Eye make-up

Shahnaz Husain
Eye shadow is an important part of eye make-up, because it helps to re-contour the eyes and add emphasis. You can soften your look, or make it dramatic or glamorous. To get the best results, find the colours that suit you and areas that need contouring. Remember that blending is of utmost importance.
Eye shadows come in liquid, cream or powder form. The pressed powder ones are more popular, as they are easier to apply and blend. Pressed powder shadows are applied with sponge-tipped applicators and blended with brushes. Cream shadows may be applied with finger tips and blended with a sponge. Nowadays, pencil shadows are also available. If you use liquid or creamy eye shadow, stick to one or two colours. Allow one colour to dry before applying the next. Ensure that it does not collect at the crease of the eyes.
Pearly or shiny shadows are used for highlighting or for creating a shimmering effect. Or, go for matte shadows, to create a more natural effect or to play down. Some eye shadows even provide glitter for gala occasions.
A flat-tipped square brush helps to apply eye shadow for the overall color. To apply highlighter on the brow bone, a brush with a slight slant helps. Sponge applicators are useful for applying and blending eye shadow. Actually, they are also great for making lines softer and can be used to smudge eyeliner after application for the smoky effect. They are mostly double-tipped, with sponges on both sides of the applicator.
Eyeliner helps to define the eyes. Liquid eyeliner has been popular for decades, but now different kinds of eyeliners are available. Gel eyeliner, is very new. It is thicker and applied with an angled brush. While eye pencils are hard, kohl liners or “kaajal” are softer and easier to apply.
For the day, line your eyelids with matte brown or gray eye shadow for a softer effect. For a daytime gala occasion, apply a light colour shadow like mauve, or light brown over the entire eyelid. Then use dull gold or silver shadow on the upper lid closer to the lashes and also to highlight under the brows.
For night-time glamour, use brown, bronze and gold eye shadow. Apply dark brown eye shadow in the crease of the lids, to add depth. Highlight under the brows with gold. Outline the eyes with dark eyeliner. Apply it on the upper lid, close to the lashes and smudge with a cotton bud. Gently blend a line of kohl or eye pencil on the lower lid.
If you wish to achieve the winged eyed look, which is in fashion, first apply a light shadow over the eyelid and a dark one in the crease of the eyes. Light grey on the eyelid would look glamorous. Apply a thick line of black eye liner close to the lashes on the upper lid. A useful tip is to smudge the liner and then apply it again. Extend the liner outwards and slightly upwards, beyond the outer corner of the eyes. Use plenty of mascara. In fact, black shadow on the outer corners of the eyes can also help to achieve the same look. If you join it with the crease line, it is easier to create the winged eyes look. For the lower lid, apply liner as close to the lower lashes as possible, but start from the middle of the lower eyelid and take the line towards the outer eyes. Apply lots of mascara.
Or, go for the smoky eyes look. After applying eye shadow, apply eye liner close to the lashes on upper eyelid. Then smudge with sponge-tipped applicator. Apply dark shadow over it and blend it outwards and slightly upwards. Apply liner just below lower lashes, smudge it and then apply eye shadow.
For contouring, remember that light colours highlight, while dark colours make the area recede. Work with four shades of eye shadow – from a neutral base colour, main colour, darker shade for emphasizing and light colour for highlighting. To make eyes look bigger, use the darker colour in the crease of the socket and the upper part of the lid. Use a lighter tone on the eyelid. Highlight under the brows.

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