affect the pigment (colouring matter). In bleaching, the pigment is taken away. It is the cuticle which protects the hair and contributes to its shine. Damage to the cuticle not only makes the hair more vulnerable to breakage and loss, but the hair also becomes dull and rough.
It is imperative that when you bleach or colour your hair, you should go to an expert hairdresser, who knows about hair texture and how long the bleach should be left on, depending on the particular hair texture.
Needless to say, bleaching and colouring also affect the scalp. The bleach has to reach right down to the scalp, otherwise the hair will be light with dark roots, which show up in no time. Bleaches contain alkaline substances. Therefore, the normal acid-alkaline balance of the scalp is disrupted. Bleaches are even known to cause allergic reactions, inflammation or redness of the skin on the scalp.
I feel it may be better to go in for natural colours, like browns, as they go better with Indian skin tones, instead of a drastic change of colour, which may entail bleaching.
Avoid having the hair bleached and straightened or permed at the same time. You should wait for about 6 weeks before the next procedure.
Care of the hair after bleaching is very important, to prevent dryness and protect the texture of the hair. In cases of excessive dryness, hot oil therapy helps. Mix one part of castor oil with two parts coconut oil. Heat and apply. Remember to apply on the ends too. Then dip a towel in hot water, squeeze out the water and wrap the hot towel around the head, like a turban. Keep it on for 5 minutes. Repeat the hot towel wrap 3 or 4 times. This helps the hair and scalp absorb the oil better.
Use a mild herbal shampoo to wash the hair. Shampoos containing herbal extracts of amla, reetha, shikakai, brahmi, bhringaraj, bael, help to improve the health and texture of the hair. Wash the hair with lukewarm or cool water. Avoid very hot water. To dry the hair, avoid rubbing with your towel. Instead, wrap it around the head and allow it to absorb excess water. Comb out the tangles with a wide toothed comb, starting from the ends and working upwards. Allow the hair to dry naturally.
After washing the hair, apply a creamy conditioner, massaging it lightly into the hair. Leave on for 2 minutes and then rinse off with water. Or, apply a leave-on type of conditioner or hair serum to soften and disentangle the hair. You can also take hair spa treatments. This entails oil massage, procedures for better absorption, application of hair packs and so on. It helps to improve the texture and adds lustre

Shampoo and Hairstyling

Shahnaz Husain

The first step in hair care is shampoo. Select a mild herbal shampoo, according to your hair type. Rinse the hair very well with water, in order to get rid of all soapy residues. The way you wash and dry the hair are also important.
How often should I wash my hair?
For oily hair and in hot, humid weather, the hair should be washed often. Generally speaking, three or four times a week for oily hair and twice a week for dry hair suits most people. The important aspect to bear in mind is that washing does not harm the hair. What harms the hair is the product you use and quantity of shampoo that is used for each wash. For oily hair and in hot, humid weather, you can even wash the hair daily.
First wet your hair thoroughly. Apply the shampoo and use your fingertips to rub it lightly into the scalp and hair. Work up a lather. Start at the scalp and go downwards. Be gentle with your hair. While washing, run plenty of water through the hair, so that you can get rid of all the soap, along with dirt, dead skin cells and other impurities.
After washing the hair, avoid rubbing with a towel. Wrap your towel around the head for a few minutes to soak up moisture. Avoid brushing wet hair. It can cause the hair to stretch and break. Use a wide toothed comb, to comb out the tangles, starting from the ends and going upwards towards the scalp.
Tips to blow-dry your hair: With a few professional tips, you can use your blow-dryer to set short hair into a style quite easily. It can also give the hair more body and bounce.
* For very short hair, the fingers can be used to push the hair into the style in which it has been cut. For longer hair, you will need a styling brush. Use a brush with soft, natural or plastic bristles.
* The hair should be slightly damp for setting. Divide the hair in sections and hold them back with clips or hair pins. This allows you to work on each section at a time.
* The hair on the top of the head should be lifted upwards with the brush, so that hair gets more body and bounce.
* For layered cuts, the heat should be given across the hair on either side.
* If you like tight curls, wind sections of hair around small rollers, before using the dryer.
* To add fullness, bend forward and brush the hair from the nape of the neck to the ends.
* To add fullness on top of the head, divide the hair on the crown into four sections. Wind them around four large rollers, before drying the hair.
When the hair is totally dry, brush it into the style, so that all the sections have blended together into one.
Hair Straightening with a Blow Dryer:
A temporary method of straightening the hair is with the use of a hand-held hair dryer. When the hair is damp, divide it into sections. Hold each section with a brush, holding it straight and slightly downwards. Dry it with the blow dryer. Do this with each section. The effect lasts till the next shampoo. Hold the dryer at least six inches away from the hair, so that it doesn't dry out the hair.

Wine Facials…Wine Mask Recipes

Shahnaz Husain

Exotic natural ingredients are very much a part of modern skin care. Wine is one of the latest. Recent research has also highlighted the health and beauty benefits of wine. The most popular wine used in skin care is the red grape wine. This is because wine is said to be rich in antioxidants.
Scientific research indicates that age-related degeneration of the body can be retarded by supplying the body with substances that counteract the effects of free radical or oxidation damage. These are the antioxidants. The known antioxidants are Vitamins A, C. and E, some of the B-Complex Vitamins, bioflavinoids, amino acids and minerals like zinc and selenium. Many of these antioxidants are very delicate and are totally or partially destroyed by cooking. Taking just one or two antioxidants does not help. The essential balance of all the nutrients must be maintained. Therefore, there is a strong case in favour of "natural" foods and drinks. Antioxidant rich foods are said to have a rejuvenating effect and have helped to delay ageing and even reverse age-related degeneration of the body.
Wine is rich in antioxidants and contains valuable vitamins and trace elements, which have been known to have a rejuvenating effect on the skin. Grape wine contains polyphenols, a powerful antioxidant. It helps to fight oxidation damage and thus rejuvenates the skin. It also speeds up the cell renewal process, protecting the youthful qualities of the skin. Wine facials and masks, therefore, help to delay the visible signs of ageing.
Wine masks and facials brighten the skin by removing dead cells and stimulating blood circulation to the skin surface. They nourish and moisturize the skin, adding a wonderful glow. The skin becomes softer and the texture improves. Wine masks also help to remove tan and produce an even colour tone over a period of time.
In wine facials in salons, after cleansing and exfoliation, the face is massaged with a mixture of herbs, fruit and vegetable extracts, essential oils and wine. In high-end spas, quality wines are used. Masks containing wine are applied. It is said that the dregs or the sediment at the bottom of wine bottles are also used for masks.
One can also prepare wine masks at home. Take honey and yogurt and add a few tablespoons of red wine. Apply this on the face and leave it on for 20 minutes. Rinse with plain water. This softens and moisturizes the skin, removes tan and also adds a glow.
For an oily skin, mix red wine and green tea with Fuller's Earth (multani mitti) into a paste. Apply on the face, avoiding the lips and area around eyes. Wash it off when it dries.
Wine can also be added to ingredients like lemon and orange peel powder and ground almonds to mix into a mask.
For dry skin, add red wine to aloe vera gel and dried milk powder. Apply on the face and wash it off after 20 minutes.
Wine masks are ideal for adding a glow to the skin. Regular use of wine masks will result in a clear, unblemished skin with radiance. Apart from the usual red wines, one can also try out spicy wines, like fennel wine, or fruit wines containing oranges, cherries or strawberries.
Somewhere within the living cell is locked the fascinating mystery of the aging process. Till we find the key to this, I believe that appropriate external care is an important way of preserving youth and beauty. Weekly professional facials go a long way in rejuvenating the skin and making it look youthful.